07-14-2020, 10:43 PM
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#1
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Anyone done LC Springs + Airbags?
Considering doing land cruiser springs in the rear. I know they sag under load. Was wondering if anyone has done the LC springs and airbags in the rear? Would they take 3rd gen airbags or would I have to buy airbags for a LC. Just wondering if anyone has any experience. Thanks
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07-15-2020, 12:00 AM
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#2
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Try to search this forum using google. This topic came up a few months ago and Airlift came up with a different part# that has a longer airbag.
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07-15-2020, 09:26 AM
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#3
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07-15-2020, 09:59 AM
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#4
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I ran the SS 1.2 lift 8 wrap LC springs for 100k mi never felt a need for bags.
Loaded 2-4 people with guns n gear in back, SxS on trailer 200ish tongue weight. Would squat not sag, stayed off of extended bumps on highway, deeper offroad camp road more bump hits. Drop the trailer keep peeps n gear no problem no squat.
I would get the bags for LC springs, enough difference in the two OE to 8 wrap, OE to 7.5 wrap ?
Is there a difference between 8 wrap bag and 7.5 bag ? might be worth asking.
Last edited by 96RedRunner; 07-15-2020 at 10:07 AM.
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07-15-2020, 10:10 AM
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#5
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This thread has a link to a list of air bags by size.
Which Air Lift bags with 3.5 inch lift
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07-15-2020, 10:23 AM
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#6
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@ Dieselchessy
, Question answered, ha, good link.
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07-15-2020, 03:37 PM
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#7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96RedRunner
I ran the SS 1.2 lift 8 wrap LC springs for 100k mi never felt a need for bags.
Loaded 2-4 people with guns n gear in back, SxS on trailer 200ish tongue weight. Would squat not sag, stayed off of extended bumps on highway, deeper offroad camp road more bump hits. Drop the trailer keep peeps n gear no problem no squat.
I would get the bags for LC springs, enough difference in the two OE to 8 wrap, OE to 7.5 wrap ?
Is there a difference between 8 wrap bag and 7.5 bag ? might be worth asking.
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Thanks for your input, that's my exact situation. Need to carry people and tow a SXS. Did you do brake line extensions to the rear or anything?
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07-15-2020, 03:39 PM
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#8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dieselchessy
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Diesel is the man
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07-15-2020, 03:48 PM
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#9
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I've got the Sonoran Steel 1.2 with the 7.5 wrap coils in the rear. They're already pretty stiff, it handles great for a lifted truck. I hauled a packed 6x10 uhaul recently and it didn't squat past parallel.
My 2 cents is avoid the complexity and cost of the airbags, the LC coils and black Tokico's are more than enough spring and damping for a 3rd gen.
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'96 T4R "Fives": Sonoran Steel 1.2 Lift, Radflo 2in C/O, SPC UCA, all new bushings, TRE's, R&P, 1st Gen Taco Sway bar mod, Powerstop Tundra Brakes, SCS F5 Wheels, 33" KO2's & 'self-clearanced' fenders, Snorkel, Custom designed & fabbed front bumper, cerakote'd, reskinned front seats, sleeping platform. And 290k miles.
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07-15-2020, 07:36 PM
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#10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frikx
I've got the Sonoran Steel 1.2 with the 7.5 wrap coils in the rear. They're already pretty stiff, it handles great for a lifted truck. I hauled a packed 6x10 uhaul recently and it didn't squat past parallel.
My 2 cents is avoid the complexity and cost of the airbags, the LC coils and black Tokico's are more than enough spring and damping for a 3rd gen.
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Thanks for your input, I was thinking about these 5100 long travels. You think that would work?
Long Travel Bilstein 5100 Rear Shocks for 1996-2002 Toyota 4runner
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07-15-2020, 07:38 PM
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#11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stereww
Did you do brake line extensions to the rear or anything?........
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Or anything oh yea. longer line remount the T in line, higher, same on 01 with both rear lines. E-brake cable mount needs extended higher. If you have E-locker swaybar extended higher at axle mount, longer end links good idea. The best Gizmo to come out lately the eimkeith PCK panhard correction kit. Lifting like your talking is going to throw body to side of axle center using OE bar, you'll feel rearend scoot left/right hitting seams in road.
Two choices, $250-300 adjustible bar, won't correct rear link geometry after lift.
PCK corrects geometry, use OE bar, $100 with access to welder, no welder lil more.
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07-15-2020, 07:49 PM
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#12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stereww
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The SS 1.2 lift mentioned consists of Tundra springs & struts front, LC springs & shocks rear, valved for Tundra and LC and I would stick with it for how you use Runner Billy's or Tokico.
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08-04-2020, 11:31 PM
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#13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96RedRunner
Or anything oh yea. longer line remount the T in line, higher, same on 01 with both rear lines. E-brake cable mount needs extended higher. If you have E-locker swaybar extended higher at axle mount, longer end links good idea. The best Gizmo to come out lately the eimkeith PCK panhard correction kit. Lifting like your talking is going to throw body to side of axle center using OE bar, you'll feel rearend scoot left/right hitting seams in road.
Two choices, $250-300 adjustible bar, won't correct rear link geometry after lift.
PCK corrects geometry, use OE bar, $100 with access to welder, no welder lil more.
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I would 100% recommend the correction kits instead of the adjustable bar, although both together is nice in order to get the perfect thrust angle on the driveshaft. I took off my 7 wraps and Tundra springs and put back on the 99 talls because I just couldn't stand all the swaying and didn't want to go welding on my truck at that point.
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08-04-2020, 11:51 PM
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#14
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for what its worth...i am doing the LC springs, tokico shocks and im doing airbags too. maybe overkill, but my 3rd gen with kyb's and "toyota...not aftermarket" 99 talls after only 40k could not take a heavy load again without issues so now it has bags. The LC springs etc I wont get to for about another month, but on order, so im just gonna do it while its all apart and new.
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08-04-2020, 11:55 PM
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#15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3bears
for what its worth...i am doing the LC springs, tokico shocks and im doing airbags too. maybe overkill, but my 3rd gen with kyb's and "toyota...not aftermarket" 99 talls after only 40k could not take a heavy load again without issues. so im just gonna do it while its all apart and new.
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I'm pretty sure you can just run the bump stops full length with the 7 wraps instead of cutting like you do with the oem springs. You cut like 1.5-2 inches of the bump stop cone when using the stock springs, so I bet you won't even need to with the taller springs. I don't know why I didn't think of that before. The only reason you cut the bump stops is because you need room for the bag to fit vertically.
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