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Old 08-17-2020, 12:12 AM #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Traveler74 View Post
No, not yet. I did buy a new oil pressure sensor sending unit and a large 24mm socket to remove the old one and install the new one. I'm on limited retirement money and I must buy things in stages.

Currently, I'm chasing a problem with the engine stalling at normal hot idle speed.
Looking for any possible vacuum leaks. Right this minute, the ****ing truck will NOT run if I take my foot off the gas pedal. Until I can fix that problem, everything else must wait.

Please, have patience with an old man who knows next to nothing about auto mechanics
An engine needs 3 things: Fire, Air, and Gas. Check to make sure your plugs/wires are getting fire then check your MAF sensor and throttle body (use cleaners), then last but not least your FUEL filter.
My bet right now, MAF or Throttle then throw this in the mix, fuel filter clogged.
Do a smoke test. Get a cigar and blow its smoke into the throttle. As you give it gas have someone or you look into the engine to see where it could be leaking (smoke).
I hope this helps!

PS:
Check your AIR filter!! If that is DIRTY or clogged, I bet it can cause it shut down too..
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Old 08-17-2020, 12:21 AM #17
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About the flush...

I have never been one for flushes unless it is for a radiator that is clogged. Dealers love to offer that service (high powered flush) to unknowing car owners and in the long run it is a cash cow when the there are issues with either the engine or transmission.

To be honest, our trucks should not need a flush. Just more frequent drain and fill. As mentioned above, Rotella Synthetic Blend is AWESOME.
Drain and fill. Use a good oil filter (Fram, Bosch, OEM Toyota, Purlator, K&N, etc.).
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Old 08-17-2020, 01:34 AM #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Traveler74 View Post

Please, have patience with an old man who knows next to nothing about auto mechanics
It’s all good. We’re friends here, just want to see you get it sorted.

We all have growing pains with new vehicles and most turn out ok.
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Old 08-17-2020, 09:29 AM #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ambush View Post
An engine needs 3 things: Fire, Air, and Gas. Check to make sure your plugs/wires are getting fire then check your MAF sensor and throttle body (use cleaners), then last but not least your FUEL filter.
My bet right now, MAF or Throttle then throw this in the mix, fuel filter clogged.
Do a smoke test. Get a cigar and blow its smoke into the throttle. As you give it gas have someone or you look into the engine to see where it could be leaking (smoke).
I hope this helps!

PS:
Check your AIR filter!! If that is DIRTY or clogged, I bet it can cause it shut down too..
I put a new air filter in and cleaned the MAF with CRC MAF cleaner. The only thing which seems to make sense right now is a dirty throttle body and/or the IAC. Truck starts right up but when it gets warmed up, THAT is when it shudders and stalls.
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Old 08-17-2020, 11:02 AM #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Traveler74 View Post
I put a new air filter in and cleaned the MAF with CRC MAF cleaner. The only thing which seems to make sense right now is a dirty throttle body and/or the IAC. Truck starts right up but when it gets warmed up, THAT is when it shudders and stalls.
Well we are here to help. Keep messing and let us know what changes you see or dont see.
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- s13we brake upgrade
New: 2001 4runner SR5 2wd (Silver Surfer) 213k miles! - WIP (looking for engine)
New: 1999 4runner Limited 2wd (KiTT) 577k miles!!!!!!!! - WIP!
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Old 08-17-2020, 02:25 PM #21
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Originally Posted by ambush View Post
Well we are here to help. Keep messing and let us know what changes you see or dont see.
Thank you, Ambush. I appreciate it. Half the time, when I'm working on the truck , I feel I'm in over my head, but I'm learning … SLOWLY !

I still have not located the grounding point for the alternator. I haven't the vaguest idea of where to look. OR is the alternator grounding point the engine block ???
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Old 08-17-2020, 02:29 PM #22
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Originally Posted by Traveler74 View Post
Thank you, Ambush. I appreciate it. Half the time, when I'm working on the truck , I feel I'm in over my head, but I'm learning … SLOWLY !

I still have not located the grounding point for the alternator. I haven't the vaguest idea of where to look. OR is the alternator grounding point the engine block ???
Best place to ground alternator is to the BODY of the truck. Clean area of paint and locate it there. Check my pix as I have done the BIG 3 upgrade.
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- s13we brake upgrade
New: 2001 4runner SR5 2wd (Silver Surfer) 213k miles! - WIP (looking for engine)
New: 1999 4runner Limited 2wd (KiTT) 577k miles!!!!!!!! - WIP!
Sold: 2000 4runner Limited 2wd 220k miles (idiot! i know)
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Old 08-18-2020, 04:03 PM #23
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Originally Posted by Traveler74 View Post
I still have not located the grounding point for the alternator. I haven't the vaguest idea of where to look. OR is the alternator grounding point the engine block ???
You've got it. The alternator grounds to the engine through it's mounting hardware. There is no special or separate ground on the alternator.
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Old 08-18-2020, 04:12 PM #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Devbot View Post
I constantly run a quart of MMO at all times, put in about 4qt of Rotella T6 and 1qt of Marvel. According to Marvel themselves it should cut the 5w40 to roughly that of 5w30 in that amount (believe it also says so on the back of the bottle how to calculate it). My initial reason for doing so was to help clean out some cooked oil in my valvetrain and generally clean out the system, and it's worked pretty well for it but it did take a 1-2 full OCI's to see any change.
Some people also use Gumout Multi-System in the oil but I've yet to do so. I believe it's only something like 1oz per 1qt or something real minuscule so I haven't tried it in that sense, but it does make a great fuel cleaner so maybe worth a shot.
You're only using 5 quarts of oil? I'm surprised that's getting you to the full mark on the dipstick
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Old 08-18-2020, 08:14 PM #25
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Yes sir believe I read it on here actually that it should be 5qts when I first bought the car. How come, what do you run/what's correct?
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Old 08-18-2020, 08:36 PM #26
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Yes sir believe I read it on here actually that it should be 5qts when I first bought the car. How come, what do you run/what's correct?
For the 5VZ-FE per the manual for an oil change with no filter replacement it is 5.2 quarts and for an oil change with a filter replacement it is 5.5 quarts. Obviously the more important thing is that you are in the correct range on the dipstick, but those are the numbers that Toyota says should put you in that correct range.
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Old 08-18-2020, 08:53 PM #27
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Oh, I thought we were talking a whole couple quarts or something. It could've been a tad over, can't really recall right now but I am gonna be due in the next month or two so I'll double check then
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Old 08-18-2020, 09:38 PM #28
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Are you getting codes? Check engine light?
I’ve seen failing injectors cause a stall once high idle goes down after start up. Would suck to have to do just after purchase but with nearly 200k can’t be ruled out.
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Old 08-18-2020, 10:55 PM #29
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Are you getting codes? Check engine light?
I’ve seen failing injectors cause a stall once high idle goes down after start up. Would suck to have to do just after purchase but with nearly 200k can’t be ruled out.
The oil low pressure light has gone out. No "check engine" light.

When I changed the oil, and filter, I needed 5 1/4 quarts.

At least temporarily the idle stalling problem has been cured. Had a semi-large hole on the underside of the flex air hose just prior to the throttle body.

I have no way to check for codes.

Last big problem is an engine noise which just started, AFTER I installed the new alternator. Will remove the belt and see if the noise stops.
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Old 08-18-2020, 11:34 PM #30
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Any auto parts store will scan codes for free, but that being said I highly recommend picking up a $20-50 OBDII from Amazon or HF. An actual unit, not a little ELM transmitter that pairs with your phone. They pay for themselves within a few uses.
In regards to the noise, sounds like the belt isn't tensioned properly.
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