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Old 07-22-2019, 11:41 AM #1
Sarki Sarki is offline
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KYB Shock Install Question

Completed front Shock & Spring replacement this weekend, OEM springs and KYB shocks & KYB strut mount.
Attached photos for reference of parts that came with the KYB Shock (one large rubber bushing, one small rubber bushing, two large metal retainers/washers and one small metal retainer/washer).
Installed as follows with shock assembly inside center of compressed spring:
*Slid black plastic shock cover onto shaft and over top of shock
*Placed large metal retainer/washer on shaft on top of black plastic cover, concave facing up to rest on underside of strut mount rubber.
*Placed new strut mount on top of shock
*Placed large rubber bushing onto top of strut mount assembly.
*Placed the second large metal retainer/washer over rubber bushing and secured with nut.

I did not use the remaining small rubber bushing and corresponding small metal retainer/washer as there was some disagreement as to whether it was needed and/or where it belonged.

One thought was the small rubber bushing and metal retainer/washer should be placed on the shaft of the shock before sliding the black plastic cover over the shock.

What do you guys think.....
Attached Images
KYB Shock Install Question-cd9d09e1-4930-4361-aec4-0623c697e0eb-jpg  KYB Shock Install Question-0a342893-41e0-4623-b288-f655c5dd9420-jpg  KYB Shock Install Question-f9f9bca2-1e9c-4c6c-9da4-5582b872e4df-jpg  KYB Shock Install Question-7244e8ee-8467-43d4-8b2e-13e9b2aed58a-jpg 
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Old 07-22-2019, 11:54 AM #2
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I didn't use it. I assumed it was to replace the bushings on the top hat. The replacement tops I used had bushings preinstalled on the bottom.
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Old 07-22-2019, 12:47 PM #3
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That was my exact thought as well but seeing that extra bushing sitting there on my work bench made me start to question myself as well as my buddy saying I messed up.
Now to figure out how to best access that top nut in order to remove and replace those rear shocks.........yikes!
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Old 07-22-2019, 02:25 PM #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sarki View Post
That was my exact thought as well but seeing that extra bushing sitting there on my work bench made me start to question myself as well as my buddy saying I messed up.
Now to figure out how to best access that top nut in order to remove and replace those rear shocks.........yikes!
Remove the spare tire so you have some room, then do this:



-Charlie
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Old 07-22-2019, 08:37 PM #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phattyduck View Post
Remove the spare tire so you have some room, then do this:



-Charlie
Easier said than done if his NY truck is rusty lol.

Removing the spare is a big help.

OP, if the top of the shock is a rusted blob use a socket + ratchet (handle up against the frame) on top to hold it in place & turn the shock body with large vice grips. Or just cut the foocker off like I did in 2015, couldn't even get a socket on the disintegrated nuts.
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Old 07-22-2019, 10:08 PM #6
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I should have cut mine. After fighting the passenger side for what seemed like an hour, the shaft finally broke off.
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Old 07-22-2019, 10:15 PM #7
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Thanks to both Charlie & Scramble for advice on the rear shocks.
That picture is great but as Scramble pointed out, the salted roads of the northeast are not kind on the hardware that holds these rigs together.
Eventually had to resort to vice grips turning the shaft of the shock while wedging a flex head ratchet with deep 14mm socket on that top bolt....not much fun but victory has been had.
Unfortunately snapped one of the stabilizer end links so need to order replacement.
I normally go OEM with parts but at $70 a pop thinking about alternatives.
Anybody have any recommendations or just suck it up and order two new ones online from Conicelli.
Still trying to strong arm those springs off the rear diff housing on my own. Followed Timmy the tool man video, I guess i need another set of hands to pull down on the axle as I wrestle the spring off it’s perch.
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Old 07-23-2019, 07:01 AM #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sarki View Post
Thanks to both Charlie & Scramble for advice on the rear shocks.
That picture is great but as Scramble pointed out, the salted roads of the northeast are not kind on the hardware that holds these rigs together.
Eventually had to resort to vice grips turning the shaft of the shock while wedging a flex head ratchet with deep 14mm socket on that top bolt....not much fun but victory has been had.
Unfortunately snapped one of the stabilizer end links so need to order replacement.
I normally go OEM with parts but at $70 a pop thinking about alternatives.
Anybody have any recommendations or just suck it up and order two new ones online from Conicelli.
Still trying to strong arm those springs off the rear diff housing on my own. Followed Timmy the tool man video, I guess i need another set of hands to pull down on the axle as I wrestle the spring off it’s perch.
AutoZone will rent a spring compressor set for free, makes it a piece of cake. They also sell a two pack of universal links for $25 that work great. You only need a couple of eyebolts to make them work.
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Old 07-23-2019, 10:01 AM #9
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Quote:
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AutoZone will rent a spring compressor set for free, makes it a piece of cake. They also sell a two pack of universal links for $25 that work great. You only need a couple of eyebolts to make them work.
What a difference a day makes!
Back in the garage first thing this morning with a fresh brain.
Got to thinking about Timmy The Tool Man’s video install on front struts/springs and his use of the bottle jack to push down the UBJ to assist in aligning the lower bolt on the front strut.
Took same approach and used the bottle jack to raise one end of the rear differential which in turn lowered the other end enough to pull the each rear spring out one at a time.
45 minutes later with a bit of wiggle and massage had the old ones out and new ones in.
Didn’t want to wait for a helper, just wanted to Get R Done!
Thanks for the advice, much appreciated.
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Old 07-23-2019, 12:53 PM #10
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Loosen the links and pivots! It'll all go very easy at that point. No need for a helper or bottle jack to make clearance (unless you are putting in REALLY long rear springs).

Whenever you change ride height, you should be loosening and re-tightening all rubber bushing pivots at the new ride height to avoid constant stress on the bushings.

-Charlie
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Old 07-30-2019, 01:02 PM #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sarki
Completed front Shock & Spring replacement this weekend, OEM springs and KYB shocks & KYB strut mount...
how's the ride? i keep going back and forth between a complete OEM setup and this setup you just put in with OEM springs and KYB gas-a-just struts. my 3rd gen is a 2wd and will never see more than a fire road so i think ive decided that Bilsteins even 4600's are overkill.
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Old 07-30-2019, 03:47 PM #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by socalkid View Post
how's the ride? i keep going back and forth between a complete OEM setup and this setup you just put in with OEM springs and KYB gas-a-just struts. my 3rd gen is a 2wd and will never see more than a fire road so i think ive decided that Bilsteins even 4600's are overkill.
I have OEM-like coils (a tiny bit stiffer) and KYB Gas-a-just shocks. They are stiffer than stock but very on-road capable. However, if off roading is never in your future then go pure OEM. They are the softest ride and still are decent off-road. For the casual adventurer, nobody complains that stock 4Runner suspension isn't good enough off-road!

When it comes time for me to refresh the suspension in roughly 70k miles, I'm going to switch to pure OEM I think. Still debating though since I like how it rides now.
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Old 07-30-2019, 10:54 PM #13
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Quote:
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how's the ride? i keep going back and forth between a complete OEM setup and this setup you just put in with OEM springs and KYB gas-a-just struts. my 3rd gen is a 2wd and will never see more than a fire road so i think ive decided that Bilsteins even 4600's are overkill.
Very happy with my install of KYB struts/Shocks front & rear paired with the KYB upper mounts in front and factory/OEM springs front & rear.
Vehicle height is perfect and quality of the ride is spot on as a daily driver. It is much improved over my original factory setup with 180K miles.
I also replaced the stabilizer bar end links front and rear.
I was tempted to purchase OEM Shocks vs. the KYB but the price difference was substantial and there were many favorable reviews regarding the KYB’s.
No regrets, would do the same if I had it to do again.
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Old 07-31-2019, 03:26 PM #14
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You're lucky you got your rears apart. Mine fused together, so I had to cut mine out which is difficult on and of itself and I was doing it on a lift. Problem I had was where I could cut was a little low on both sides and I got a shock oil geiser out of both. Six cans of brake clean later and several rags, I was back on business. Bye uniforms got replaced too....win, win!
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Old 07-31-2019, 04:52 PM #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sarki View Post
Very happy with my install of KYB struts/Shocks front & rear paired with the KYB upper mounts in front and factory/OEM springs front & rear.
Vehicle height is perfect and quality of the ride is spot on as a daily driver. It is much improved over my original factory setup with 180K miles.
I also replaced the stabilizer bar end links front and rear.
I was tempted to purchase OEM Shocks vs. the KYB but the price difference was substantial and there were many favorable reviews regarding the KYB’s.
No regrets, would do the same if I had it to do again.
cool, thanks for the feedback.

didnt think to do the end links but it makes sense, maybe the bushings too.

i know you did the mounts in the front too im guessing cus you switched to the KYBs but even if i did OEM i was gonna do the upper supports in the front and probably the spring seats in the rear too.
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