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Old 06-18-2020, 05:01 PM #1
ATX3rdGen ATX3rdGen is offline
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Lean Bank 1 with Supercharger? Solved

Thought I would share in the event anyone else runs into a similar problem. After the 4WD conversion I finished up the rest of the parts including TRD headers, some new PCed valve covers, VCG etc. Also coated the supercharger, which is a gen 1 that I rebuild two years ago.

Take everything out for a few shake down runs and after a few miles, bam, CEL. This is odd for me as I have replaced everything possibly damn near it with OEM bits and I have pulled that blower probably 20 times or more. I know I didn't miss anything. Pull codes and I am tossing a lean bank 1... SOB. I have a 7th injector and usually run slightly rich.

So.....

- New O2 sensors front and rear
- New OEM MAF was installed a few weeks ago
- Said screw it and tossed in a spare Walbro 450 from my turbo beemer
- Another new TB gasket
- New OEM plug wires
- New plugs
- All vac lines are new and sealed

I finally decided to just check everywhere a vac line terminated. First thing I check is the bypass valve. Remember how I said I rebuilt the blow? Well I did it all aside from the bypass solenoid. Immediately I realize it has NO seal, the diaphragm blew. Quick bypass and the truck is better than even. Jump on Jon Bond, little next day air and BAM. Back in action and better than ever.

Hope this helps someone!
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Old 06-18-2020, 08:31 PM #2
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A Walbro 450? Man, that fuel return line is probably shooting out like a fire hose!
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Old 06-19-2020, 12:42 AM #3
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Looks like a radiator should be on your short list.
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Old 06-19-2020, 02:58 AM #4
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I'll second that motion, replace that rad stat!
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Old 07-04-2020, 01:50 PM #5
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I am a BMW N54 guy as well, lol. I had a few new ones sitting on a shelf and said to hell with it, but yeah I should probably drop in a smaller pump. No issues so far, I was surprised the fuse did not pop.

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A Walbro 450? Man, that fuel return line is probably shooting out like a fire hose!
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Old 07-04-2020, 01:53 PM #6
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I know, I have done so much work to the truck and keep forgetting to order a new one. Aluminum rad and timing belt service are last on the list. I can't believe the rad is still solid. PS cooling is bypassed but I run this thing hard in Texas heat, 11 PSI and no issues with cooling... it's coming

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Looks like a radiator should be on your short list.
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I'll second that motion, replace that rad stat!
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Old 07-04-2020, 02:28 PM #7
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I know, I have done so much work to the truck and keep forgetting to order a new one. Aluminum rad and timing belt service are last on the list. I can't believe the rad is still solid. PS cooling is bypassed but I run this thing hard in Texas heat, 11 PSI and no issues with cooling... it's coming
If it helps at all, I'm still on the stock radiator that's been replaced once. I am in the sweltering Sacramento heat that rivals what you get in Texas, our temps between June - September go from 90 - 105 on a normal day. We had 108 last week. TRD 170 degree thermostat and a water wetter product (Royal Purple Ice) keep my temps below 200 all the time, even with A/C in city driving.

But an all aluminum larger radiator definitely would also be a good choice. Just providing a cheaper alternative.
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Old 07-06-2020, 09:01 PM #8
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I have a 1st gen supercharger also. What did you use to seal the bypass solenoid? I'm always curious how this doesn't leak more...


Quote:
Originally Posted by ATX3rdGen View Post
Thought I would share in the event anyone else runs into a similar problem. After the 4WD conversion I finished up the rest of the parts including TRD headers, some new PCed valve covers, VCG etc. Also coated the supercharger, which is a gen 1 that I rebuild two years ago.

Take everything out for a few shake down runs and after a few miles, bam, CEL. This is odd for me as I have replaced everything possibly damn near it with OEM bits and I have pulled that blower probably 20 times or more. I know I didn't miss anything. Pull codes and I am tossing a lean bank 1... SOB. I have a 7th injector and usually run slightly rich.

So.....

- New O2 sensors front and rear
- New OEM MAF was installed a few weeks ago
- Said screw it and tossed in a spare Walbro 450 from my turbo beemer
- Another new TB gasket
- New OEM plug wires
- New plugs
- All vac lines are new and sealed

I finally decided to just check everywhere a vac line terminated. First thing I check is the bypass valve. Remember how I said I rebuilt the blow? Well I did it all aside from the bypass solenoid. Immediately I realize it has NO seal, the diaphragm blew. Quick bypass and the truck is better than even. Jump on Jon Bond, little next day air and BAM. Back in action and better than ever.

Hope this helps someone!
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Old 07-24-2020, 01:31 PM #9
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I am also a BMW guy so I am cracking up that this thing has lasted so long. I went ahead and pulled the trigger on a Koyorad last night.

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If it helps at all, I'm still on the stock radiator that's been replaced once. I am in the sweltering Sacramento heat that rivals what you get in Texas, our temps between June - September go from 90 - 105 on a normal day. We had 108 last week. TRD 170 degree thermostat and a water wetter product (Royal Purple Ice) keep my temps below 200 all the time, even with A/C in city driving.

But an all aluminum larger radiator definitely would also be a good choice. Just providing a cheaper alternative.
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Old 07-24-2020, 01:37 PM #10
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When I got mine it was caked with orange RTV. My first thought was "There has to be some kind of sealing method way better than this...". My trick has been to clean the joints of all sealant and run the Job Bond o-rings lubed with some oil.

I agree it is a weird design as the elbow "floats" but one it sees pressure it basically sets the o-rings.

Bypass O-ring set – Jon Bond Performance LLC

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I have a 1st gen supercharger also. What did you use to seal the bypass solenoid? I'm always curious how this doesn't leak more...
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Old 07-25-2020, 11:14 AM #11
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Thanks for the info
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Old 10-26-2021, 09:58 PM #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ATX3rdGen View Post
When I got mine it was caked with orange RTV. My first thought was "There has to be some kind of sealing method way better than this...". My trick has been to clean the joints of all sealant and run the Job Bond o-rings lubed with some oil.

I agree it is a weird design as the elbow "floats" but one it sees pressure it basically sets the o-rings.

Bypass O-ring set – Jon Bond Performance LLC
This seems to be my issue as well. Ordering those o rings right now.

did you replace only the orings or anything else?
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