07-19-2020, 04:12 PM
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#1
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AC Refrigerant Leak
AC stopped coolingl so I took it to the shop for a recharge and they added the fluorescent tracer. AC stopped cooling again and I could see this area where I think it is leaking but not sure. I know nothing about AC. It is summer in Florida and I don't really want to learn how to do this unless it is safe, easy and quick. I am comfortable doing all sorts of other work but never done AC stuff. Looking for advice from the brain trust. I took it to Firestone as it is close to my house and would take it back out of convenience unless there is a recommendation for a specific shop. Thanks in advance.
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07-19-2020, 04:23 PM
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#2
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official vendor
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Looks like you need to replace the Schrader valve on that port. These are very easy to replace, should cost you less than $20, and take less than 20 minutes to replace.
Mike
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07-19-2020, 04:26 PM
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#3
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That's where they would have added the R134a and dye so it might just be residue from that.
Or, it might be leaking from there.
They should have been able to find the leak.
To do it right they need to evacuate the system, pressure check it with nitrogen to find leaks, fix the leaks, pull a vacuum it and then charge it.
If anything needs to be replaced then you should get a new dryer as well.
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07-19-2020, 04:28 PM
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#4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MStudt
Looks like you need to replace the Schrader valve on that port. These are very easy to replace, should cost you less than $20, and take less than 20 minutes to replace.
Mike
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Won't he lose all the refrigerant?
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07-19-2020, 04:35 PM
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#5
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official vendor
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alumarine
Won't he lose all the refrigerant?
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Well, if his AC quit working after being charged he's already lost enough to not allow the compressor to kick on. In order to do any repair correctly somone will need to drain the system, and start over once the leak is fixed.
Mike
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07-19-2020, 05:26 PM
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#6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MStudt
Well, if his AC quit working after being charged he's already lost enough to not allow the compressor to kick on. In order to do any repair correctly somone will need to drain the system, and start over once the leak is fixed.
Mike
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Thanks for the info. What I am hearing is that I have to take it to the shop to have the system drained regardless. Is that right?
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07-19-2020, 05:35 PM
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#7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by papabeach
Thanks for the info. What I am hearing is that I have to take it to the shop to have the system drained regardless. Is that right?
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Correct. It is probably just the o ring that is leaking. Humidity wrecks havoc on them (I live in the S.C. Lowcountry at the moment). Replace them around the low pressure port as well as the drier and expansion valve, grab a little PAG 46 for the oil, and then charge it.
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07-19-2020, 07:32 PM
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#8
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what are the instances where it is required to replace the dryer? Also, is there a timetable (no. of years) or mileage when to replace the dryer? will it improve cooling efficiency if a bigger dryer is used?
Quote:
Originally Posted by alumarine
That's where they would have added the R134a and dye so it might just be residue from that.
Or, it might be leaking from there.
They should have been able to find the leak.
To do it right they need to evacuate the system, pressure check it with nitrogen to find leaks, fix the leaks, pull a vacuum it and then charge it.
If anything needs to be replaced then you should get a new dryer as well.
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07-19-2020, 09:42 PM
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#9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HiluxSurf SSR-G
what are the instances where it is required to replace the dryer? Also, is there a timetable (no. of years) or mileage when to replace the dryer? will it improve cooling efficiency if a bigger dryer is used?
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You replace the dryer basically anytime you open the system which means there is a possibility for humidity to enter. You would not replace the dryer on its own. There is no need as long as the system remains sealed. The dryer is adequate for its job as sized. A bigger one would not make the system any MORE dry.
Remember, no dye system will pinpoint a leak in the evaporator, which can't be seen. I invested in a refrigerant detector, and it beats the crap out of working with dye. Even a cheapo will get the job done. The one I have (TIF) has more than doubled in price, but here is a cheapie. Evaporators are a common fail at the age of our trucks. I just had to do mine which was the first time my system has been open since new. Since I was in there, I did the expansion valve and all O-rings out to the firewall connection, plus the dryer, of course. So I have half a new system.
Amazon.com: Elitech HLD-200 Refrigerant Leak Detector Portable Gas Leak Detector Halogen Leak Detector Car HVAC Freon Leak Detector: Automotive
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Last edited by TheDurk; 07-19-2020 at 09:52 PM.
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07-20-2020, 06:53 AM
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#10
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The drier/accumulator will have oil trapped in it so you'll need to add the same amount of new oil, copied from another thread:
Use the following guidelines for replacing compressor oil when changing A/C components:
Compressor.........1.4 oz
Condenser..........1.0 oz
Evaporator.........1.5 oz
Accumulator........1.0 oz
Hoses..............1.0 oz
I just did a similar repair replacing all the components mentioned above last week on my Silverado when the high pressure switch literally blew apart at the seam while my truck was idling and I was standing near it, lost the entire charge in 1 shot.
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07-21-2020, 03:40 PM
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#11
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Quick update. Shop felt that the fluorescent tracer I photographed above was overspray from when it was added last time. They sprayed soapy water on both valves (L/H) and didn't see any leaks...not sure if this is a definitive way to test and/or if a valve can intermittently fail. Regardless, they charged the system back up to keep circulating the dye and said when the system stops cooling a gain to bring it back...next place to look is the evaporator behind the glove box. I would be curious to take a quick look before I take it back to see if I can locate the problem. Do I have to take any of the cooling unit apart to see the evaporator and where the lines come in? Or can I simply remove the glove box and everything is right there. Thanks!
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Supercharged, Lifted, Dual cased, Dual Locked, Geared, Armored and more...
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1979 FJ40L-KC
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07-21-2020, 03:43 PM
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#12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDurk
You replace the dryer basically anytime you open the system which means there is a possibility for humidity to enter. You would not replace the dryer on its own. There is no need as long as the system remains sealed. The dryer is adequate for its job as sized. A bigger one would not make the system any MORE dry.
Remember, no dye system will pinpoint a leak in the evaporator, which can't be seen. I invested in a refrigerant detector, and it beats the crap out of working with dye. Even a cheapo will get the job done. The one I have (TIF) has more than doubled in price, but here is a cheapie. Evaporators are a common fail at the age of our trucks. I just had to do mine which was the first time my system has been open since new. Since I was in there, I did the expansion valve and all O-rings out to the firewall connection, plus the dryer, of course. So I have half a new system.
Amazon.com: Elitech HLD-200 Refrigerant Leak Detector Portable Gas Leak Detector Halogen Leak Detector Car HVAC Freon Leak Detector: Automotive
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I am guessing this is where I will end up. Thanks for the link to the detector...just ordered it. Will see what happens. If it is the evaporator I might ask you for a parts list and where you sourced them and any other advice you can offer.
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1979 FJ40L-KC
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07-21-2020, 04:55 PM
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#13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by papabeach
I am guessing this is where I will end up. Thanks for the link to the detector...just ordered it. Will see what happens. If it is the evaporator I might ask you for a parts list and where you sourced them and any other advice you can offer.
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You want Denso part# 476-0019 for your evaporator. When you remove the evaporator you will need new O rings for the overspray area, so you will be killing two birds with one stone.
If it is indeed the evaporator the leak detector will pick up the refrigerant coming out of the vents, or at least out of the drain tube when the system is on, but definitely right after it is turned off.
Yep, remove the glovebox and move some wires around to get to it. I will let
@ TheDurk
go into more specifics about removal and installation. But thank you lucky stars the whole dash doesn’t need to come out. Just finished helping a friend with such last weekend on a Chevy Duramax. Beer wasn’t enough of a payment...
But maybe it will hold this time....
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07-21-2020, 05:35 PM
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#14
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Driers do fail with age. 300k mi mine did, took complete system with it.
New to me 01 got needed condensor and drier at 200k, next in 100k.
$25 for drier beats $1400 for system.
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07-21-2020, 06:47 PM
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#15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96RedRunner
Driers do fail with age. 300k mi mine did, took complete system with it.
New to me 01 got needed condensor and drier at 200k, next in 100k.
$25 for drier beats $1400 for system.
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I remember reading something like this. Was it you? I've read that the bag holding the decongestant fail letting the pellets circulate throughout the whole system thus ruining it.
If that was your post...I bought a new drier and plan to replace to avail what you have gone through.
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