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Old 09-11-2020, 01:15 AM #16
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I'm in for the kit. I'd love to say I would do the test run but I just don't have the time to get the fuel tank, coat the fuel tank, do the remaining mounts, and install it within a week.

Down at full retail though. Tell me where to send the money and I'm game for one. Thanks for putting this together!
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Old 09-11-2020, 09:49 AM #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Team_Jake View Post
Yeah, basically when I realized how much work it would take to cut, weld, fab everything into the F150 tank, I knew there had to be a better way. I hope to get my tank swapped soon.
With your kit what other tank modifications are still necessary to maintain evap/emissions components or filling function? I vaguely remember someone saying the F150 tank is a ventless fill and the 4Runner fill neck is vented.
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Old 09-11-2020, 01:08 PM #18
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Originally Posted by Bad Luck View Post
With your kit what other tank modifications are still necessary to maintain evap/emissions components or filling function? I vaguely remember someone saying the F150 tank is a ventless fill and the 4Runner fill neck is vented.
The F150 tank does not have an external vent and the 4Runner filler neck does. To make sure fill-ups are quick, either an internally vented filler hose needs to be used or a vent needs to be added to the tank.

I believe the easiest way to do this is to add a vent to the tank. This would require drilling a hole in the tank and welding a bung to attach a vent hose to. The Toyota filler neck and vent would be re-used in this case, and the filler neck would be cut to size and re-welded.



Again, I haven't installed my F150 tank yet, so it may be that adapting an internally vented filler neck is easier, I don't know.

Regardless, this kit only modifies the fuel pump assembly and does not make any modifications to the tank itself.
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Old 09-14-2020, 12:23 PM #19
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Coach, put me in for one.

Still debating if I will go plastic tank or steel in which case internal vented hose might be the way to go.

also, hi @eimkeith
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Old 09-14-2020, 02:03 PM #20
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Can you use the kit to run dual gas tank?
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Old 09-14-2020, 02:49 PM #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KimIsAGuy View Post
Can you use the kit to run dual gas tank?
The wiring would be a little different - you need to have some kind of switch at the split between the two wiring harnesses that go to each tank. The switch needs to isolate both the fuel pump and the sending unit of each tank so the fuel pump or sending unit on the tank that is not in use does not interfere. I'll leave that for you to figure out, but I don't see any reason why this kit wouldn't work in a dual tank setup.
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Old 09-14-2020, 06:22 PM #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrench.n.wheel View Post

also, hi @eimkeith
- 'sup!
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Old 09-27-2020, 04:35 PM #23
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Kits will be shipping out tomorrow!
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Old 11-29-2020, 12:47 PM #24
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Quote:
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I have a '96 but I'm buying a kit regardless.
Do keep us up to date when you start the project! I have a 96' as well and would love to follow along on the journey.
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Old 12-03-2020, 04:27 PM #25
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So who here has actually used this and installed it?

What did you do with your evap line, if you hooked it up to the EMS valve then did you get an internally vented fill neck?
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Old 12-03-2020, 04:50 PM #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrench.n.wheel View Post
So who here has actually used this and installed it?

What did you do with your evap line, if you hooked it up to the EMS valve then did you get an internally vented fill neck?
Good timing on this. I have the kit on my bench in the garage. Thinking it might be a good winter project but would love to hear from people who have installed it. cheers
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Old 12-03-2020, 07:14 PM #27
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Quote:
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Good timing on this. I have the kit on my bench in the garage. Thinking it might be a good winter project but would love to hear from people who have installed it. cheers
Cheers brotha.

I just placed the order for the tank, ems valve, lower straps and upper straps. Just looking for the cheapest OEM sender and need P/N for the Ford pump or high LPM equivalent.
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Old 12-03-2020, 08:46 PM #28
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TSB clarification

  • This kit is made for 1999-2002 4Runners, this kit will NOT work on 1996-1998 4Runners. Starting in 1999, Toyota switched to a digital odometer and the way the fuel sending unit works is by a digital reference from the dash, and the sending unit geometry and electronics completely changed. The bracket and wiring harnesses in this kit have been designed to only work with these 1999-2002 Toyota sending units. If you have a 1996-1998 4Runner and want your factory fuel gauge to work after swapping fuel tanks, I believe you can get your gauge to work (minus the low fuel light) by using a fuel calibration device (see Classic Instruments Fuel Link, MeterMatch Fuel Gauge Interface Module, or similar device).
  • The bracket only works with the Toyota Sending Unit P/N 83320-35590 (1999-2001 model years) or P/N 83320-35620 (2002 model year). Sometime in late 2000, Toyota had a service bulletin TSB EL010–00, which replaced the (sometimes defective) sending unit P/N 83320-35530 with P/N 83320-35590. The geometry changed between these two versions, the bracket in this kit is designed to fit the later version. So if you have a model year 2002, your OEM unit should work. If you have a 1999-2001 model year and had your vehicle serviced from TSB EL010–00, then your sending unit will work. Some 2001 model years will have the old unit and some will have the new unit, it depends on the production date. If you have a 1999-2000 model year and have not had your vehicle serviced from TSB EL010–00, you need to purchase the new sending unit (P/N 83320-35590).
[/QUOTE]

for this the TSB asks to replace a circuit board behind the speedo? Is that actually necessary? I have a 99 and I'm sure i have the older sender with the newer one on order
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Old 12-03-2020, 09:32 PM #29
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Quote:
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for this the TSB asks to replace a circuit board behind the speedo? Is that actually necessary? I have a 99 and I'm sure i have the older sender with the newer one on order
I don't believe you have to replace that circuit board. I say that because my 1999 4Runner was not part of the recall and the new sender works. But just to be sure, I suggest you "bench" test the new sender with your current gauge. To do this, remove the panel under your rear-driver-side seat, disconnect the wiring connector, and wire the new sender according to the wiring diagram I provided on the first page. Note that the sender needs to be grounded properly, so be sure to connect a wire from the metal bracket on the sender to somewhere on the body (a wire with alligator clips on both ends works well).

Please let me know your findings.

Edit: For some reason I assumed your 4Runner was part of the recall, but after re-reading your comment, you never said that. Again, my 4runner was not part of the recall and the new sender works, so I would think that yours will work without issue. I still suggest testing the sender before modifying it just in case something is wrong with it so you can return/exchange it.
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Old 12-08-2020, 10:57 AM #30
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So is there any space left to get in on this?
Thanks!
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