Trickle charge over days is the way to go. As 4 hour high amp chargers heat up the battery too much. Heat are the arch enemy of batteries. I got a 1.25 amp trickle charger that brought my batteries back to life. It was time for a new batt on situations where my trickle couldn't charge the batt. Question is how long has it sat with a low charge/dead.

After the last time I ran the NEW battery down, I had a Mexican auto supply place re-charge it. I gave specific instructions for them to do a very long slow trickle charge. In Mexico they call that a "drip charge". I was disappointed that I got a text message from them 2 hours later, telling me that my battery was ready.
Even though he showed me that the battery was now reading 12.1 volts, (immediately when he disconnected it from the charging machine), it could only start the truck 3 times before it was dead again.
It has now been 2 days since I tested it at zero volts.
Maybe I managed to kill my new battery ? Still under warranty, so tomorrow I'll see if they will give me another battery. However, this is Mexico so I'm not holding my breath.

If it's not reading high 13s when running, your alternator is toast.

When a battery goes dead, especially 0v dead, they are compromised if they do charge back up.

Modern electronic chargers won’t charge a battery at 0v.


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Thank you 19963. You saved me some money. I was about to buy a trickle charger.

You will need a charger that has a transformer in it to charge a totally flat battery.

You can trick a electronic charger into doing it. It requires you to parallel a good battery with the dead one. Then when it starts charging remove the good battery.


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Inconsistent voltage can most definitely cause stalling and other sensor and ignition issues. I'm pretty sure once you get your battery charged up or replaced you'll be good to go.

12.1V is not a fully charged battery. Any reading under 12.4 means the battery has discharged.

Another thing you can do with a dead battery is to hook it up in parallel to a known good battery with jumper cables. Let it sit for a couple hours to "equalize". Then you should be able to hook up the modern electronic chargers.

I actually did this at work with a fork truck battery that was totally dead. Our "smart" charger wouldn't charge it, the "bad battery" light would just come on. After I hooked it up with a jumper cables to another good battery we had laying around, our smart charger was able to start charging it.

That battery still works fine 6 months later. Having said that, if the battery is damaged, no amount of sorcery will bring it back.

Hopefully between cleaning the IAC and getting out and driving it to relearn some adaptive parameters you’ll be good to go.

Do you have a scanner that reads live data?

I’ve been successful cleaning the IAC in place by removing the vacuum hose underneath and shooting cleaner up into the IAC until no more black chunks come out. Then hole the throttle wide open and wipe out what you can reach with a rag soaked in cleaner.


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