07-13-2020, 11:29 AM
|
#1
|
 |
Member
|
|
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 296
Real Name: Emory
|
|
Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 296
Real Name: Emory
|
Removing stripped seat bolt
The front left seat bolt on the drivers side in my 02 is cross-threaded/stripped … the seat wobbles and I can't back it out or screw it any further in. Any thoughts on how best to remove it?
__________________
2006 4Runner Sport Edition V6 4WD - Shadow Mica
2005 4Runner SR5 V6 - Titanium Metallic
2004 Sequoia SR5 V8 4WD - Natural White w/ Silver Sky Metallic cladding
2002 4Runner SR5 Sport V6 4WD - Black
Yes, I still own all four ...
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
07-13-2020, 11:35 AM
|
#2
|
 |
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: denver
Posts: 2,991
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: denver
Posts: 2,991
|
Use a small flat pry bar or a' flat screw driver and apply upward force on the head of the bolt while loosening it.
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
07-13-2020, 12:19 PM
|
#3
|
 |
Elite Member
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Pocono Mountains
Posts: 7,487
|
|
Elite Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Pocono Mountains
Posts: 7,487
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by spartacus
Use a small flat pry bar or a' flat screw driver and apply upward force on the head of the bolt while loosening it.
|
Actually, on that particular bolt, this may not be the best approach. It's probably not stripped, rather the thread has corroded and the weld-nut has broken free from the sheet metal of the floor contour it is welded to. This is pretty common. You can try the pry bar, but it probably won't work and if you force it hard with the pry bar, you will just rupture the sheet metal and do more damage to the floor. Pressure with the pry-bar is unlikely to secure the nut if the sheet-metal could not hold it,
There is no easy way. I would try to dremel the head of the bolt off. You could also drill the head off, but it might spin on you. If you have to, then just go violent and just pry the base up without trying to turn the bolt until the nut busts through the sheet metal. Then you still have to cut the bolt out of there.
The fix is easy. Just get a longer bolt and drill through the lower floor and put a nut and a big fender washer on the underside of the truck. Cover with RTV to seal. That's worked fine for me and many others.
Some people of the OCD persuasion have welded in new sheet metal or inserted a new nut through a slot cut into the side of the contour. Search and you will find them.
__________________
'99 4Runner SR5 5spd 3.4L V6 4WD(U.S), original '99 Talls in front, OME 906s in back, Hella fogs, Trekmaster shocks in front, Billy in back, no running boards, FIAMM horns, Alpine sound, Michelin LTX M/S2's, owned since new.
'97 HiLux SW4 5spd 4WD(Japan model bought in Brazil assembled in Argentina, very close to a 3.0 4Runner/Surf)
'71 FordWillys Jeep CJ5 (with straight six Ford Maverick 3.0 liter engine--lives in the mountains north of Sao Paulo Brazil)
My Backyard Frame Swap
Last edited by TheDurk; 07-13-2020 at 12:23 PM.
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
07-13-2020, 02:01 PM
|
#4
|
 |
Member
|
|
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 296
Real Name: Emory
|
|
Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 296
Real Name: Emory
|
Thanks … I've already tried prying up on the head of the bolt with no luck. The explanation of the weld-nut breaking free makes a lot of sense. I can definitely cut the bolt with a Dremel, but was concerned about how I would get the remaining portion out. Sounds like cutting it out is my only option (other than just ripping it out, which would probably cause more damage).
__________________
2006 4Runner Sport Edition V6 4WD - Shadow Mica
2005 4Runner SR5 V6 - Titanium Metallic
2004 Sequoia SR5 V8 4WD - Natural White w/ Silver Sky Metallic cladding
2002 4Runner SR5 Sport V6 4WD - Black
Yes, I still own all four ...
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
07-13-2020, 03:34 PM
|
#5
|
 |
Elite Member
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Pocono Mountains
Posts: 7,487
|
|
Elite Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Pocono Mountains
Posts: 7,487
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrEMan
Thanks … I've already tried prying up on the head of the bolt with no luck. The explanation of the weld-nut breaking free makes a lot of sense. I can definitely cut the bolt with a Dremel, but was concerned about how I would get the remaining portion out. Sounds like cutting it out is my only option (other than just ripping it out, which would probably cause more damage).
|
You can just leave it, or fish it out with a magnet if you are lucky.
__________________
'99 4Runner SR5 5spd 3.4L V6 4WD(U.S), original '99 Talls in front, OME 906s in back, Hella fogs, Trekmaster shocks in front, Billy in back, no running boards, FIAMM horns, Alpine sound, Michelin LTX M/S2's, owned since new.
'97 HiLux SW4 5spd 4WD(Japan model bought in Brazil assembled in Argentina, very close to a 3.0 4Runner/Surf)
'71 FordWillys Jeep CJ5 (with straight six Ford Maverick 3.0 liter engine--lives in the mountains north of Sao Paulo Brazil)
My Backyard Frame Swap
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
12-04-2020, 10:33 PM
|
#6
|
 |
Member
|
|
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Mideast
Posts: 962
|
|
Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Mideast
Posts: 962
|
the welded nut for my driver's seat is now loose and was wondering if somebody could kindly measure the original center-center spacing of the two front bolts of the driver's seat? the seat frame on mine is wiggling so i can't base the correct measurement on the seat frame.
i'm planning to weld a nut to a piece of sheet metal and weld it to where the nut was originally welded.
Thank you.
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
12-05-2020, 08:59 PM
|
#8
|
 |
Member
|
|
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: San Diego CA
Posts: 417
|
|
Member
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: San Diego CA
Posts: 417
|
my bolt ripped out due to sheet metal fatigue. I posted my solution here. hope it makes sense.
Front seat bolt thread ripped out of floorboard
__________________
IG: @4runnerfiend- 1999 SR5: TRD Supercharger, ELocker, Wheelers T1 Coils-tundra 5100's, Built Right UCA's, LC 8 wraps-Fox 2.0 with CD adjuster, Rokmen lower links, Savage skids, Hot Metal Fab Front Tube bumper, Savage Rear tube bumper, TruckShopSD Sliders, DuroBumps, RidgeGrapplers, Doug Thorley Headers, yellow top, XRC 12k, ARB single compressor.
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
12-06-2020, 04:02 AM
|
#10
|
 |
Member
|
|
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Mideast
Posts: 962
|
|
Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Mideast
Posts: 962
|
Thanks man! Appreciate it!
Quote:
Originally Posted by brillo_76
From the center of the other hole and from the pinch weld of the rocker.
Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk
|
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
05-07-2023, 04:44 PM
|
#11
|
Junior Member
|
|
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Broken Arrow, OK
Posts: 13
Real Name: Ben
|
|
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Broken Arrow, OK
Posts: 13
Real Name: Ben
|
Does anyone know what size the seat bolt is? I need to order a tap & die to fix boogered threads. Looks like it might be M10x1.0.
__________________
2002 Limited
Golden Pearl
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
05-08-2023, 10:33 AM
|
#12
|
 |
Member
|
|
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Missouri
Posts: 383
|
|
Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Missouri
Posts: 383
|
Odd. I have an issue with this same bolt. It just spins freely and I cannot screw it further in or out. Even with apply upward pressure.
__________________
Living and breathing and bleeding Toyota

RIP my ‘96.
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
05-17-2023, 09:18 PM
|
#15
|
 |
Elite Member
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Pocono Mountains
Posts: 7,487
|
|
Elite Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Pocono Mountains
Posts: 7,487
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by sneezye
Does anyone know what size the seat bolt is? I need to order a tap & die to fix boogered threads. Looks like it might be M10x1.0.
|
That bolt is p/n 90119-10825 *** STD. PART. The 10 right after the hyphen means it is an M10. Toyota M10s are usually 1.25 thread. This list has never done me wrong:
Quote:
There are four primary considerations for spare bolts and nuts: (1) diameter, (2) pitch, (3) class (strength rating), and length (bolts only). Toyota was nice and standardized on only one pitch for each thread diameter, as follows:
6 mm diameter - 1 mm pitch (iso course) - requires 10 mm wrench to fit head / nut
8 mm diameter - 1.25 mm pitch (iso course) - requires 12 mm wrench to fit head / nut
10 mm diameter - 1.25 mm pitch (iso fine) - requires 14 mm wrench to fit head / nut
12 mm diameter - 1.25 mm pitch (iso other) - requires 17 mm wrench to fit head / nut
14 mm diameter - 1.5 mm pitch (iso fine) - requires 19 mm wrench to fit head / nut
16 mm diameter - 1.5 mm pitch (iso fine) - requires 22 mm wrench to fit head / nut
|
__________________
'99 4Runner SR5 5spd 3.4L V6 4WD(U.S), original '99 Talls in front, OME 906s in back, Hella fogs, Trekmaster shocks in front, Billy in back, no running boards, FIAMM horns, Alpine sound, Michelin LTX M/S2's, owned since new.
'97 HiLux SW4 5spd 4WD(Japan model bought in Brazil assembled in Argentina, very close to a 3.0 4Runner/Surf)
'71 FordWillys Jeep CJ5 (with straight six Ford Maverick 3.0 liter engine--lives in the mountains north of Sao Paulo Brazil)
My Backyard Frame Swap
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
Thread Tools |
|
Display Modes |
Rate This Thread |
Linear Mode
|
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is On
|
|
|
|