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Old 07-13-2020, 12:49 PM #16
AnotherCO4Runner AnotherCO4Runner is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VincentGsrq View Post
When I started to evaluate my AC my plan was to install only what had to be replaced. The system was not leaking at all but it needed a new compressor. In the end I changed tactics and decided I only wanted to do the job once (hopefully) and I replaced all of the components with OEM parts including the low limit switch, the compressor is the most expensive component and most people say if you replace the compressor you must do the condenser and drier as well. Once you have the evaporator out, it and the expansion valve are together labor wise. I also replaced the idler pulley and of course the drive belt. Factory shop manuals outline a different procedure for recharging the system as they have different equipment than just cans of r134a and a vacuum pump. I would recommend draining and measuring the pag-46 oil from the new (mine was a Denso) compressor and then add back into it the total volume of oil for all of the components being replaced as well as a small amount of dye. Two things I want to mention regarding recharging the system, I used a CPS 2-stage pump and it would only pull just over 28 on my gauges (Mastercool) and not 30, I left it on vacuum for almost 2 hours and then disconnected it and waited almost another two hours before starting to recharge after no loss of vacuum at all. What a lot of the videos don't tell you is how long it takes to add all of the refrigerant to the system, many do show the can position, as in don't shake or turn upside down. I used a scale and a sharpie to measure how much I had put in and tried to get it in between the specs. This had been my 1st time doing AC repair and this site and you tube were invaluable in getting it done.
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Originally Posted by Bad Luck View Post
I see that your signature says you're in Denver, Colorado. At that elevation 25 inches of mercury vacuum is about as good as you're going to get.
I’m having an issue with charging. The low pressure gauge is about 60/65 and holding, the can of refrigerant is not losing weight.

What could be obstructing things?
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Old 07-13-2020, 02:19 PM #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AnotherCO4Runner View Post
I’m having an issue with charging. The low pressure gauge is about 60/65 and holding, the can of refrigerant is not losing weight.

What could be obstructing things?
Are you charging on the low or high side? Is that the pressure reading with the ac on or off?
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Old 07-13-2020, 02:21 PM #18
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Assuming that you had pulled vacuum on the system, when you initially open the valve to introduce the refrigerant, it should have pulled much of the can in immediately. Usually that's enough to engage the compressor and draw in the rest of the can. You may need to apply 12 volts to the compressor wire in order to engage the clutch and draw in the refrigerant. Make sure you're pulling it in through the low side.
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Old 07-13-2020, 02:42 PM #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bad Luck View Post
Are you charging on the low or high side? Is that the pressure reading with the ac on or off?
Quote:
Originally Posted by azrex View Post
Assuming that you had pulled vacuum on the system, when you initially open the valve to introduce the refrigerant, it should have pulled much of the can in immediately. Usually that's enough to engage the compressor and draw in the rest of the can. You may need to apply 12 volts to the compressor wire in order to engage the clutch and draw in the refrigerant. Make sure you're pulling it in through the low side.
Charging through low side and ac on. Compressor clutch won’t engage And refrigerant is not being sucked into system.
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Old 07-13-2020, 02:46 PM #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azrex View Post
Assuming that you had pulled vacuum on the system, when you initially open the valve to introduce the refrigerant, it should have pulled much of the can in immediately. Usually that's enough to engage the compressor and draw in the rest of the can. You may need to apply 12 volts to the compressor wire in order to engage the clutch and draw in the refrigerant. Make sure you're pulling it in through the low side.
What is safest way to apply the 12 volts to jump the compressor?
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Old 07-13-2020, 04:07 PM #21
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I would try unplugging the pressure switch (located on the ac line on the passenger side near the firewall) and jumping the connector terminals (on the harness side) to each other and see if the compressor will engage then.
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Old 07-13-2020, 09:26 PM #22
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Before hotwiring the compressor make sure your "service line" protocols have been followed based on the type of gauges and shraeder valve connectors you are using. After disconnecting the vacuum pump from the service line and waiting whatever time you choose for leak testing, make sure to purge the "service" line once the engine is running and the refrigerant is hooked up to the service line and opened, ac switch is on, doors open and blower set to max and recirculate and you are ready to open the low side. It took mine a good 3-5 mins to pull in enough refrigerant to start the compressor. Good luck.
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Old 07-14-2020, 05:44 PM #23
AnotherCO4Runner AnotherCO4Runner is offline
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File under D for "doh"

So, the compressor wasn't plugged in, in layman. Make sure you hear that click everybody!
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