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Old 08-11-2020, 01:18 PM #1
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PSA - If you live in the salt belt check your brake lines

Hi guys - I’m the middle of a 3 hour drive and I noticed a puddle of what I think is brake fluid under where my gas tank is. It looks like maybe a connector corroded and broke - thoughts?

I’m planning to drop the tank skid and see if I can get my hand up there to find out more




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Old 08-11-2020, 01:28 PM #2
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Better pic of the connector


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Old 08-11-2020, 02:15 PM #3
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Can’t get the tank skid off right now, does anyone know the deal with that connector?

I looked at a parts diagram but it’s kind of hard to tell where it is. Not sure if I’ll be able to find it at autozone

It looks like it would maybe be 47312 or 47313 according to this parts fiche







In the meantime I’m getting towed a few miles to an auto repair shop and I guess we’ll see what they quote me because I’m an hour from home and SOL. I’ve got my tools but don’t know if I can find that part.


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Old 08-11-2020, 02:24 PM #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnOfTheJungle View Post
Can’t get the tank skid off right now, does anyone know the deal with that connector?

I looked at a parts diagram but it’s kind of hard to tell where it is. Not sure if I’ll be able to find it at autozone

It looks like it would maybe be 47312 or 47313 according to this parts fiche







In the meantime I’m getting towed a few miles to an auto repair shop and I guess we’ll see what they quote me because I’m an hour from home and SOL. I’ve got my tools but don’t know if I can find that part.


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Old 08-11-2020, 07:57 PM #5
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What is your brake fluid level?

If you pump the brakes does fluid gush out?
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Old 08-11-2020, 08:00 PM #6
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47312 and 47313 is for the passenger front wheel brake line. The gas tank is on the drivers side. And I can see the drivers lower rear control arm front mount area.
There are 2 lines in that area that are probably leaking. The ones you may need are 47321, 47322, 47323 and 47324.
There is also a connector that the 2 lines front lines connect to the 2 rear lines, 47321D. Good luck
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Old 08-11-2020, 10:16 PM #7
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SOS - Need quick advice - Brake fluid leak mid trip

Quote:
Originally Posted by HiLife View Post
47312 and 47313 is for the passenger front wheel brake line. The gas tank is on the drivers side. And I can see the drivers lower rear control arm front mount area.

There are 2 lines in that area that are probably leaking. The ones you may need are 47321, 47322, 47323 and 47324.

There is also a connector that the 2 lines front lines connect to the 2 rear lines, 47321D. Good luck


Hah, crap you’re right! I was looking at the thing backwards, no wonder it was confusing me.

To answer the other question - when I noticed the leak the fluid was just below the min line and quickly formed a puddle about a foot in diameter. I didn’t drive it anymore except to load it on and off the tow truck. By the time I got towed home 2 hours later it was completely empty. Luckily there was just enough left to get it on and off the tow truck.

A quick anecdote about the tow - after I initially posted this thread I called a tow truck which took me to their shop, which was about 2 miles from the rest stop I was stuck at.

That tow cost $100. I decided I didn’t want to leave it at their shop and end up paying $120 more for diagnostic + whatever ungodly repair bill it would be, plus they couldn’t even look at it until tomorrow. We’re talking NYC prices and the place was the only shop around and next to a busy highway. So I would have been in a desperate situation and my guess would be $1k+ for their estimate.

Luckily I realized geico has roadside assistance so I got them to hook me up with a tow truck, towed me 40 miles home for $75. In short - I now love geico for saving me a $500 tow.

Back to the repair plans - I ordered 25 ft of copper 3/16” brake line, inverted m10 flare connectors (x10), inverted m10 Union couplers (x10), a tubing cutter, stainless steel wrap to protect the copper line, and an inverted flare tool.

I’m just going to run all new lines and either reuse the mounts where possible or zip tie them to the frame where not possible.

I don’t think I will be able to get my hand up there without dropping the tank, so I will probably just cut those old lines out and figure out a way to route the new ones.

Also ordered a new bell crank so I can fix my non-functional ebrake. If my brakes had gone out on the road I would have been screwed, so that’s getting done.

Also going to drop in a new (to me) brake booster since I think my old one was starting to go.

The upshot to this is ever since I replaced my third member a few months ago my brakes have been poor, despite multiple bleedings. I’m looking forward to getting under there and refreshing everything and having confidence in that system.


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Last edited by JohnOfTheJungle; 08-11-2020 at 10:24 PM.
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Old 08-16-2020, 12:47 AM #8
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SOS - Need quick advice - Brake fluid leak mid trip

Alright I spent the better part of the last 2 days ripping out the old hard lines, making my own lines and learning how to flare tubing.

Basically what had happened is my brake lines had totally corroded and the connector that’s next to the gas tank broke. So I went ahead and replaced all the hard lines from under the hood back.

I also upgraded to braided steel lines in the front, swapped in a new brake booster, and replaced the ebrake bell cranks, as well as adjusted the rear brakes.

Here’s a shot of the condition of the old lines



Here’s one of my newly flared lines



I did have some issues with the some apparent incompatibility with the new flared brake lines going into the old OEM parts. Connecting the new line into the brake actuator assembly just wouldn’t work, it kept cross threading and leaking. So I eventually just had to reuse the old line for that section.

After replacing all the lines I had to bench bleed my mc which I used a method from the FSM via @TheDurk then I bled, bled, and rebled all of the brakes. Couldn’t get a good pedal feel, but it seems that after adjusting the rear brakes I was finally able to get a good pedal feel and good braking power.

I’ll be keeping an eye on the brake fluid level and looking out for any drips over the next few weeks, but overall the operation was a success

Also while under there I got a good look at my fuel filler hard line and some of the other fuel lines. They’re bad...looks like that’s gonna be my next job


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Old 08-16-2020, 11:31 AM #9
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I always change the brake lines if they are starting to get rusty. Serveral of my rigs have new OEM lines on them as that is a safety issue. Glad you got your pedal back

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Old 08-16-2020, 12:06 PM #10
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PSA - If you live in the salt belt check your brake lines

Quote:
Originally Posted by brillo_76 View Post
I always change the brake lines if they are starting to get rusty. Serveral of my rigs have new OEM lines on them as that is a safety issue. Glad you got your pedal back

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If I could do it again I probably would have bought the OEM lines. Making and running my own lines is cool, but it seems like the tolerances are very tight and the female Toyota connection both at the soft brake line for the rears and at the brake actuator assembly gave me problems. They both seemed to cross thread, I had to chase the threads with an m10x1.0 tap and I’m not 1000% sure they’re totally sealing

Here’s a pic of that assembly -

I’m going to be keeping a very close eye on those spots to make sure I don’t have any seepage. May end up buying OEM lines for the longer lengths.


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