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Old 07-25-2020, 10:36 AM #16
Sarki Sarki is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skulking View Post
I found that discrepancy when I was doing my lower ball joint replacement a few months ago. I have attached the same section out of the 2000 manual. The part numbers for the lower ball joints don't change across the model years for the 3rd gen. When I did mine I went to 59lb-ft, and I didn't feel like I was anywhere near needing to worry about stripping or breaking anything.
The diagram for the 02 shows a dust cover which is what my 02 has as well.
Always wondered why such a difference in torque values with/without dust cover.
Anybody have thoughts on that.
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Old 07-25-2020, 11:50 AM #17
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Might the discrepancy in torque values be explained by different part numbers for those 4 bolts?

From my own reading of Toyota parts diagrams, the part number for 4Runners built from 11/95 to 6/2000 is 90105-10406. An ordinary online search reveals that number has been superseded by 90080-10066.

4Runners built from 5/2001 to 8/2002 take 90119-10933. I cannot find that it's been superseded. A curiosity, however: this newer bolt's description is "Bolt W Washer".
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Old 07-25-2020, 12:23 PM #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sarki View Post
The diagram for the 02 shows a dust cover which is what my 02 has as well.
Always wondered why such a difference in torque values with/without dust cover.
Anybody have thoughts on that.
Huh, I bought dust protectors with mine and put them on and was torqueing to 59ft-lb's so maybe that's what my issue was...
I did not know about going to 37ft-lb's with dust covers so I will do that next when piecing it back together.
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Old 07-25-2020, 12:30 PM #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jack.hanks02 View Post
Damn, this is what I am hoping to avoid! Did you over torque or should I adjust my specs?

Interested in your results! And how much he charges.

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Hey Jack!
So reading into other users comments in this thread I realize now that in the FSM it says to torque to 37ft-lb's WITH dust covers on.
I bought dust covers and was torqueing to 59ft-lb's. I think I see my problem.

The mobile mechanic came and was able to extract the bolt with a butane torch to heat up the knuckle(not the bolt) and a pair of vice grips and special wrench.
The special wrench had forward and reverse facing teeth almost like a pipe wrench which allowed him to get a better grip and slowly turn out the bolt then was able to use the basic vice grips on it.
He said each time he was able to slightly turn it he would use the torch again to ensure the metal was still hot.
He also recommended using a thread chaser and cleaning tap to ensure there were no thread debris in there and to use brake cleaner to clean the knuckle threads and a lubricant like white grease to ensure the threads were smooth.

I went through wrench.com and was charged $185 for the whole procedure.
Hope this helps!
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Old 07-25-2020, 05:12 PM #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidch View Post
Might the discrepancy in torque values be explained by different part numbers for those 4 bolts?

From my own reading of Toyota parts diagrams, the part number for 4Runners built from 11/95 to 6/2000 is 90105-10406. An ordinary online search reveals that number has been superseded by 90080-10066.

4Runners built from 5/2001 to 8/2002 take 90119-10933. I cannot find that it's been superseded. A curiosity, however: this newer bolt's description is "Bolt W Washer".
These are the LBJ bolts w/washer for 01 & 02. Not sure what if any difference there is between these and the bolts for the earlier year 3rd gens.
I suspect the difference in the torque values is related to the use of the dust shield more than a difference in the bolt but that’s just a thought.
Attached Images
Lower ball joint bolts stuck in knuckle-7e42faf5-53a9-43d3-a0a6-68cc2e72dba1-jpg  Lower ball joint bolts stuck in knuckle-87bf8544-1504-483c-b4a3-285c7663e9af-jpg 
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Old 07-25-2020, 07:29 PM #21
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^ That's a bit different from the 90105-10406 bolt, which is more of a flange bolt.

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Old 07-25-2020, 08:43 PM #22
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Now if I can only get past the fear of snapping these rusty bolts i’d replace my LBJ’s since I have a pair as well as new inner/outer TRE’s (all OEM) sitting on my workbench since last summer.....downside of living in the northeast!
The fact the originals were replaced under recall at 60K miles makes me a bit comfortable but now going on 185K.
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Old 07-25-2020, 09:06 PM #23
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one other get it out tool that has saved my butt from time to time

https://www.autozone.com/tools-and-e...00000043798748


you have to have enough of the bolt out to get a grab onto it. the good news is if the bolt then turns off it's flush and you are on the drill out and re-tap it path anyways at this point.
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Old 10-06-2020, 08:57 AM #24
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Update on this. I put both spindles in a vise and tried every thing I could but the bolts would not budge.

Took spindles to a machine shop where they drilled them all out for $40. Ez pz.

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Old 10-06-2020, 11:37 AM #25
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Taken from another thread I posted this on discussing these bolts:

"Looking at the pictures OP posted of his bolts, they are "Class 11T" [the four lower ball joint bolts] based on the markings as per the service manual page 130 (SS-1). On the following page, the standard torque for a Class 11T M10 hexagon flange bolt is 72 ft lbf. 64 ft lbf for a hexagon head bolt of the same class and size. Therefore, torquing them to 59 ft lbf would be completely understandable in my opinion so long as you verify your bolt grade".

This only applies if you are using Toyota fasteners. Check your bolt head markings and compare to the service manual or the above quote.
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