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Old 07-27-2020, 09:52 AM #16
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For the record I’ve never used a OEM oil filter in any brand vehicle I bought.

Since my first 4Runner I’ve used FL400S Motorcraft filters from Walmart on my Saturn and 4Runner.


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Old 07-27-2020, 03:35 PM #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LittleCaesar View Post
Being in Mexico see if you can find Mobil 1 High Mileage in the 10w-30 or 40 weight, or even Rotella T6. All will slowly clean the inside of the engine.

Also may want to use a little Marvel Mystery oil in the crankcase if you can’t find any of the three above.
I personally use both: 4qts of T6 5w40 + 1qt of MMO. Works phenomenal over long durations. Highly recommend, made my valve train look damn near new (I could've swore it even removed some of the orange varnish)
Edit: should be mentioned MMO will bring your oil down from 40 to roughly 30 weight, when used like this. Believe it even says so on the back of the bottle. It's nothing but detergents suspended in 5 weight oil
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Old 07-27-2020, 05:39 PM #18
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Old 07-27-2020, 08:09 PM #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Devbot View Post
I personally use both: 4qts of T6 5w40 + 1qt of MMO. Works phenomenal over long durations. Highly recommend, made my valve train look damn near new (I could've swore it even removed some of the orange varnish)
Edit: should be mentioned MMO will bring your oil down from 40 to roughly 30 weight, when used like this. Believe it even says so on the back of the bottle. It's nothing but detergents suspended in 5 weight oil
I used to think MMO was snake oil until my neighbor in Virginia a couple of years ago had a S10 V6 that had a terrible rod knock and the engine drank oil. Poured 1/2 bottle in the engine after an oil change and after about six months later the engine stopped knocking as well as drinking oil. He got another 45,000 miles or so out of it until the transmission bit the dust. It isn’t a cure all but can be helpful in the right application.

T6, as well as the aforementioned Mobil oils as well as Pennzoil Ultra and Platinum, have been good, slow, engine cleaners for me.
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Old 07-27-2020, 09:07 PM #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Devbot View Post
I personally use both: 4qts of T6 5w40 + 1qt of MMO. Works phenomenal over long durations. Highly recommend, made my valve train look damn near new (I could've swore it even removed some of the orange varnish)
Edit: should be mentioned MMO will bring your oil down from 40 to roughly 30 weight, when used like this. Believe it even says so on the back of the bottle. It's nothing but detergents suspended in 5 weight oil
Quote:
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I used to think MMO was snake oil until my neighbor in Virginia a couple of years ago had a S10 V6 that had a terrible rod knock and the engine drank oil. Poured 1/2 bottle in the engine after an oil change and after about six months later the engine stopped knocking as well as drinking oil. He got another 45,000 miles or so out of it until the transmission bit the dust. It isn’t a cure all but can be helpful in the right application.

T6, as well as the aforementioned Mobil oils as well as Pennzoil Ultra and Platinum, have been good, slow, engine cleaners for me.
Is Marvel Mystery Oil only for the long term OR does it begin to clean engine , especially the screen on the oil pick-up tube, quickly.

2nd question: Since I am getting the oil light only at IDLE, but not at 800 RPMS and up, would driving the T4R do damage to engine ?

Last edited by Traveler74; 07-27-2020 at 11:42 PM.
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Old 07-28-2020, 09:59 AM #21
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What is your idle rpm? It should be 750 in park or neutral and if you have the automatic 600 in gear.


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Old 07-28-2020, 12:18 PM #22
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Is Marvel Mystery Oil only for the long term OR does it begin to clean engine , especially the screen on the oil pick-up tube, quickly.

2nd question: Since I am getting the oil light only at IDLE, but not at 800 RPMS and up, would driving the T4R do damage to engine ?
Do not leave MMO in the oil for too long. Pennzoil Platinum has some pretty mean detergents as-is. Your idle does sound very low. 750-800rpm is normal idle. Can you see sludge on your dipstick?
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Old 07-28-2020, 01:11 PM #23
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Lots of good reviews on this product:

Amazon.com: Liqui Moly 2037 Pro-Line Engine Flush - 500 Milliliters: Automotive

I would use it sparingly at first, just to be sure, don't want to remove all oil film between metal parts, that hurts just thinking about it.....
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Old 07-28-2020, 02:21 PM #24
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You said in one post that this thing is a v6 2wd, so why not just drop the oil pan and see if the pickup tube is clogged up and if the pan is full of crap? Cant be that hard to do. Not like the front diff is in the way
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Old 07-28-2020, 05:36 PM #25
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Do not leave MMO in the oil for too long. Pennzoil Platinum has some pretty mean detergents as-is. Your idle does sound very low. 750-800rpm is normal idle. Can you see sludge on your dipstick?
No, I can not see sludge on my dip stick. But, I drained a bit of oil and it is one heck of a lot blacker than I think it should be, considering that I had driven it only 20 mile since the oil change. I had just changed the oil an hour before the problem started. Because I had read that using 10W-40 (Valvoline) would help me pass the California smog test, that is what I put in.

Since I just bought the vehicle I have no history on it.

Seems extremely suspicious that the problem started only an hour after the oil change.

A trusted friend, who is a professional mechanic on small engines, has urged me to flush with 1 gallon of diesel fuel and 1 quart of motor oil, leave it in overnight, then run the truck for 5 minutes and then immediately drain it. I have not yet done it, but he makes a strong case.

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Old 07-28-2020, 05:43 PM #26
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You said in one post that this thing is a v6 2wd, so why not just drop the oil pan and see if the pickup tube is clogged up and if the pan is full of crap? Cant be that hard to do. Not like the front diff is in the way
If a flush does not solve the problem, and a new oil pressure sending unit, I may be forced to drop the oil pan. But, not as easy as it seems. You must remove one hell of a lot of parts to drop the oil pan.

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Old 07-28-2020, 05:59 PM #27
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What is your idle rpm? It should be 750 in park or neutral and if you have the automatic 600 in gear.
When I replace the alternator, I will double check the RPM's in gear and at idle. The old alternator was not charging the battery.
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Old 07-28-2020, 08:03 PM #28
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If you have the oil light coming on, before flushing anything, get a oil pressure tester and see what the pressure is at idle when hot. A flush can’t hurt. MMO takes time to flush away all the sludge. I never have gone past two weeks with it in any crankcase but have known others to use it every time they do an oil change without any problems so YMMV.
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Old 07-28-2020, 10:36 PM #29
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If you have the oil light coming on, before flushing anything, get a oil pressure tester and see what the pressure is at idle when hot. A flush can’t hurt. MMO takes time to flush away all the sludge. I never have gone past two weeks with it in any crankcase but have known others to use it every time they do an oil change without any problems so YMMV.

Yes, I will be doing an oil pressure test but I have to wait for Amazon to deliver the test gauge and the new oil pressure sensor. In the meantime I'll do the flush and see what happens.

But, even before that, I must wait for my new alternator to be delivered.
PS; What is YMMV ?
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Old 07-28-2020, 10:47 PM #30
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Yes, I will be doing an oil pressure test but I have to wait for Amazon to deliver the test gauge and the new oil pressure sensor. In the meantime I'll do the flush and see what happens.

But, even before that, I must wait for my new alternator to be delivered.
PS; What is YMMV ?

ymmv= your motor might vomit
to much of the wrong oil the motor will take a puke

kidding... it used to mean.. your mileage may vary... such as how often you use it etc
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