08-21-2020, 04:41 PM
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#16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billyblunk3
If the thermostat was done then it was done by Toyota with the water pump.
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Dealer techs mess up the thermostat *all the time* - 99.9% of all other engines need the jiggle valve up other than the 5vz - and how often are dealers working on 5VZs, these days?
-Charlie
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08-21-2020, 04:42 PM
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#17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phattyduck
Dealer techs mess up the thermostat *all the time* - 99.9% of all other engines need the jiggle valve up other than the 5vz - and how often are dealers working on 5VZs, these days?
-Charlie
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Yeah makes sense. I’m going to check it this weekend.
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08-22-2020, 11:10 AM
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#18
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Im not sure where you live but the south west has been in a crazy head wave and temps have been way above average. Where I live its common to be 120 during the day and at those temps Ill see over 210 often but usually cools down when im driving fast and the rpms are up.
Just something to think about.
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08-22-2020, 12:42 PM
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#19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by calimobber
Im not sure where you live but the south west has been in a crazy head wave and temps have been way above average. Where I live its common to be 120 during the day and at those temps Ill see over 210 often but usually cools down when im driving fast and the rpms are up.
Just something to think about.
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I’m in southern Arizona. Yeah I see that as well but it’s usually higher like 220 area.
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08-22-2020, 02:41 PM
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#20
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Just last weekend I was driving uphill in the mountains in 100+ deg. My intake temp was 129 and my coolant temp only reached 205 deg. Check your cap and fan clutch. It shouldn't run that hot.
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08-22-2020, 04:19 PM
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#21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billyblunk3
...temps are above 100 outside. I was watch the “intake air temp” and the coolant temp. Intake air temp usually is around 120-130 and the. That’s when I see the higher coolant temps.
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using torque to monitor, in like and hotter conditions ,105 with 60% humidity, in central texas (air intake 135+), i can let the 4runner idle with a/c blasting ice cubes for an hour, gotta turn it down to next to lowest fan speed after 10 mins (while the old lady shops and I smog, hehe....) and engine coolant remains steady at 190-194 while slowly lowering the trans temps too.
That is why I say there is Something wrong, don't need a different type radiator, need properly working equipment is all. Let us know how that new cap does.....
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Last edited by jgue467; 08-22-2020 at 04:21 PM.
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08-22-2020, 04:50 PM
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#22
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Would be also good to check if your cooling system can hold the recommended 12.7 psi.
You could rent that pressure tool from Autozone or Orielly for a fee. You'll get all of the fees back when you return the tool. So basically its fee to check the pressure holding capacity of your cooling system/hoses.
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08-23-2020, 05:10 AM
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#23
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Been running the big 3-row Champion CC1998 here in phoenix for maybe four years now. Been good to me.
Imo, electric fans are inferior to the OEM fan. Check your fan clutch, replace your radiator, and you’ll be good to go
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08-23-2020, 09:30 AM
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#24
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Removing the electric flex-a-lite fan the previous owner put in and returning my system to stock was the best decision I made.
It adds to the reliability and simplicity of a 3rd gen where I felt the electric fans took away from that in a very critical area.
The fan blades on those electric systems are so thin. I shattered one going through some mildly deep water and it slashed open my radiator. Wouldn’t haven’t happened with the stock fan.
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Last edited by raKnizek; 08-23-2020 at 09:31 AM.
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08-23-2020, 03:30 PM
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#25
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Yea i'd replace everything that's been mentioned in this thread. Also i'd pick up this Lisle funnel if you don't already have it to help burp the system. Amazon.com: Lisle 24680 Spill-Free Funnel: Automotive I was having the same issue as you where it got up 211 on the freeway when it was about 100 degrees outside with AC full blast. I replaced the fan clutch and burped the system again. Park on the incline or jack up the front end first. I did that and had the heaters on and had quite a bit of bubbles come out. After all that I did the same stretch of freeway again in about 95 degree heat and it stayed between 191-195 with AC full blast.
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08-24-2020, 08:13 AM
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#26
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I’m grabbing a new cap after work today. I will update on everything tomorrow to see how things go.
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08-24-2020, 11:23 AM
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#27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billyblunk3
I’m grabbing a new cap after work today. I will update on everything tomorrow to see how things go.
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For the record I drove a lot of miles with an unpressurized cooling system and normal temps. All that cap does is prevent premature boiling if temps do run above 212f and it also keeps the radiator full.
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08-24-2020, 01:21 PM
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#28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 19963.4lsr5
For the record I drove a lot of miles with an unpressurized cooling system and normal temps. All that cap does is prevent premature boiling if temps do run above 212f and it also keeps the radiator full.
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Yeah, no. It is very important in the hot ambient temps he is seeing. Local hot spots in the engine will boil and cause problems, both short and long term. The only time I have seen high coolant temps was with a leaking (non-OEM, my mistake!) radiator cap, driving around Death Valley (~105*F ambient or so). Since then, even in those same temps with a good cap, no problems.
-Charlie
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08-24-2020, 01:45 PM
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#29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phattyduck
Yeah, no. It is very important in the hot ambient temps he is seeing. Local hot spots in the engine will boil and cause problems, both short and long term. The only time I have seen high coolant temps was with a leaking (non-OEM, my mistake!) radiator cap, driving around Death Valley (~105*F ambient or so). Since then, even in those same temps with a good cap, no problems.
-Charlie
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That’s ok. I’m just giving my experience. I’m in south central PA and I’ve never seen my coolant temps go above 191.
He is in the desert........
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08-24-2020, 01:47 PM
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#30
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I think I jinxed my e-fan. Right after talking about how great it's been, 2 1/2 years in the bearing seems to have gone out and it's makes a ton of noise! Time to see if it's under warranty... lol.
I agree completely about the mechanical fan being much simpler and reliable, even before my fan starting acting up.
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