09-10-2020, 07:46 AM
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#1
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I’m pretty sure it’s dead Jim. Rear drivers lower link mount broke off frame.
This really sucks. Just got it how I want it. I’m sure this is fatal and non repairable
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09-10-2020, 08:16 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: West Bend, WI
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Senior Member
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 19963.4lsr5
This really sucks. Just got it how I want it. I’m sure this is fatal and non repairable
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Looks fixable to me. Why wouldn't you be able to fix it?
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1997 SR5 4x4 Auto, 99' tall coils up front, OME 906's, Truetrac LSD, Airaid MIT
1999 SR5 4x4 Auto for parts
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09-10-2020, 09:10 AM
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#3
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Frame swap'time.
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09-10-2020, 09:16 AM
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#4
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It's gonna take some fabrication but it's repairable. You'll likely end up having to cut more of the frame out so whoever repairs it has good steel to weld to. If you weld to rusting metal, it'll just fail again. This will also likely result in having to replace the body mount bracket as well, which by the looks of it wouldn't hurt to be replaced. What's the rest of the frame/area look like?
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09-10-2020, 10:16 AM
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#5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JWaldz
It's gonna take some fabrication but it's repairable. You'll likely end up having to cut more of the frame out so whoever repairs it has good steel to weld to. If you weld to rusting metal, it'll just fail again. This will also likely result in having to replace the body mount bracket as well, which by the looks of it wouldn't hurt to be replaced. What's the rest of the frame/area look like?
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That’s my worry. It’s got 281,000 miles on it and this failure was pure stealth. Rusting from the inside out. I’m Leary on how good the rest of it is.
Where it broke away from the frame should be clean metal not rust like it’s been cracked for awhile.
I need to figure out who to talk to to see if it can be fixed.
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09-10-2020, 09:55 PM
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#6
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Join Date: Apr 2020
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Real Name: Devan
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Any welder worth their salt can fix a basic frame crack - small cracks/splits are NOT the end of the world. Watch any video of someone fixing a barn find and they typically gotta touch up multiple parts of the frame. As said it's gonna need a little metal fab to ensure you have something to zap onto, but it's not like it's twisted or corroded beyond belief. If you're curious if any other spots are weak, smack around hard with a hammer - if you make a hole, it's shot. Redneck way of testing integrity but it's fool proof, somewhat.
PA is in the salt belt, yeah? Might be worth it to do a good inspection
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Last edited by Devbot; 09-10-2020 at 09:58 PM.
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09-10-2020, 10:20 PM
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#7
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In my exp when to see/find this type of rust damage it's not isolated and even if u fix ur current issue more will arise, U can not weld rust... anything can b fixed $ but is it worth the cost.
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09-10-2020, 11:47 PM
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#8
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Welding time, then I'd work on painting the frame 
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09-11-2020, 11:03 AM
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#9
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I’m pretty sure it’s dead Jim. Rear drivers lower link mount broke off frame.
A member suggested this for the repair. And I can weld mig and TIG and stick. I have a millermatic 130.
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09-11-2020, 11:10 AM
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#10
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Not the end of the world. Fix it if you like the 4runner
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2000 SR5 4x4 | Geared, Locked and Fully restored OEM+ build.
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09-11-2020, 12:14 PM
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#12
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I’ll need to drop the tank and axle and maybe the running board. I expect problems with the running board and gas tank.
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09-11-2020, 12:41 PM
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#13
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Join Date: May 2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 19963.4lsr5
I’ll need to drop the tank and axle and maybe the running board. I expect problems with the running board and gas tank.
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I never pulled the axle for welding. Would probably make it easier to repair. Running board and tank bolts will pita. Most running board bolts wont come out and snap along with a few tank bolts too. Watch bringing the tank down. As the plugs need unplugged from under the back seat plate. Careful not to catch any emmision houses. Being yours is not a 2001 or 2002 you have alot less hoses to deal with.
I mostly pull the tank return line as use my fuel pump to empty the tank. While you have that down. Check it all over with the filler tubes for issues.
That inner rail next to the tank will most likely be rusted out.
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7 3rd gens listed in the build thread (2 are parts mobiles)
Build Thread: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...os-builds.html
Brillo's Bucket Fluid Ex changer: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...ml#post3358086
Sparks Plugs Wire and Coil Information: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...on-5vz-fe.html
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09-11-2020, 07:45 PM
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#14
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If you're anal like most I'd recommend a 220 welder, I used a Lincoln 120 at my house for my panhard correction brackets and it was unnecessarily shitty. Still got proper penetration, barely, but MAN does it look sloppy
Just my 2 cents
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Y2K Highlander Millennium Silver 3.4L auto @ 320k and climbing
Toytecs + 5100s / 7.5 wrap + OME spacers + Tokicos / JBA UCAs / Anonymous Fab. LBJs / Total Chaos Gussets / EimKeith PCK + LCAR / Extended Bump Stops; Brake Lines; Rear Diff Breather / True North Fab. Hybrid Bumper / CBI Hybrid Bumper + Tire Carrier / 4xInnovations Hybrid Sliders / Opt Offroad Trailing Arms / Lil Skip Gas Skid / BudBuilt Front Skid / ARB Rear Locker
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09-11-2020, 07:53 PM
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#15
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Elite Member
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Devbot
If you're anal like most I'd recommend a 220 welder, I used a Lincoln 120 at my house for my panhard correction brackets and it was unnecessarily shitty. Still got proper penetration, barely, but MAN does it look sloppy
Just my 2 cents
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Extremely good advice. Its alot harder to weld 1/8 plate with 120volt welder. Yes you can do it. However, its alot easier and better welds with a 220 volt welder as your amperage will be a lot higher and easier to do.
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7 3rd gens listed in the build thread (2 are parts mobiles)
Build Thread: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...os-builds.html
Brillo's Bucket Fluid Ex changer: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...ml#post3358086
Sparks Plugs Wire and Coil Information: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...on-5vz-fe.html
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