any takers on how long this will hold a seal? this spot rusted through on my project rig, I used JB weld to temporarily seal it so I can still move the rig around. I just filled it up with 80w-90 after two days of letting the weld cure. Holding a seal so far.


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Doesn’t get that hot there so it will hold for awhile. I tried using that on a slight crack on my rad and didn’t even last a day


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Weeks to months. Seen JB Weld do amazing things when not under too much stress or heat.

i to have used it to repair things with surprising success, but have never used it as a sealant.


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Jb weld on your axle housing...3 to 4 years tops. Then it will crack and start leaking again ...I can verify this in western PA type climate.

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I wouldn't worry about it for at least a year if you prepped it properly. It sounds like you let it fully cure before re-filling it so it sounds fine.

Hopefully it'll last like a Tootsie Roll...a long, long time.

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I could not look away from your undercarriage. It is in such stark contrast to mine. Silly I know, but I'd be afraid to drive that thing.....way to spoiled by rust free cars out here.

My diff is all shiny cuz I changed the gear oil a couple weeks ago, otherwise it'd be way dirtier.


Eddie

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His undercarriage is mint compared to some around here, I’m at the point where I’m almost afraid to get into a vehicle without at least 3 frame patches, just doesn’t seem right

If it does fail, try cleaning up the rusted area with a brush wheel to get shiny metal again. Then apply a liberal amount. Epoxy-based sealants can last a very, very long time if done right. They cannot seal large gaps though because it can't flex.

I used to have an '87 first gen 4Runner. I used JB weld on one of the hard fuel lines coming out of the top of the gas tank. The particular fuel line was rusty and had a small leak. I cleaned up the line, released the pressure, and essentially wrapped the area with JB weld. It lasted for years until the entire frame rusted away at the rear of the truck.

JB Weld can do some amazing stuff, but don't believe everything on the packaging. I wouldn't try to glue a split crankcase or tractor blade back together with it, like the packaging might lead you to believe is possible.

The extremely important key to having it work is in the preparation. All, with emphasis on the word ALL oil and contaminants must be removed from the gluing surface. Especially any kind of oil. Use alcohol, acetone, lacquer thinner, brake cleaner, etc., for that. And if the metal is smooth, it must be roughened (with sandpaper, a grinder, wire brush, etc.). Mix the JB Weld 50/50, thoroughly, make the repair, then let it set there, unmolested, for at least 24 hours. Do not let anything move during that time.

Just like with 5-minute epoxy, JB Quick Weld is equally worthless. The longer an epoxy takes to cure, the stronger it will be. Quick setting epoxy is vastly weaker. Always use the regular JB Weld, instead of the quick junk.

OP - if you prepped it like I described, and let it cure sufficiently long enough, then I bet it will hold for a while. If you didn't, then it probably won't.

In my hobbies (r/c models, guns, general workshop stuff) and DIY repairs around the house, I use all kinds of adhesives, so I get intimately familiar with how well they do or don't work.

Cleaning the exterior of a leaking diff seems difficult. The solvents used would just bleed in oil from the surrounding area.

JB weld is just epoxy with metal powder or other powder. It’s probably a poor choice for the task at hand. It’s fairly brittle and not liquid enough to soak in well.
You’d probably be better off with a more flexible epoxy and fiberglass mat, or some other fiber additive.
I like West systems G-flex epoxy.

I hit it with a rough flap wheel followed by a couple rounds of degreaser. This was right after I started poking away with my pick hammer. I thought my 3rd member seal was leaking.... nope. It was just a pin hole size and then the hammer broke through a couple times and enlarged it.


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Found this guy at the local yard, the housing was in the same condition as mine so not worth the hassle but I wouldn’t mine trying to clean up that 3rd member. 5spd rigs with elockers are essentially non existent so would be fun to add one.


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Just buy an e-locker 3rd from the west coast. They are usually in the $500-600 range.