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Old 09-02-2020, 10:38 PM #16
NJ-4Runner NJ-4Runner is offline
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Originally Posted by Doc3g View Post
Hopefully, you don't find out like I did when replacing the rack that the higher pressure hose assembly is shot b/c it's a $400 part from Toyota
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Originally Posted by CT135 View Post
Dude that is not what I wanted to hear! Lol
Decent quality aftermarket hose assemblies are available. I recently got a high pressure line from the manufacturer Gates and it was very good quality...and about $100. The low pressure line is basically a brake line with some rubber hose on the ends. You can get those for like $30 anywhere.
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Old 09-03-2020, 07:57 AM #17
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Originally Posted by NJ-4Runner View Post
Decent quality aftermarket hose assemblies are available. I recently got a high pressure line from the manufacturer Gates and it was very good quality...and about $100. The low pressure line is basically a brake line with some rubber hose on the ends. You can get those for like $30 anywhere.
If I had been doing it myself I probably would have looked for some other options, though, to be fair, the first set lasted for 21 years and 316K+ miles. Unfortunately, I had a shop doing it so it cost me $464 for the part and $207 in additional labor, bringing the total for replacing my leaking steering rack to just under $2k
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Old 09-03-2020, 01:17 PM #18
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So it is possible that the LCA bushings are the potential cause of the 4runner pulling right?
Putting new bushings on everything is probably a good idea even if I need to replace the steering rack later on.

Thanks for taking the time to make those videos. It's really helpful!

[QUOTE=mtbtim;3539887]If your rack isn't leaking, I wouldn't jump right into replacing the steering rack because it's quite pricey. An OEM rack that comes with inner new inner tie rods will run you around $500.

Get under the rig and have someone you trust not to run you over get in the driver seat, start the rig and turn the wheels back and forth while you're staring at the steering rack. If you see gross movement left to right, you're bushings are toast and it's time to replace them. But, I'm not not sold on the fact worn steering rack bushings are causing your pulling issue. I would also suspect worn lower control arm bushings like somebody mentioned.

I would advise you to not follow the suggestion of buying aftermarket control arms. People have shared horror stories of failures with these cheaper control arms. Even the OEM LCAs can fail from lots of abuse from hard 4wheeling so inferior LCAs is a bad idea. Same goes for aftermarket steering racks. Quite often, the aftermarket steering racks fail quickly forcing you to either pay for the labor to replace it again or you yourself has to get under the rig to replace it. A Lifetime Warranty might end up being a Lifetime of Misery for you having to repeat the same job over and over again. Buy OEM for important components like this because in the long run it's the smart choice.
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Old 09-03-2020, 02:06 PM #19
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Yes, it's possible worn LCA bushings are causing the pulling.

[QUOTE=CT135;3540319]So it is possible that the LCA bushings are the potential cause of the 4runner pulling right?
Putting new bushings on everything is probably a good idea even if I need to replace the steering rack later on.

Thanks for taking the time to make those videos. It's really helpful!

Quote:
Originally Posted by mtbtim View Post
If your rack isn't leaking, I wouldn't jump right into replacing the steering rack because it's quite pricey. An OEM rack that comes with inner new inner tie rods will run you around $500.

Get under the rig and have someone you trust not to run you over get in the driver seat, start the rig and turn the wheels back and forth while you're staring at the steering rack. If you see gross movement left to right, you're bushings are toast and it's time to replace them. But, I'm not not sold on the fact worn steering rack bushings are causing your pulling issue. I would also suspect worn lower control arm bushings like somebody mentioned.

I would advise you to not follow the suggestion of buying aftermarket control arms. People have shared horror stories of failures with these cheaper control arms. Even the OEM LCAs can fail from lots of abuse from hard 4wheeling so inferior LCAs is a bad idea. Same goes for aftermarket steering racks. Quite often, the aftermarket steering racks fail quickly forcing you to either pay for the labor to replace it again or you yourself has to get under the rig to replace it. A Lifetime Warranty might end up being a Lifetime of Misery for you having to repeat the same job over and over again. Buy OEM for important components like this because in the long run it's the smart choice.
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Old 09-03-2020, 03:52 PM #20
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Draging brake would cause it to pull to the side too. Make sure your passenger front and rear brakes are able to spin relatively free.
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Old 09-04-2020, 12:01 PM #21
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Ya I'm having the same issue where it drifts to the right. I changed my steering rack bushings, and it did get tighter, but it still drifts. I think the issue is that I never did a panhard drop and I have almost 5 inches of lift in the rear, so my rear axle is shifted to the right a little more than 1/4 inch. This could cause my pulling right?
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Old 09-04-2020, 12:16 PM #22
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Originally Posted by ArmArak View Post
Ya I'm having the same issue where it drifts to the right. I changed my steering rack bushings, and it did get tighter, but it still drifts. I think the issue is that I never did a panhard drop and I have almost 5 inches of lift in the rear, so my rear axle is shifted to the right a little more than 1/4 inch. This could cause my pulling right?

That needs adjust so it doesn’t “Bull Dog” and if that isn’t it it could be worn lower front bushings. My rig drives like a new car after replacing mine.


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Old 09-04-2020, 12:31 PM #23
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Originally Posted by 19963.4lsr5 View Post
That needs adjust so it doesn’t “Bull Dog” and if that isn’t it it could be worn lower front bushings. My rig drives like a new car after replacing mine.


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What do you mean by "bull dog"? Im going to make my own panhard drop this weekend and ill report back. If it doesnt fix it ill move on to the bushings haha.
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Old 09-04-2020, 01:38 PM #24
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I've got the panhard correction kit on my 4runner and it's drifting right. I think I'll just have to suck it up and replace the rack and LCA bushings.

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Originally Posted by ArmArak View Post
Ya I'm having the same issue where it drifts to the right. I changed my steering rack bushings, and it did get tighter, but it still drifts. I think the issue is that I never did a panhard drop and I have almost 5 inches of lift in the rear, so my rear axle is shifted to the right a little more than 1/4 inch. This could cause my pulling right?
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Old 09-04-2020, 02:51 PM #25
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Need new bushings or steering rack?

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What do you mean by "bull dog"? Im going to make my own panhard drop this weekend and ill report back. If it doesnt fix it ill move on to the bushings haha.

You ever see a bulldog walking down the sidewalk with its arse too the side. Where it’s butt doesn’t track it’s front legs?

In my area of south central PA we call a 4x4 that, where it’s rear axle is not in line with its front axle, bulldogging. it happens in the bulldog breed where they walk sideways.


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Old 01-07-2021, 04:20 PM #26
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It’s been a while but I wanted to update this for anyone searching with a similar issue... thank you for the suggestions about the lca bushings being the cause of my 4runner pulling to the right. I replaced the lca bushings (white line) and the steering rack bushings (energy suspension) and it drives perfect now. No new rack needed and less than $100 in parts.
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Old 09-02-2021, 04:26 PM #27
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I replaced mine with Energy Suspension bushings today and while I was torquing my bolts, the lower bolt which goes to the bracket gave out a significant *pop* and the bolt kept spinning after that - it was tight enough so I just left it. Is this a common problem for rustbelt trucks?

The rack is much tighter now but i'm curious if it's normal to have a very small amount of play. I'm talking about 0.75 inches of play when rocking it left and right.

* Not my picture but the bolt reference is there*
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Old 09-02-2021, 04:59 PM #28
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Originally Posted by FD7683 View Post
I replaced mine with Energy Suspension bushings today and while I was torquing my bolts, the lower bolt which goes to the bracket gave out a significant *pop* and the bolt kept spinning after that - it was tight enough so I just left it. Is this a common problem for rustbelt trucks?

The rack is much tighter now but i'm curious if it's normal to have a very small amount of play. I'm talking about 0.75 inches of play when rocking it left and right.

* Not my picture but the bolt reference is there*
I replaced my bushings because I had 3/4" of play.
Now I have virtually no play.
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Old 09-02-2021, 07:04 PM #29
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Originally Posted by FD7683 View Post
I replaced mine with Energy Suspension bushings today and while I was torquing my bolts, the lower bolt which goes to the bracket gave out a significant *pop* and the bolt kept spinning after that - it was tight enough so I just left it. Is this a common problem for rustbelt trucks?

The rack is much tighter now but i'm curious if it's normal to have a very small amount of play. I'm talking about 0.75 inches of play when rocking it left and right.

* Not my picture but the bolt reference is there*
A pop followed by the bolt spinning sounds like a broken bolt to me. If it were me, I'd remove the nut and bolt and pull the bracket off to check for what broke. I'd also be hoping for a broken bolt rather than pulled threads because it will be a lot easier to fix.
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Old 09-03-2021, 09:12 AM #30
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A pop followed by the bolt spinning sounds like a broken bolt to me. If it were me, I'd remove the nut and bolt and pull the bracket off to check for what broke. I'd also be hoping for a broken bolt rather than pulled threads because it will be a lot easier to fix.
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I replaced mine with Energy Suspension bushings today and while I was torquing my bolts, the lower bolt which goes to the bracket gave out a significant *pop* and the bolt kept spinning after that - it was tight enough so I just left it. Is this a common problem for rustbelt trucks?

The rack is much tighter now but i'm curious if it's normal to have a very small amount of play. I'm talking about 0.75 inches of play when rocking it left and right.

* Not my picture but the bolt reference is there*
That would be the captured nut breaking free of it's welds. As long as it's tight you are good for now, but if you want to fix it you'll have to cut open the bottom piece below where the captured nut is to replace the nut and/or weld in a new nut.
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Last edited by Bad Luck; 09-03-2021 at 10:10 AM.
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