Sorry for late reply.
Well no. It is still there. I literally did the inner tie rods and LCAs on both sides.
same. I will change the bushings on the sway bar end links (they are cracked up pretty bad). I did an alignment of course after replacing the inner tie rods. Aftermarket ones had my steering wheel way off!!

Probably not the sway bar bushings, take your sway bar off for a day and see.. just drive careful if you do..

I am looking forward to your solution... I purchased a non-lifted 1998 with 98,000 miles on it... it has aftermarket wheels and Pathfinder tires and I have had them to 5 different shops for balancing, but still have vibrations at highway speeds.

I had a mechanic look the car over when I bought it, but perhaps I need him to do a deeper search in the suspension parts. Right after purchase the Toyota dealer informed me of a recall that was about 12+ years old that the previous owner never did... replaced all of the shocks for free.

Bigger tires and 231mm tundra brakes blew through my 20 year old oem LCA bushing and trashed new aftermarket LC Arms/bushings within a year. You'll feel it in the steering wheel and when doing any hard braking if it is your LCA bushings. This can often be mistaken for OTR failure or alignment problems. I would go for Whiteline Poly bushings in our OEM Lower Control Arms.... believe me aftermarket LCAs can be good for a little while but they will mess up your LBJ and possibly tie rods/steering rack by transferring braking force to them (causing your steering vibes/pull). You will need a 12 ton press, bottle jack, and a propane torch but it's not so bad of a job once you learn a few tricks.

Dropped it off at a mechanic and was told the vibrations and noise was from the rear wheel bearings. Quoted $600 to do both. Doesn't seem like a job I can really tackle without the right tools and a garage. I think I might do it, thoughts?

Gunna be hard with out a garage.. but for the cost of the shop doing it you could basically buy the tools and the parts for the same amount or less. If you haven’t watched Timmy the toolmans video on it already that’s a good place to start.

I still feel like the tires have a little to do with it, especially if you know one of the tires already has a bulge. Age, wear and brand have a lot to play into it. It does happen Im sure, but Ive never had a wheel bearing that made noise in a certain speed range but not at slow to medium or high speed as well. And generally both wouldnt be bad at the same time unless the issue stemmed form the axle seals going bad first, but you could tell that if you pulled rear abs wheel sensors and checked them for gear lube on the sensor and in the housing.

I can imagine the noise coming from wheel bearings but I'm skeptical of vibration. I'm also having vibration issues around 60-70 mph and just replaced wheel bearings last week and it hasn't gone away. I think it's either the 10 year old tires or something in the front end. Maybe LBJs.

That said, if it is wheel bearings, I pulled my axles myself, bought replacement parts, and took them to an automotive machine shop to have everything removed and pressed on. It basically cost me $60 per axle plus parts. I bought my parts from a dealership so it was like $340 in parts but if you're willing to wait you can find the stuff cheaper online and save $100. I consider myself an average mechanic at best and the job wasn't too bad with normal hand tools. Hardest part was getting the damn return spring on the brakes. Haha. I relied heavily on mtbtim's videos for the axle rebuild and brake job.

If you do use OEM axle seals be sure you have the shop flip the inner retainers like mtbtim recommends. If I wouldn't have had them flipped, the inner seal lip would have been dangerously close to the bevel on the retainer.

EDIT: I replaced my bearings because I found that the seals were leaking, not to try to fix vibrations.

Also, check your rear LCA/UCA bushings.

Reading through all the replies many of us have had issues with vibrations for one reason or another.
These trucks are now 20+ years old with lots of miles so there are many possibilities as bushings wear out and crack, suspension/steering components wear out and alignments change.
Best is to start with the basics which many times are the lowest cost possibilities and go from there.
Careful inspection of the tires/wheels followed by a quality Road Force wheel balancing of all 4 wheels would be my starting place.
Once that’s done if still a problem if your not comfortable doing yourself find a quality shop to inspect your suspension bushings and steering components.
Odds are you’ll find the problem.
I’d do the above before replacing the rear axle bearings unless you have leaky seals as than go for it as the repair is needed anyway.

^ I would definitely start with this ^.

Something to try is put it up on jack stands pointing in a safe direction and bring it up to speed and see if you can isolate the vibration. If you are in two wheel drive and it goes a way then you can look at the front eg driveline. If the vibration happens in two wheel drive then look to tires driveline.

This makes sense but man, it'd be scary getting up to 60 mph on jackstands!

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Exactly what I was thinking, 60-70 mph on jack stands sounds super sketch lol. Like others I’d highly recommend starting with a road force tire balance, pretty sure these trucks are somewhat sensitive to tires that are out of balance. Make sure they have a road force machine before you go, I don’t think all shops have it.

Properly placed jack stands on the axle tubes will allow you to safely run up engine and drive train to the desired speeds. There are many variables driving down roads that include slowing for another driver, wash board road and others while trying to evaluate where the vibration is coming from makes it much more difficult.