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Old 06-19-2020, 07:25 PM #16
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Originally Posted by VernySanders View Post
My loyalty lies with my 3rd gen for the rest of my life. I'm only 24 so I have many years left with this truck as long as it doesnt get in a fatal wreck. So getting a different truck isn't in my cards unless I just wanted a second third gen. I think my next vehicle will be a 1st gen tundra, weld a custom bed, use the bulletproof 4.7 to tow my 3rd gen to the dunes and back
Sound just like me, cheers to driving it into the ground. I've even been toying with the idea of importing a Surf in a few more years, myself
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Old 06-20-2020, 09:12 AM #17
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Sound just like me, cheers to driving it into the ground. I've even been toying with the idea of importing a Surf in a few more years, myself
The vehicle I would import for certain from Japan would be an 80 Series Land Cruiser. In my mind they look very close to a 3rd gen 4runner and most of them out there are diesel.

2000 SR5 Auto Swap to 2000 SR5 Manual-80series-jpg

At least when they look like this I think they resemble a larger 3rd gen.
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The dunes got boring because I couldn't jump. I'm not the type to enjoy someone else's vehicle. So i'm in the process of making making the dunes no longer boring. I guess that involves jumping.... A lot.
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Old 06-22-2020, 06:58 AM #18
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Originally Posted by Team_Jake View Post
Since the 2000 M/T ECU has the same pin connectors as the A/T ECU, I'd say it's easier to keep your harness and re-wire your park/neutral switch wires. The wiring is as follows:



I'm not sure what year the diagram is for, the pin positions and wire colors change every year so if you have an EWD just route the appropriate wires as shown. That's what I did.
If I do this, should I just ziptie the unused connectors that used to plug into the auto?
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The dunes got boring because I couldn't jump. I'm not the type to enjoy someone else's vehicle. So i'm in the process of making making the dunes no longer boring. I guess that involves jumping.... A lot.

Last edited by VernySanders; 06-22-2020 at 07:15 AM.
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Old 06-22-2020, 08:51 AM #19
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Run the connections for the clutch switch where the engine harness comes through the firewall. For the reverse all you need is the reverse light wire in the park/neutral switch run to the reverse switch on the 5 speed. I am not sure if it is a powered switch or just a ground switch so you might need the power wire also depending
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Old 06-22-2020, 07:58 PM #20
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Originally Posted by St Runner View Post
Run the connections for the clutch switch where the engine harness comes through the firewall. For the reverse all you need is the reverse light wire in the park/neutral switch run to the reverse switch on the 5 speed. I am not sure if it is a powered switch or just a ground switch so you might need the power wire also depending
I appreciate it, im assuming that the clutch switch your referring too is one of the two connectors on the clutch pedal assembly themselves? Ive got two electrical connectors with two wires that go to them. Im going to need to reference the wiring diagrams before I really dig into this. If worst comes to worst ill just swap the harness. A couple days ago when I had dropped the trans it felt like a ton of extra work to swap the harness as well but now Im thinking its probably foolproof and will only take me a maximum of two hours
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Old 06-22-2020, 09:46 PM #21
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Yes, the clutch switch at the bottom of the clutch is for the starting circuit. the one at the top is for the cruise control. In the auto (all of this is in a 97 I am assuming the 2000 is the same) the starting circuit runs to the park /neutral switch. Wether you put in the 5speed engine harness or not you will still have run a wire from where the starting circuit went to the park/neutral switch over to where the clutch is since there is nothing there in your 4runner. It is a simple ground wire, meaning all the switch does is complete the ground so that the circuit is active. You can ground that starting circuit wire anywhere on the body and your 4runner will start whenever you turn the key
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Old 06-23-2020, 01:55 AM #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Team_Jake View Post
Since the 2000 M/T ECU has the same pin connectors as the A/T ECU, I'd say it's easier to keep your harness and re-wire your park/neutral switch wires. The wiring is as follows:



I'm not sure what year the diagram is for, the pin positions and wire colors change every year so if you have an EWD just route the appropriate wires as shown. That's what I did.
Yes very easy, thatís what I did on mine with the exception of the clutch depress switch.
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Old 06-24-2020, 05:28 PM #23
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Originally Posted by anniesball72 View Post
Yes very easy, thatís what I did on mine with the exception of the clutch depress switch.
do you have any pictures of your wiring?
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Old 06-24-2020, 05:31 PM #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by St Runner View Post
Yes, the clutch switch at the bottom of the clutch is for the starting circuit. the one at the top is for the cruise control. In the auto (all of this is in a 97 I am assuming the 2000 is the same) the starting circuit runs to the park /neutral switch. Wether you put in the 5speed engine harness or not you will still have run a wire from where the starting circuit went to the park/neutral switch over to where the clutch is since there is nothing there in your 4runner. It is a simple ground wire, meaning all the switch does is complete the ground so that the circuit is active. You can ground that starting circuit wire anywhere on the body and your 4runner will start whenever you turn the key
Lol I wish I understood any of this. I get the clutch stuff but not the additional information. Is there any writeups out there that go more into depth with this?
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Old 06-24-2020, 06:29 PM #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VernySanders View Post
Lol I wish I understood any of this. I get the clutch stuff but not the additional information. Is there any writeups out there that go more into depth with this?
I think what heís saying is there is a wire that needs to be grounded to complete the starting circuit in order for the vehicle to start, currently that wire is in your neutral safety switch wiring that goes to your auto trans, so the wire is only grounded in park or neutral, which is why you canít start your vehicle in drive.

If you keep the auto harness, you will need to get that wire and run it to your clutch depress switch, and then another wire from the switch to a ground point, or you could just directly ground the wire and bypass the switch, allowing the vehicle to start at any time without needing to depress the clutch.

If you do end up swapping harnesses, that same wire will be found in a plug behind the glove box next to the ecu, it should be the white plug that the engine harness connects to
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Old 06-24-2020, 11:31 PM #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VernySanders View Post
do you have any pictures of your wiring?
I donít, I had my mechanic do it, but I know they jumpered it right at the transmission connector by pushing the pins and soldering.

The cable was tied to the frame with cable ties.

I had no choice as I have a 2002, there is not a manual harness to use...

I like not having the clutch part of the starting circuit so I can start the vehicle without getting in it.
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Old 06-25-2020, 07:36 AM #27
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Originally Posted by RandyBobandy View Post
I think what he’s saying is there is a wire that needs to be grounded to complete the starting circuit in order for the vehicle to start, currently that wire is in your neutral safety switch wiring that goes to your auto trans, so the wire is only grounded in park or neutral, which is why you can’t start your vehicle in drive.

If you keep the auto harness, you will need to get that wire and run it to your clutch depress switch, and then another wire from the switch to a ground point, or you could just directly ground the wire and bypass the switch, allowing the vehicle to start at any time without needing to depress the clutch.

If you do end up swapping harnesses, that same wire will be found in a plug behind the glove box next to the ecu, it should be the white plug that the engine harness connects to
Okay, this is a HUGE help! So let me get this straight, if my manual ECU really is compatible with the auto harness as stated previously in this thread, then theoretically this is the only wire i'd need to run in order to get the vehicle to start and run? At some point I want to wire everything in factory, but if this will get me going before the 4th of July then im an extremely happy camper.

EDIT: Were there specific pins you put on the end of your wires?
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The dunes got boring because I couldn't jump. I'm not the type to enjoy someone else's vehicle. So i'm in the process of making making the dunes no longer boring. I guess that involves jumping.... A lot.
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Old 06-25-2020, 10:13 AM #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VernySanders View Post
Okay, this is a HUGE help! So let me get this straight, if my manual ECU really is compatible with the auto harness as stated previously in this thread, then theoretically this is the only wire i'd need to run in order to get the vehicle to start and run? At some point I want to wire everything in factory, but if this will get me going before the 4th of July then im an extremely happy camper.

EDIT: Were there specific pins you put on the end of your wires?
Yes the manual ECM is 100% compatible with the auto harness. In my case I had to use a 2003-2004 Manual 4x4 ECM for my truck. Again there were no 2001-2002 manual ECM’s.

The function of the auto trans connector is no longer needed. You can take it apart or cut wires off the back and splice them at the cable end or up closer to the ECM if you want it to be more weather proof. They sell harness kits for modifying the wiring outside the ECM. That may be the cleanest....?

Yes just wire per that drawing. That’s what I used to figure it out.

Actually you need to jumper 6 to 9 and 7 to 3. You need to run 7 to 3 through the clutch release switch to have cruise.
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Last edited by anniesball72; 06-25-2020 at 10:16 AM.
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Old 06-25-2020, 12:16 PM #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VernySanders View Post
So let me get this straight, if my manual ECU really is compatible with the auto harness as stated previously in this thread, then theoretically this is the only wire i'd need to run in order to get the vehicle to start and run?

...

Were there specific pins you put on the end of your wires?
Your auto harness is compatible with your manual ECU.

If you only want to get your 4Runner driving, all you need to do is connect pins 5 & 6 together from your auto park/neutral connector.



The CORRECT way to do this is to run these wires to your clutch depress switch (plus wire the clutch release switch for cruise control, clutch start cancel switch, and reverse lights), but if you just want to start and run, all you need to do is cut these two wires before the park/neutral switch and connect them together, easy as that.

Note: these pin connector numbers are straight from my Toyota EWD book and do not match the diagram I posted earlier (I did not make that diagram, I copied it from another thread).
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Old 06-25-2020, 03:37 PM #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VernySanders View Post
Okay, this is a HUGE help! So let me get this straight, if my manual ECU really is compatible with the auto harness as stated previously in this thread, then theoretically this is the only wire i'd need to run in order to get the vehicle to start and run? At some point I want to wire everything in factory, but if this will get me going before the 4th of July then im an extremely happy camper.

EDIT: Were there specific pins you put on the end of your wires?
You can make it even easier if you just want to get it running for a test drive and take the neutral safety switch off of your automatic and plug it into the harness, then just turn the rotating piece all the way to one side like it would be if it was in park, thatís how I did it with mine before doing all the wiring

I didnít use any specific pins because I had the pigtail connectors from all the switches and just spliced the wires into them
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