Currently have a popping in the front end that I can't seem to figure out for the life of me, if anybody has any ideas. I've found out it's the sway bar links making the sounds, or at least contributing to it as once they're removed the pops stop, but nothing about it seems like it's due to the sway bar.

-Overland Custom Designs extended sway bar links + TRD lift up front
-MStudt confirmed they are properly adjusted for my lift
-Firm noise and can be felt through the pedals
-Only happens when the wheel is turned left. Never right
-Pop comes from the passenger wheel
-Happens at roughly the same spot in turning the wheel
-Doesn't happen at a dead stop but does happen at low speeds (5-10mph)
-Initially only happened with a bit of body roll, but now happens with none at all or very little
-Happens when the weight/body shifts front-back as well
-Happens in 4WD and 2WD
-Used to be triggered by bumps in the road, big and small, but rarely now
-Can't seem to replicate it by rocking the vehicle or with the front end on jacks
-Mounting brackets/bushings for sway bar are brand new
-Tried adjusting the links to slightly longer/shorter lengths, only seemed to get worse both ways

Idk all these things sound/feel like it's possibly my ball joint popping (do have an OEM set), but the fact that it all stops once the links are out really throws me for a loop. Would removing the links maybe add or relive tension off the LCA in a way that could be related to this? These links and bar don't exactly do a complex job, so my only guess would be the heim joint is the source but that seems fairly unlikely as it moves very smoothly.
Any input is appreciated, shit's driving me nuts. I tried to list all that I could about it.

inb4 "just take it out." I REALLY don't care for the body roll, especially with high COG and ~1.5" of rake, and my drive to work is nothing but windy roads.

I can't offer any advice but will follow this thread as I seem to have an identical issue - a pop when backing into the driveway from the street, with the steering wheel fully cranked to the right and the body rolling quite a bit on the uneven terrain (seems like it happens when the passenger side front tire gets unloaded as the weight shifts to the back driver side).

I had a popping sound that was due to the sway bar linkage failing and finally giving out. My symptoms sound pretty similar to yours prior to getting it fixed.

I have a similar issue.

Had quite a bit of popping noise a few weeks back. I ended up replacing the upper and lower ball joints (I am at 230K miles and looked like they needed to be replaced). That got rid of almost all the problems.

However, I still have 1 popping noise. I swear I can feel it in my break pedal.
It does not happen when I am driving straight into my drive way. It's when I am turning, especially if there is an incline (speed bump, etc.).
Someone told me that it has to do with the sway bar links. I replaced them earlier this year. I also replaced the bushings in the front and back sway bar links.

That noise is infuriating.

My next step is to remove the sway bar link and drive around the block without it. If noise is gone, I can concentrate my search on those components. If the noise continues, I will have to take it to a mechanic.

All the results I get online point that direction but they're brand new and quite strong

frame to cabin mounts --- the ones near the driver's / passenger's feets.

I experienced a rhythmic popping related to speed while turning on my Acura, turned out to be a worn outter cv joint on the cv shaft.

I had a very similar noise before. Replaced my CVs and noise went away.

When my sway bar bushings go bad I get a bad squeak, not a clunk...

LBJ.

Had the same thing happen in my Tacoma before it failed.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'll start by disconnecting the sway bar, that's easy enough to try.

I thought about the CV axle, but I thought that makes more of a clicking sound, not just a single pop?

My LBJ's have less than 30K on them, OEM Toyota, so I doubt that's my culprit.

OP I battled popping clunking with my links from @MStudt for a bit. Part of my problem was I wasn't tightening my jam nuts down enough. That was causing the clunking sound. Once I got that figured out I had a pop over speed bumps or poorly paved/maintained roads. I noticed you didn't mention in your list about lubricating the heims. I was using spray dry Teflon type lubes and wasn't seeing improvement. I finally hit them all with liquid tri flow dry felon lube using the little applicator stray. Drove around the block so things would move allowing it to spread through the heims due to movement. Since then no popping. I would try that since the removal of sway links makes the noise go away. You may also be able to wiggle the link by pulling and pushing on it while parked and replicate the pop. I was able to track down which link was the culprit that way. Otherwise did you mess with sway bar brackets themselves during install? Are they tightened and have no play?


Good luck.

Hate to say it but I think this was nearly it - wasn't tightening down the heim joint bolt enough. Makes sense, as I was deliberately avoiding putting a bunch of pressure on it, and would explain why the popping was barely consistent as I'd never tighten it down precisely the same way after removing/reinstalling them. Gave it an extra turn today before I left work until it was fairly tight, and the sound went away like magic. Even went back to some gravel roads that really triggered the popping and the links were dead quiet.
To boot I just noticed the rear sway bar is asymmetrical so I adjusted the links accordingly back there and things seemed to have silenced up additionally (had a popping in the rear too but it wasn't even half as bad as the front)
Don't wanna speak too soon but sounds pretty good so far. Probably still gonna take the time to do my LBJs and possibly UCAs too in the coming months, I'd feel a lot safer with them replaced anyways.
I'll remember what you said about the lube, as one of the joints is strangely becoming stiff/sticky already. Not sure why but I'm keeping an eye on it

Thanks for all the help guys. Hopefully this can help someone out in the future. Anybody else feel free to use this as a discussion for your own mystery pops and clunks

Are you also using MStudt's links? I found that because the bar is asymmetrical, the links need to be set to different heights accordingly.
I don't know what the HELL Toyota was thinking, because it's askew by a full 1-2in and it looks like nonadjusting links like OEM wouldn't work, but if you look it up it's certainly the norm and can find plenty of people rightfully confused if it got tweaked or not. It's pretty ridiculous, as one side will be well clear but the other it damn near touching the trailing arm.

No, I'm running the longer 2nd Gen rear links up front.