I need to buy/mfg the air intake hoses between the air cleaner/filter box and the body, where the air enters the system. ALSO, between the throttle body and the hard plastic air intake system. These are aprox 3 inches in diameter.

I would much prefer that they be made of thick but flexible rubber. Currently, the piece between the throttle body and the hard plastic air intake system is made of wire covered with thin flex plastic. Rather like an old fashioned slinky.

Sorry , I do not know the name of these pieces. I will continue to look for photos of what I need..

thanks for any input.

This is close to what I need, what is it called and where can I buy ?

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This is what a stock intake tube looks like.

Sounds like you have something else on there which could be causing a lot of your problems.

Options:

Go to a junk yard and pull the stock intake parts off of a junker. (buy used parts)

Buy all new parts

Buy an airraid intake tube kit.

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I need for a V-6.
The pieces I need are aprox 3 " long and the INTERIOR width is 2 5/8 inch AND EXTERIOR width is 3 1/8 inches.
Don't want to buy the entire thing (as in your photo) unless I have no other possible option. Hoping to locate a UNIVERSAL fit air hose. See my photo.

Intercooler Pipe Fabrication

Vibrant Performance ::.

From your other threads where you have expressed concern over passing smog, you should know that this is one of the things they may actually be checking with the visual inspection during the smog check. You should definitely be replacing the full thing, as turbo8 mentioned an air leak post MAF could be causing all sorts of problems for you. You can either go new OEM or junkyard OEM, but I wouldn't try and find a non OEM solution to this. If you go junkyard OEM, the part number turbo8 gave (17881-62091) is for 96-98 models only, which should be correct for your needs, but don't bother with 99+ models as they won't have the correct tubing for you. The airaid does have a CARB exemption order, and so it would pass smog (Make sure you put the CARB sticker on if you go this route), but it costs more than twice what the new OEM tube costs.

Here is the diagram Olathe Toyota site

Genuine OEM Air Intake Parts for 2000 Toyota 4Runner Limited - Olathe Toyota Parts Center

From his previous posts I believe he has a 96 rather than a 2000 which would make this the correct link.

I don't know what "airaid" is.

Just to be sure I understand you. Are you saying that if the flex air tube which fits over the intake for the throttle body is patched or I have some universal fit part, AND DOES NOT LEAK, CALIF SMOG WOULD FAIL ME ?

When I removed the entire air intake system, I found a hole on the underside of the flex air intake tube RIGHT BEFORE THE THROTTLE BODY big enough to stick my thumb into it. Temporarily, I patched that hole by winding black electricians tape around and around the entire flex portion. No way that is going to leak.
Yes, I'd certainly prefer to have the OEM part but Toyota charges an arm and a leg for that part. Being in Mexico, without any transportation, I might be able to find a Tijuana junk yard but heaven knows if they could ever understand what I want. Even with the correct part number.

To my displeasure, I've discovered that many, many places in Mexico dramatically over-charge me because I not Hispanic. Grr. It is not at all unusual for a Mexican to ask twice the price for an old used item as it would cost brand new.

A cleanly installed universal fit part (Assuming one exists that will allow all of the appropriate connections the stock tube requires) may pass the visual inspection, that will probably be a bit hit or miss depending on how thorough the technician is being with the inspection. Anything clearly performance oriented or otherwise obviously non stock (i.e. shiny new silicone intake tubing) will be given a closer inspection and will fail without a CARB sticker. An obvious repair to the intake tubing well done or not will be a fail on the visual inspection. I know because I have failed for a patched intake tube myself though not on my 4runner.

There is no end to fixing this 4 Runner I just bought. Buy parts, buy more tools to install the part(s) and another problem pops up.

The patch job on the air intake tubing cured the stalling problem at idle speed. Idle is now running between 650-750 RPMs .

Installed a new after market alternator and now there is a noise coming from the engine compartment. The faster I rev the engine, the faster the noise and the louder it gets. I can't really describe the kind of noise. But it is NOT a ticking sound, nor is it a heavy banging. It's kinda, sorta like rapping your knuckles on a table. ?????

I have not yet confirmed that the alternator is charging the battery.
I'll need to go and buy a volt meter ASAP.
EDIT: Just confirmed alternator IS working. Battery with engine OFF reads 12.8 volt.
Battery with engine running at idle reads 13.6. Rev the engine a tiny bit and it reads 14.1 volts.

But, that engine noise is freakin me out. I have a sick feeling this is damn serious. I'm about ready to throw in the towel and call it a total loss.

AirRaid is an aftermarket intake company. They make a CARB approved intake pipe that connects between the airbox and throttle body.

And yes, anything not OEM that is all all related to air or fuel between the air filter all the way to the end of the last catalytic converter is illegal in California unless specifically approved via a certification process through CARB. Often, you can sneak stuff through if it 'looks' factory, but that doesn't mean it is actually legal.

It sounds like you got a 4Runner that was hacked/patched together and otherwise poorly treated. Hopefully the problems will stop/reduce when you get to the bottom of it.

Regarding that alternator... hopefully it was a Denso brand part (or OEM Toyota) - basically all of the other 'rebuilt' options will have problems. Also check in the engine bay for interference issues (fan on fan shroud, belts, etc.).

-Charlie

Kinda hard to tell exactly where that noise is coming from. The noise was not there prior to changing the alternator. When I calm down, I'm going to un-tension the alternator and remove the belt. Then I'll know for certain if it is or is not the bearings in my new alternator.

In the meantime, I'm decompressing and making a big pot of Chili con carne.

Using a stethoscope, or a long screwdriver held to your ear, may allow you to pinpoint the source of the noise. It's difficult due to the roar of the fan, but once the engine warms up, the fan quiets down a bit.

I don't know jack about Cali smog, but the 'T' in my intake had a big crack in it when I bought it and I used black electrical tape for 2 years before I finally remembered to grab a new hose from a junkyard. No issues with leaking or Texas inspections.

For that coupler piece, if Cali doesn't mind, you can use a rubber coupler from your local hardware store like this:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/The-Plum...dalType=drawer
Use the OEM clamps and they might not notice.

Waa WAA !! J/K, your not the first to get pissed n walk away, your making headway with getting Idle fixed.

$1600.00 vehicles come in all flavors make lemonade.