1999 T4R. I’ve decided to get a remanufactured engine. After researching JDM motors, I’ve decided that I trust none of the sources. Especially because I don’t understand how anyone can verify the true mileage on a used engine.
I’m not a good wrench turner, but I have a couple really experienced and trustworthy mechanics I go to. I plan I’m keeping my T4R for the rest of my life.
Is there anything that I need to replace with the new motor that isn’t included (radiator, etc).
Also, I have a Gen 1 TRD supercharger. I spoke with someone who rebuilds them and he explained that refreshing a supercharger cost about $800, but that doesn’t include replacing the rotors which he said is necessary on a high mileage s/c like mine. (Costs about $1900 for rotors according to him). I don’t know the mileage on the s/c, but my rig has 240,000, so it might be that high. I’m not willing to pay that much to have the s/c completely rebuilt. I’d rather just have the new motor naturally aspirated.
Does anyone have any feedback regarding any of these companies? Any thoughts/ recommendations are welcomed.
If I were you, I think I'd lean towards the Yota Shop rebuild.
For what it's worth, I purchased a remanufactured Jasper transmission almost four years ago. I've put almost 30,000 miles on it without any problems. Will it last as long as my original unit? I'm skeptical, but time will tell. When I researched Jasper I came across a lot of bad reviews regarding their crate engines. A lot of these stemmed from guys with domestic vehicles and could have just been crappy installs.
I haven't seen anyone bad mouth the Yota Shop folks, but I also haven't researched this much and I'm hoping I don't have to for a while. Good luck.
I would probably go with the Yota Shop. I've heard good things about their rebuilds. The Yota Shop comes with a gasket/part kit and you'll have to see what they include so you know the things you might want to replace at the time you swap over parts from your old engine to your new engine. I don't think the kit comes with knock sensors, those might be good to replace. They might not come with injectors. Might be the time to replace them with a good remanufactured set.
In regards to your supercharger rebuild, $1900 sounds a bit ridiculous. How about just checking the condition of the nose cone bearing and coupler (aka Phenolic Coupler). If they're fine, do an oil change and call it good.
__________________ "My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools. I can fix it!"
If I were you, I think I'd lean towards the Yota Shop rebuild.
For what it's worth, I purchased a remanufactured Jasper transmission almost four years ago. I've put almost 30,000 miles on it without any problems. Will it last as long as my original unit? I'm skeptical, but time will tell. When I researched Jasper I came across a lot of bad reviews regarding their crate engines. A lot of these stemmed from guys with domestic vehicles and could have just been crappy installs.
I haven't seen anyone bad mouth the Yota Shop folks, but I also haven't researched this much and I'm hoping I don't have to for a while. Good luck.
If I were you, I think I'd lean towards the Yota Shop rebuild.
For what it's worth, I purchased a remanufactured Jasper transmission almost four years ago. I've put almost 30,000 miles on it without any problems. Will it last as long as my original unit? I'm skeptical, but time will tell. When I researched Jasper I came across a lot of bad reviews regarding their crate engines. A lot of these stemmed from guys with domestic vehicles and could have just been crappy installs.
I haven't seen anyone bad mouth the Yota Shop folks, but I also haven't researched this much and I'm hoping I don't have to for a while. Good luck.
Quote:
Originally Posted by rexassian
I'm sure the yotashop block is super high quality. Here's another source I was looking into for my swap:
I’m definitely leaning towards the Yota Shop after yalls Input. The link you provided is the same motor I mentioned in my original post. Great price. No feedback from any customers. Sketchy.
I would probably go with the Yota Shop. I've heard good things about their rebuilds. The Yota Shop comes with a gasket/part kit and you'll have to see what they include so you know the things you might want to replace at the time you swap over parts from your old engine to your new engine. I don't think the kit comes with knock sensors, those might be good to replace. They might not come with injectors. Might be the time to replace them with a good remanufactured set.
In regards to your supercharger rebuild, $1900 sounds a bit ridiculous. How about just checking the condition of the nose cone bearing and coupler (aka Phenolic Coupler). If they're fine, do an oil change and call it good.
Received. In reguards to the supercharger: it was explained that a rebuild would cost $800, but with how old it is, the rebuilder told me tgat the coating on the “rotors” would likely be bad. He further explained that they don’t even make new rotors for the Gen 1 TRD s/c. He then found the rotors for $1900.
I’ve had no issues with my s/c. Would it be unwise to drop the motor in, Mount my s/c, and rebuild the s/c down the road when it needs it?
Received. In reguards to the supercharger: it was explained that a rebuild would cost $800, but with how old it is, the rebuilder told me tgat the coating on the “rotors” would likely be bad. He further explained that they don’t even make new rotors for the Gen 1 TRD s/c. He then found the rotors for $1900.
I’ve had no issues with my s/c. Would it be unwise to drop the motor in, Mount my s/c, and rebuild the s/c down the road when it needs it?
Any feedback reguarding s/c rotors?
Would I be good with the standard $800 rebuild?
If you're not having issues with the supercharger, I don't see any problem mounting it on the replacement motor. But, maybe for the engine break-in period, possibly having it non-booted would be ideal. I'd ask the advice of the Yota Shop people and see what they say. There is very specific engine break-in procedures to follow.
__________________ "My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools. I can fix it!"
I mentioned the supercharger to them and they simply stated that it would not void the warranted as long as the pulley did not exceed the Toyota recommended 6lbs of boost.
My cousin just pulled one and his customer brought him a jdm engine. It doesn’t work
Two extra sensors we don’t have different oil pan
And the exhaust crossover tube is backwards.
My cousin just pulled one and his customer brought him a jdm engine. It doesn’t work
Two extra sensors we don’t have different oil pan
And the exhaust crossover tube is backwards.
Exhaust manifolds have to be swapped.
Crossover pipe has to be swapped.
All pulleys have to be removed and swapped, the JDM engine uses a 6-rib belt.
Intake needs to be removed and swapped.
Injectors are a different part number, I swapped them.
Oil pan is oriented the opposite direction, needs to be swapped.
Oil pickup tube is backwards, has to be swapped.
Alternator and A/C have to be swapped.
It's a lot of work. Been there done that. I would imagine your cousin charged that customer an arm and a leg for that engine work.
In regards to the supercharger, if you've driven it already and does not make excessive noise then drive it as-is. If it's new to you and you'd like a refresh just have a standard rebuild. It's very rare for the rotors to ever go bad unless the supercharger has scored away the housing due to excessive rotor play, which then the rotors are the least of your problems. Even if the rotors lose some of the thermo coating, they still produce sufficient boost and you'll hardly notice the difference.
Exhaust manifolds have to be swapped.
Crossover pipe has to be swapped.
All pulleys have to be removed and swapped, the JDM engine uses a 6-rib belt.
Intake needs to be removed and swapped.
Injectors are a different part number, I swapped them.
Oil pan is oriented the opposite direction, needs to be swapped.
Oil pickup tube is backwards, has to be swapped.
Alternator and A/C have to be swapped.
It's a lot of work. Been there done that. I would imagine your cousin charged that customer an arm and a leg for that engine work.
In regards to the supercharger, if you've driven it already and does not make excessive noise then drive it as-is. If it's new to you and you'd like a refresh just have a standard rebuild. It's very rare for the rotors to ever go bad unless the supercharger has scored away the housing due to excessive rotor play, which then the rotors are the least of your problems. Even if the rotors lose some of the thermo coating, they still produce sufficient boost and you'll hardly notice the difference.
Exhaust manifolds have to be swapped.
Crossover pipe has to be swapped.
All pulleys have to be removed and swapped, the JDM engine uses a 6-rib belt.
Intake needs to be removed and swapped.
Injectors are a different part number, I swapped them.
Oil pan is oriented the opposite direction, needs to be swapped.
Oil pickup tube is backwards, has to be swapped.
Alternator and A/C have to be swapped.
It's a lot of work. Been there done that. I would imagine your cousin charged that customer an arm and a leg for that engine work.
In regards to the supercharger, if you've driven it already and does not make excessive noise then drive it as-is. If it's new to you and you'd like a refresh just have a standard rebuild. It's very rare for the rotors to ever go bad unless the supercharger has scored away the housing due to excessive rotor play, which then the rotors are the least of your problems. Even if the rotors lose some of the thermo coating, they still produce sufficient boost and you'll hardly notice the difference.
Great intel. Not new to me. Been driving from 193k-245k, no issues. I'm going to remount, fix when I need to. Thanks!
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