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Old 06-19-2020, 07:00 PM #16
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Probably checked already but are grounds under hood good/solid?

ECU maybe?
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Old 06-19-2020, 07:06 PM #17
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Quote:
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Probably checked already but are grounds under hood good/solid?

ECU maybe?
Grounds are good under the hood.
ECU I have no idea about. I would have to try to find a replacement and Im sure that won't be fun
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Old 06-19-2020, 07:15 PM #18
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Well it's probably less expensive to replace the fuel pump vs. the ECU. The ECU is last on the list of causes of missing in the FSM. Luck.
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Old 06-19-2020, 07:28 PM #19
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Probably checked already but are grounds under hood good/solid?

ECU maybe?
Good point as a bad ground can cause all sorts of weird stuff.
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Old 06-19-2020, 07:29 PM #20
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Quote:
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Well it's probably less expensive to replace the fuel pump vs. the ECU. The ECU is last on the list of causes of missing in the FSM. Luck.
With 200K might be well worth just getting a fuel pump. At this point Ill try pretty much anything.
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Old 06-19-2020, 09:33 PM #21
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Gauge is not long enough for me to see I don't think. I could take the hood off and drive around I suppose. I bet a good scan tool might be able to see fuel pressure.



At this point Ill drop the tank if thats what it takes
I dont think there are any sensors reading the fuel pressure on 3rd gens. However, I maybe wrong.

I just wanted to verify the pressure was dropping to crap when stalls and runs incorrectly.



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Old 06-19-2020, 10:28 PM #22
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Is there a way to test the MAF ? I cleaned it twice in 3 months just to make sure. How can I test to see if it is failing after a heat cycle ?
Im looking at anything I can check to confirm Im on the right path.

Fuel pressure I will do while running if I can figure out a safe way to do it with my limited tools.

Really no warning on the stall comes out of no where.

Only when warm engine never cold.
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Old 06-20-2020, 10:13 AM #23
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Really no warning on the stall comes out of no where.

Only when warm engine never cold.
Almost sounds like vapor lock but I have never heard of that being an issue on these trucks.
Intermittent problems like this can be really frustrating to deal with. Keep the faith!
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Old 06-20-2020, 11:08 AM #24
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Quote:
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Is there a way to test the MAF ? I cleaned it twice in 3 months just to make sure. How can I test to see if it is failing after a heat cycle ?
Im looking at anything I can check to confirm Im on the right path.

Fuel pressure I will do while running if I can figure out a safe way to do it with my limited tools.

Really no warning on the stall comes out of no where.

Only when warm engine never cold.
When you clean the MAF there is more than one area to clean, this is not immediately known when you take it out and look at it. When you take off the MAF the one hard wire with the "bulb" on it is easily seen. However if you look down inside the small tube there are another 2 small wires way in there. Look with a flashlight. Those are the two wires you have to spray and make sure they are clean. I recently picked up as 4Runner that was not running right and this solved the problem....score.
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Old 06-29-2020, 05:24 PM #25
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So I parked the 4runner in the back yard and it only gets attention when I get extra time.

Today I pulled codes pending misfire 1-2-6
No engine light. Then the codes go away after the truck gets warmed up. Probably my scanner sucks.

But I did notice something odd. The battery voltage was low. I recently changed the battery because one of the kids left the door open and the old battery wouldn't charge overnight.

I test the alternator with my tester and Im only getting 13-13.3 volts at the battery. I test the alternator with a Dayton battery tester that can check charging systems. 13 or so volts.

With that said, can the low voltage only cause intermittent misfires??
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Old 07-03-2020, 08:54 PM #26
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So question is what is the typical output of a stock alternator ? Voltage reading through dash scan was 11.8-13 volts. Im guessing that is what the computer is seeing not not so sure its correct though the app. Voltage reading at the battery at idle is 13-13.3 volts.

I highly doubt this is related to my misfire.
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Old 07-03-2020, 10:47 PM #27
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You really need to be seeing at least 13.3. A remanned one out of the box at a cold start should be 14.2~14.4 volts.
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Old 07-04-2020, 06:36 AM #28
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You really need to be seeing at least 13.3. A remanned one out of the box at a cold start should be 14.2~14.4 volts.
I have always thought alternators should put out at least 14 volts. Thats why 13 volts concered me. What caught my eye is in the dash scan it was seeing 11.8
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Old 07-04-2020, 08:28 AM #29
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Did a little test this morning cold start. Alternator putting out 14.2 volts.

Going to run it with tester hooked up and Im sure once hot numbers will change.

Coincidently all of my issues are only once it gets nice and warm on the misfires. Not saying the alternator is to blame but its not helping the situation either.
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Old 07-04-2020, 06:23 PM #30
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Quote:
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Did a little test this morning cold start. Alternator putting out 14.2 volts.



Going to run it with tester hooked up and Im sure once hot numbers will change.



Coincidently all of my issues are only once it gets nice and warm on the misfires. Not saying the alternator is to blame but its not helping the situation either.
I seem alternators flake out when hot or cold. Mostly hot because metal expands when it gets hot. May not be the issue but be great to rule it out. ;)

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