I managed to get the ball joints out, but like so many others with rust, 3 of the bolts remain in the knuckle.

What are the proven methods to get these out? My plan right now is vice grips, pb blaster, and heat.

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Heat and an air hammer if you have one

I have had great luck with a BUTANE torch on these smaller type bolts. Just remove the knuckle and put it in a vise so you don't end up torching the CV-Axle or setting the bearing grease on fire. I have seen BOTH done, and let me tell you CV axle grease burns black and nasty.

I would heat the bolts themselves until the are red hot with the point of the butane torch. Then put cold water to "shock" the metal. Hit the knuckle with a ball peen hammer a few times on the knuckle around the bolt. DON"T Attack them with vise grips. You should be able to bust most of the rust loose with a few sessions of PB blaster, then heat, then hammering, then cold water. Rinse and repeat and you can probably turn them with a pair of pliers.

I wish you all the best on your future endeavors...
I recently broke a NEW bolt replacing my ball joints the other day with my torque wrench.
I have tried PBblaster and vice grips on it to no avail.
A mobile mechanic is coming out tomorrow to sort out the problem and get the new bolt out of the knuckle, when he finishes the job I'll ask him what he did to remove it and will let you know if you're still having the issue.

Get some MAP gas, and heat bolts up until they're red. Then you should be able to unscrew them with a pair of vise grips. If that doesn't work heat them up again, and this time hold a candle to the threads where the thread go into the spindle. The heat will draw the wax in, and will help to loosen the bolt from the rust.

Mike

I got a map gas torch, but the flame is way too big. Risk burning the cv boot. Trying to avoid taking the knuckle off. Mostly because if I do I'll probably find other shit that needs replaced .

Thinking I will try my little butane torch and go buy a bigger one if needed.

Good to know about the candle.

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Damn, this is what I am hoping to avoid! Did you over torque or should I adjust my specs?

Interested in your results! And how much he charges.

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Sounds like a plan. I will try it without removing the knuckle first and go from there. Maybe I will be lucky but highly doubtful

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The only difference between the MAP gas torch & propane torch is the fuel. Flame will be the same size, and map gas will get hotter. Butane really isn't a very effective source for heat when trying to remove a rust bolt. You can put a leather glove between the spindle and cv boot to help not melt the boot.

For the record, you can also heat the lower side of the spindle rather than thread portion that's sticking out. This will also keep the flame away from your cv, and still get the rust bolt plenty hot.

Over torque on these bolts will cause them to snap off.

Mike

Yeah I just got a bernzomatic kit that came with map gas. I just wish I could adjust the flame size coming out.

I was also considering putting something in to block the cv boot. Good call on the leather glove!

I can't find my damn cheap ass butane torch anyway, but if I do I will try it first for curiosity's sake.

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No way that should happen. I'd double check the spec you were using or you need a new torque wrench.

I was torqueing to 59ft-lb’s...
it was a brand new Harbor freight torque wrench so I learned my lesson on using those tools.
Going to upgrade it.

I torqued to spec(59ft-lb) but I think my new Harbor freight torque wrench is crap so I think that was the issue.
I’ll let you know tomorrow afternoon

The '02 manual, at least, shows 37 ft-lb.

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I found that discrepancy when I was doing my lower ball joint replacement a few months ago. I have attached the same section out of the 2000 manual. The part numbers for the lower ball joints don't change across the model years for the 3rd gen. When I did mine I went to 59lb-ft, and I didn't feel like I was anywhere near needing to worry about stripping or breaking anything.

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