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Old 06-26-2020, 01:22 AM #1
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Fan Clutch Replacement

The fan clutch on my 1997 T4R has locked up (making lots of noise all the time) and while it looks easy enough to change out, I do note one thing that is confusing me (easy enough to do!)...

Some photos and videos show one just removing the 4 flange head nuts and then pulling out the old unit and then after putting the fan blades on the new clutch simply bolting it back in place.

Other photos however show the fan pulley being pulled off center by the belt as the clutch assembly is removed.

Does that always happen, or is it just the luck of the draw? Should I loosen the belt first before removing the clutch? Given that it is hot this time of the year here in Phoenix AZ I'd like to get it done as quickly as possible .

Thanks!

Ted
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Old 06-26-2020, 01:46 AM #2
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Here is my own brief how-to:

1998 3.4 Auto 4Runner, Overheating Issue, Suggestions? - Page 4 - YotaTech Forums

I'd say having it collapse, as it did for me, is more likely than not. You have to root for rust and corrosion to stand up to the pressure of the Power Steering belt and Alt belt. To increase your chances, put the nuts back on the fan pulley studs hand-tight as soon as you get the fan off if it is still together. Mine took a while before it popped off.

I don't see the point of loosening the belts. That's all you need to do if it does pull apart, so you really haven't saved yourself any work. If you go ahead and take the chance it won't pull apart, you really haven't lost anything and you might luck out.
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Old 06-26-2020, 01:53 AM #3
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I don't know if this is one of the videos you watched already, but if not, I hope it helps you out. What I have learned from taking the fan clutch off several motors is the flange of the clutch can get a bit locked onto the studs. If you're having trouble getting the nuts loose, you need to use a small pry bar or large screwdriver and wedge it between two of the neighboring nuts to hold the clutch steady while you break one of them free. Then you rotate the engine clockwise (getting onto the crank pulley bolt with a 19mm socket works well for this) and turn the engine until you have the next nut in the position your want it and repeat these steps until you have all 4 nuts loose. If the clutch isn't coming off the studs, you need to rock the clutch back and forth while pulling towards the radiator. Just be careful that you don't ram the fan into the radiator once it comes free. So brace yourself and be ready for it to pop off. Good luck!

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Old 06-26-2020, 02:49 PM #4
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Thanks for the info guys! It was Durk's photo that I saw with the cock-eyed pulley that had me concerned, and I did sort of watch the Timmy the Toolman's video, but hand held jerky video actually makes me nauseated . No big deal to loosen the PS belt if necessary.

The clutch and the long 12/14mm wrench will be delivered today by Amazon and on my next day off from work I will do the work. Too bad the fan clutch wasn't bad last year when I swapped out the radiator....stuff happens.

Thanks again and I will post the results after I change it out.

Ted
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Old 06-30-2020, 04:24 PM #5
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I got the new clutch from Amazon and I am wondering if it is defective or not...it turns as stiff as the old one does. Shouldn't it be free wheeling when cold as inside the house? Just wondering, or maybe I am being paranoid?

I am off work Saturday so I will attempt the change out then.

Thanks again!

Ted
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Old 06-30-2020, 07:14 PM #6
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Stiff is relative. The fan should run full speed for 30 seconds or more after the engine is started before settling down, even on a 100% working fan clutch.

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Old 06-30-2020, 09:51 PM #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acr_ted View Post
I got the new clutch from Amazon and I am wondering if it is defective or not...it turns as stiff as the old one does. Shouldn't it be free wheeling when cold as inside the house? Just wondering, or maybe I am being paranoid?

I am off work Saturday so I will attempt the change out then.

Thanks again!

Ted
I installed an Aisin branded fan clutch model FCT-013 in my T100 about a month ago and I can confirm it was stiff and had resistance out of the box.
It made a huge difference as no more freight train sound once Installed.
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Old 07-01-2020, 10:26 AM #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acr_ted View Post
I got the new clutch from Amazon and I am wondering if it is defective or not...it turns as stiff as the old one does. Shouldn't it be free wheeling when cold as inside the house? Just wondering, or maybe I am being paranoid?

I am off work Saturday so I will attempt the change out then.

Thanks again!

Ted
If you read the post I linked to in my post above, you will see I had the same experience. The dead one and the new one had the same cold resistance to turning, but the new one fixed the problem. It should be stiff cold, because it is not spinning and fluid has collected at the bottom where it partially locks the clutch. When it starts to spin, the fluid moves to the center to free up the clutch. This causes the brief "take-off" noise on start-up.

YouTube
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Old 07-14-2020, 01:03 PM #9
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Sorry for the late reply - work has been very busy lately .

For whatever reason the old fan clutch is now working again and account we have been setting records for heat here in the Phoenix area I am going to wait until it cools off (or the old one stops working again) before changing it out.

Thanks again,

Ted
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Old 07-14-2020, 09:39 PM #10
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Just bear in mind that it may go from being locked up to working fine now to completely failed and freewheeling which will cause an overheat while running sitting still stopped in traffic or pulling over to take a call and sitting there with the A/C on especially in that Arizona heat.
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