It usually takes me 5.7 to get to the full mark on the dipstick when I change the filter as well. 5.1-5.3 when I just change the oil. I get free oil at work so I change the oil every 3k miles and filter every other oil change.

Been using the YZZD3 filter and 6 qts of oil, spot on the full line for 20 yrs.

Same here, though not for 20 years! (though 6 qts overfills mine by 0.1 to 0.2 quarts)

-Charlie

if I have understood correctly, Marvel Mystery Oil is mostly a detergent ???

Assuming I get all of the liquid oil out of the crankcase, and only the "baked on" black remains, how long is it safe to run MMO + 5W-30 ? Weeks? Months ?

Look up the msds or mds for it. It will give you all the ingredients by percent.

Stoddard Solvents is mineral spirits.


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Gotta be filter, you using YZZD1 "standard length" ? Both my Runners that way 6qt-Full line.
Been using Rotella T4 1 gal jugs, use 2qt measuring cup.

MMO is just mineral oil and white spirits, and in that order. I have yet to hear of any negatives coming out of running MMO long term besides pre-existing leaks getting worse, purely because it will thin out your oil and these people in question didn't compensate for it - Marvel even warns about this on the bottle, if I recall. Mind you, you should be addressing any significant oil leak already before you go adding snake oils to fix other problems. I can personally say I ran it constantly on my last truck and never had any bad come from it.
In regards to time it'll probably take a couple full oil change intervals before you notice any difference, but that's preferred - better to slowly dissolve it then go fast and hard, knock a chunk loose and get it stuck between a rocker and lifter.
You could also look into other additives like Seafoam or Gumout, that are advertised as being oil additives (on top of fuel additives) and contain things like naphtha or PEA, which works great against carbon and cooked oil. Or, as previously mentioned, BG EPR. Never tried it myself but people have praised it for decades.

I had to pull the intake manifold off my '96 today and, boy are the intake ports gummed up... at least an eighth of an inch thick. Would MMO engine flush help clean that out, or would it be better to use the regular MMO in the gas? Or both?

If you're looking to clean the carbon off your valves and ports, look into RedLine SI-1. Stupid good stuff. I ran a few bottles through upon getting my 4runner, and by the time I went through my knock sensor fiasco and took off the manifold a couple months later my valves didn't have a single speck on or near them. Also a big fan of the new BG44K Platinum, though I just use the fuel additive, not the "whole service package" gimmick. Gumout used to make some great cleaners (One n Done, All in One 2x Concentrate) but they've been discontinued and you gotta try and snag them off eBay or the like. Marvel advertises adding MMO to fuel to help free up injectors, but not much more beyond that, iirc
Just my $0.02

It is the D3 filter, but I do use a Fumoto drain valve (skid plates!) and might be missing the last little bit in the pan during the drain process.

-Charlie

Ok, I take it Fumoto threaded nipple extends into Pan, good to know,
I'll know I need to cut some thread off.