08-25-2020, 10:41 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Monroe, WA
Posts: 2,197
Real Name: Devan
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Monroe, WA
Posts: 2,197
Real Name: Devan
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Adjustable Sway Links (?)
Hey all,
Like many of you I got some of MStudt's extended/adjustable sway bar end links, which I recently installed this weekend. However, I'm not exactly where to set these things - I took a gamble on the rear ones and it seems fine from what I can tell, but the front has a popping I just can't get rid of. When taking a turn, that side of the vehicle will pop respectively (so on a left turn, the drivers side will pop as the body weight rolls to the right, etc). Not a small pop either - loud and strong. Initially i thought the bolts were too tight, and the ones at the heim joints were visibly too snug so I loosened them a bit and now the pop isn't as sensitive, but still there the second you stop driving like a grandma. Currently I have the front links extended out a bit, but thought about taking them down as short as they can go and starting from there. (I have a Tundra TRD lift up front)
Any thoughts on how to properly set and adjust these links as needed?
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Y2K Highlander Millennium Silver 3.4L auto @ 320k and climbing
Toytecs + 5100s / 7.5 wrap + OME spacers + Tokicos / JBA UCAs / Anonymous Fab. LBJs / Total Chaos Gussets / EimKeith PCK + LCAR / Extended Bump Stops; Brake Lines; Rear Diff Breather / True North Fab. Hybrid Bumper / CBI Hybrid Bumper + Tire Carrier / 4xInnovations Hybrid Sliders / Opt Offroad Trailing Arms / Lil Skip Gas Skid / BudBuilt Front Skid / ARB Rear Locker
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08-26-2020, 12:13 AM
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#2
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Member
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Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Highlands Ranch
Posts: 332
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Highlands Ranch
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Hopefully MStudt would chime in.
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1999 T4R SR5 w/ ARB rear locker - Rocky
2018 T4R OR - Bear
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08-26-2020, 07:44 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Monroe, WA
Posts: 2,197
Real Name: Devan
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Monroe, WA
Posts: 2,197
Real Name: Devan
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I sent him a message a couple days ago but have yet to hear back and was curious if others could help. You'd think, for $200+, they'd come with SOME instructions but I guess not. So far, not very pleased with this drunk purchase tbh, but when they're cheaper and much heavier than an OEM set from McGeorge I guess it's not too bad, especially being rebuildable
Edit: I should clarify if i turn hard enough I actually do get a pop in the back as well, and the one of the pops up front feels almost directly under the driver seat, leading me to believe it's the links. Can't replicate it by rocking the vehicle tho
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Y2K Highlander Millennium Silver 3.4L auto @ 320k and climbing
Toytecs + 5100s / 7.5 wrap + OME spacers + Tokicos / JBA UCAs / Anonymous Fab. LBJs / Total Chaos Gussets / EimKeith PCK + LCAR / Extended Bump Stops; Brake Lines; Rear Diff Breather / True North Fab. Hybrid Bumper / CBI Hybrid Bumper + Tire Carrier / 4xInnovations Hybrid Sliders / Opt Offroad Trailing Arms / Lil Skip Gas Skid / BudBuilt Front Skid / ARB Rear Locker
Last edited by Devbot; 08-26-2020 at 09:14 PM.
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08-27-2020, 09:00 AM
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#4
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Member
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Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 431
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Raleigh, NC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Devbot
So far, not very pleased with this drunk purchase tbh,
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LOL'd at drunk purchase
I ran these and had the popping in the front as well. I couldnt do anything to make it stop. Eventually just decided to remove my entire front swaybar, and endlinks and test drive it. No more popping. Sway bar has been off of the front for 4 months now, and ill never put it back on. Drives amazing.
The rears are silent for me. You've got to get those really tight.
The only issue in the rear is that they're hitting my girthy boi Rokeman LCAs when offroading, which is OK by me
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2000 SR5 4x4 | Geared, Locked and Fully restored OEM+ build.
Forged and Cammed 1UZ Single Turbo, Standalone ECU + Built R150 in process. Why, you ask? Because it makes no sense in this platform, and I love it!
Last edited by WeakSauz; 08-27-2020 at 10:38 AM.
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08-27-2020, 11:58 AM
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#5
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Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Northern NM
Age: 26
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Join Date: Jun 2018
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Age: 26
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I've done the same. Had popping in the front, pulled the front off, been driving with it off for at least 10 months now. Would really love if there's some way I could make my 200$ purchase usable. Kinda do regret getting these.
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2000 SR5 - Build Thread
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08-27-2020, 11:07 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Monroe, WA
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Real Name: Devan
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Monroe, WA
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Real Name: Devan
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I thought about taking it off but I'm not sure about the body roll. I haven't heard anybody complain about popping with OEM links, so maybe these are too stiff and beefy?
Knowing how simple they are, I could make a lighter version at work and see if they fix the problem, if that's later determined to be the issue.
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Y2K Highlander Millennium Silver 3.4L auto @ 320k and climbing
Toytecs + 5100s / 7.5 wrap + OME spacers + Tokicos / JBA UCAs / Anonymous Fab. LBJs / Total Chaos Gussets / EimKeith PCK + LCAR / Extended Bump Stops; Brake Lines; Rear Diff Breather / True North Fab. Hybrid Bumper / CBI Hybrid Bumper + Tire Carrier / 4xInnovations Hybrid Sliders / Opt Offroad Trailing Arms / Lil Skip Gas Skid / BudBuilt Front Skid / ARB Rear Locker
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08-28-2020, 12:53 AM
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#7
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Member
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: SF, CA
Posts: 428
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Member
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I'm running the same Endlinks without any problems.
Have you adjusted them so that the Swaybar is parallel to the ground?
Are the jam nuts tight?
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1999 "Highlander" V6 4WD E-Locker || TRD Supercharger, URD 7th Injector, 2.2 Pulley || Toytec Aluma Series Boss Suspension, SPC A-Arms, Durobumps, Overland Endlinks || B&M Trans Cooler || 231mm Tundra Brakes, SS Brake Lines || 17" TRD Pro Wheels || BFG KO2 265/70R17-C || TRD Exhaust || 01-02 Tail Lights || Original Owner
Last edited by TRD 4RNR; 08-28-2020 at 12:58 AM.
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08-28-2020, 01:21 AM
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#8
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Member
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Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Highlands Ranch
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
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I had similar issues... popping in the front. They worked well initially but the popping in the front became unbearable so I reverted back to 2nd gen 4runner end links. I am wondering if I didn't adjust the height properly. I should have probably contacted MStudt. I like these end links and once I have some free time I would probably try to put them back.
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1999 T4R SR5 w/ ARB rear locker - Rocky
2018 T4R OR - Bear
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08-28-2020, 08:09 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: MS
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Real Name: Mark
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Herculean T4R
I had similar issues... popping in the front. They worked well initially.. I am wondering if I didn't adjust the height properly...
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They worked well initially they should again, unless damaged, Rod ends known for rotating.
It's my understanding parts need to be in correct sequnce/position, pic in post shows it search it.
From factory bar is parallel with frame rails at ride height. As you lift keep it parallel with frame, same with Panhard designed level keep it level.
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08-28-2020, 09:56 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Monroe, WA
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Real Name: Devan
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2020
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Real Name: Devan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRD 4RNR
I'm running the same Endlinks without any problems.
Have you adjusted them so that the Swaybar is parallel to the ground?
Are the jam nuts tight?
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Yes and yes. I'm wondering if maybe my bushing arent tight enough? How tight/squished should they be?
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Y2K Highlander Millennium Silver 3.4L auto @ 320k and climbing
Toytecs + 5100s / 7.5 wrap + OME spacers + Tokicos / JBA UCAs / Anonymous Fab. LBJs / Total Chaos Gussets / EimKeith PCK + LCAR / Extended Bump Stops; Brake Lines; Rear Diff Breather / True North Fab. Hybrid Bumper / CBI Hybrid Bumper + Tire Carrier / 4xInnovations Hybrid Sliders / Opt Offroad Trailing Arms / Lil Skip Gas Skid / BudBuilt Front Skid / ARB Rear Locker
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08-28-2020, 10:14 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: MS
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Real Name: Mark
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Devbot
How tight/squished should they be?
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I've torqued them to spec and beyond, beyond has worked better.
With whatever it takes to grab them I tighten till they won't turn, have yet to break one they stay in place.
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08-28-2020, 10:23 AM
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#12
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Member
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Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Raleigh, NC
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Raleigh, NC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Devbot
I thought about taking it off but I'm not sure about the body roll.
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As easy as it is to remove the front links, I say take them off and go for a test drive. I did this and I'm very glad I did. The IFS really takes bumps in the road better with it off, and rides smoother. Less vibration in the steering wheel, and the suspension is actually able to move independently.
Now, as far as body roll, it's going to be a personal preference, and it'll depend on your front spring rate.
I hardly noticed roll at all. Yes, it's there, but it's not like driving a tractor or something. In a way its more predictable.
__________________
2000 SR5 4x4 | Geared, Locked and Fully restored OEM+ build.
Forged and Cammed 1UZ Single Turbo, Standalone ECU + Built R150 in process. Why, you ask? Because it makes no sense in this platform, and I love it!
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08-28-2020, 12:34 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Monroe, WA
Posts: 2,197
Real Name: Devan
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Monroe, WA
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Real Name: Devan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96RedRunner
I've torqued them to spec and beyond, beyond has worked better.
With whatever it takes to grab them I tighten till they won't turn, have yet to break one they stay in place.
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Duly noted, will tighten them down before I leave work
Quote:
Originally Posted by WeakSauz
As easy as it is to remove the front links, I say take them off and go for a test drive. I did this and I'm very glad I did. The IFS really takes bumps in the road better with it off, and rides smoother. Less vibration in the steering wheel, and the suspension is actually able to move independently.
Now, as far as body roll, it's going to be a personal preference, and it'll depend on your front spring rate.
I hardly noticed roll at all. Yes, it's there, but it's not like driving a tractor or something. In a way its more predictable.
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I might give it a try one of these days. Currently I rub a little bit on my front fenders with a little recoil, so I might wait until I put my bumper on or else I'll really hit them
__________________
Y2K Highlander Millennium Silver 3.4L auto @ 320k and climbing
Toytecs + 5100s / 7.5 wrap + OME spacers + Tokicos / JBA UCAs / Anonymous Fab. LBJs / Total Chaos Gussets / EimKeith PCK + LCAR / Extended Bump Stops; Brake Lines; Rear Diff Breather / True North Fab. Hybrid Bumper / CBI Hybrid Bumper + Tire Carrier / 4xInnovations Hybrid Sliders / Opt Offroad Trailing Arms / Lil Skip Gas Skid / BudBuilt Front Skid / ARB Rear Locker
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08-28-2020, 11:55 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Monroe, WA
Posts: 2,197
Real Name: Devan
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Monroe, WA
Posts: 2,197
Real Name: Devan
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Tightened them up, not sure if it really made a difference. Currently my fender rubs my tire ever so slightly when bouncing/dipping hard through a turn, so it can be tricky to tell. I definitely still had some very strong, hearty pops driving home though, just not sure it they were any better than before.
Here are pics of the length they're set at and how parallel the bar is to the road. Or should it be tilted to match the upsweep in the frame, is that what you guys are saying? Perfectly flat ground here
Update: maybe these pics work?
__________________
Y2K Highlander Millennium Silver 3.4L auto @ 320k and climbing
Toytecs + 5100s / 7.5 wrap + OME spacers + Tokicos / JBA UCAs / Anonymous Fab. LBJs / Total Chaos Gussets / EimKeith PCK + LCAR / Extended Bump Stops; Brake Lines; Rear Diff Breather / True North Fab. Hybrid Bumper / CBI Hybrid Bumper + Tire Carrier / 4xInnovations Hybrid Sliders / Opt Offroad Trailing Arms / Lil Skip Gas Skid / BudBuilt Front Skid / ARB Rear Locker
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08-29-2020, 02:31 AM
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#15
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Member
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: SF, CA
Posts: 428
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Member
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Location: SF, CA
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What brackets are holding the inner part of the Swaybar to the 4Runner? Can you post a pic of those? I had some crazy sounds with the Energy Suspension brackets and when I switched them out for (Dorman 928-361) and got them good and tight that quieted things down a lot.
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1999 "Highlander" V6 4WD E-Locker || TRD Supercharger, URD 7th Injector, 2.2 Pulley || Toytec Aluma Series Boss Suspension, SPC A-Arms, Durobumps, Overland Endlinks || B&M Trans Cooler || 231mm Tundra Brakes, SS Brake Lines || 17" TRD Pro Wheels || BFG KO2 265/70R17-C || TRD Exhaust || 01-02 Tail Lights || Original Owner
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