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Old 10-02-2020, 08:06 AM #16
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Sounds like lower control arm bushings. Its hard to check them with the coilovers attached as there is always pressure on the bushings. Either look up how to check them with a pry bar or remove the front suspension. You won't be able to check with just your hands. Better to do this before an alignment or as been advised, bring it to a shop that knows what they are doing
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Old 10-02-2020, 09:56 AM #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jgue467 View Post
It may be an 'artifact' of the road but its a Feature of this vehicle to not handle road bumps too well and 'bounce' off the intended path. Kinda of like when you turn onto and thru railroad tracks, the rear end jumps a bit to one side as it hits the tracks, nbd. Luck.
I'm am curious how much of what I'm feeling is just how the truck handles and how much is that there's something wrong.
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Old 10-02-2020, 09:57 AM #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by St Runner View Post
Sounds like lower control arm bushings. Its hard to check them with the coilovers attached as there is always pressure on the bushings. Either look up how to check them with a pry bar or remove the front suspension. You won't be able to check with just your hands. Better to do this before an alignment or as been advised, bring it to a shop that knows what they are doing
I was prying on the control arms with a pry bar but it was on the ground. I haven't been able to find anything on how to check these bushings in particular but I've seen some things on general suspension bushing checks. I should probably do it with the car on stands though.
Been having some trouble finding an alignment shop I'd trust. Yelp is a confusing place.
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Old 10-02-2020, 10:31 AM #19
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Went for a drive last night. My wife drove while I was trying to notice symptoms and I noticed a clunking noise/feeling coming from somewhere as we were driving some winding back roads. It would happen every time she would turn into a curve. I could feel it in the seat, like it was coming from underneath, but I'm wondering if it could be lower ball joints.
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Old 10-02-2020, 11:31 AM #20
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If the lower ball joints were that loose your tire would be half off. Definitely put the tire up in the air to test the control arm, then you only have the compression of the springs applying pressure. What happens is the rubber in the bushings become broken and worn, but the weight of the vehicle and the compression of the springs keep the inner part of the bushing compressed against the bottom of the outer core. Everything seems to work fine until you hit a bump and the inner part of the bushing shifts. Key signs of the control arm bushings being worn is that it is unidirectional, it can go any direction depending on which way it is leaning. Brake problems usually pull in one direction
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Old 10-02-2020, 11:35 AM #21
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Also a good idea to check your Tie rods and steering rack bushings. Both front wheels off the ground and pull and push the wheels at 9 and 3 o'clock
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Old 10-02-2020, 12:06 PM #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by St Runner View Post
If the lower ball joints were that loose your tire would be half off. Definitely put the tire up in the air to test the control arm, then you only have the compression of the springs applying pressure. What happens is the rubber in the bushings become broken and worn, but the weight of the vehicle and the compression of the springs keep the inner part of the bushing compressed against the bottom of the outer core. Everything seems to work fine until you hit a bump and the inner part of the bushing shifts. Key signs of the control arm bushings being worn is that it is unidirectional, it can go any direction depending on which way it is leaning. Brake problems usually pull in one direction
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Also a good idea to check your Tie rods and steering rack bushings. Both front wheels off the ground and pull and push the wheels at 9 and 3 o'clock
This all makes sense. I figured checking it on the ground probably wasn't a productive thing.

I did do the tie rod 3/9 o'clock shake when I was looking at the front brakes recently and didn't notice any excessive play.
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Old 10-03-2020, 05:15 PM #23
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Lifted the front of the car and shook each wheel at the 12/6 and 3/9 positions. Both felt tight. Driver's side made a very slight "tink" sound at the 3/9 position but I couldn't isolate where it was coming from and I couldn't detect any movement. I pulled on the outer tie rod fwd/aft and couldn't repeat the sound or detect movement. Pulled in/out on the inner tie rod and couldn't repeat sound or detect movement from either the tie rod or from the rack itself. Took the wheel off and couldn't repeat the sound it was making with the wheel on.

Checked the lca and uca bushings with a pry bar. I could get some minor movement fore/aft that rebounded but couldn't get them to move radially in any direction...although there weren't many pry points for up/down movement. You can see the movement in this video.

lca bushing movement - YouTube

Pried between the knuckle and the ball joint and between the ground and the tire and couldn't get any movement there.

I'm curious if the "tink" sound might point to a wheel bearing. But I would expect that to occur in the 12/6 direction as well as the 3/9 if the wheel bearing was bad.

I guess my next step is taking it to an alignment shop. Someone that's seen more of these would probably have a better sense of what could be bad. But I'm also open to the idea that I might just need to get used to how this thing handles and try to forget how my A4 handles.
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Old 10-05-2020, 10:14 AM #24
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Quote:
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I'm curious if the "tink" sound might point to a wheel bearing. But I would expect that to occur in the 12/6 direction as well as the 3/9 if the wheel bearing was bad.
A bad wheel bearing will make a groaning/humming noise that gets louder the faster you go.
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Old 10-10-2020, 08:23 AM #25
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Iíve changed most everything on front end. Had bad pul left & right upon braking, crazy unstable braking over bumpy conditions etc.

new on my rig, poly sway bar, end link, steer rack bushings, rack guide, inner/outer tie rods etc.

last wk upper control arm bush, oem - made noticeable difference, actually all the above made noticeable difference.

Yesterday, new lca bushings, whiteline, far and away the best thing Iíve done to date. Braking issues gone, steering play gone, truck tracks true and makes the original struts and coils feel 10yrs younger.

As someone else said you canít really check bushings on vehicle, but everyone with original lca bushings should chg them asap. Also note, I live in rust belt capital of North america and bottle jack method didnít even come close to working and I had a steel clamp on them trying to prevent arms from spreading and had to take them to a shop.

thatís my experience/2cents
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Old 10-10-2020, 10:22 AM #26
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Quote:
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I’ve changed most everything on front end. Had bad pul left & right upon braking, crazy unstable braking over bumpy conditions etc.

new on my rig, poly sway bar, end link, steer rack bushings, rack guide, inner/outer tie rods etc.

last wk upper control arm bush, oem - made noticeable difference, actually all the above made noticeable difference.

Yesterday, new lca bushings, whiteline, far and away the best thing I’ve done to date. Braking issues gone, steering play gone, truck tracks true and makes the original struts and coils feel 10yrs younger.

As someone else said you can’t really check bushings on vehicle, but everyone with original lca bushings should chg them asap. Also note, I live in rust belt capital of North america and bottle jack method didn’t even come close to working and I had a steel clamp on them trying to prevent arms from spreading and had to take them to a shop.

that’s my experience/2cents
This is good info. How much of it do you think is the poly bushings and how much do you think is just that everything was worn out? Did you have noticeable wear or play in anything you took off?
I'm generally not a fan of poly bushings but maybe I should rethink that stance.
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Old 10-10-2020, 10:54 AM #27
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So I've watched this video a few times now and I can't wrap my head around something. I don't understand why @mtbtim couldn't use a ball joint press with the screw on the outside of the control arm. Meaning, couldn't you put a cup that fit around the bushing on the outside of the control arm and one that fit inside the bushing hole on the inside of the control arm and then just set it up so that the screw was outside of the control arm? Like this. That would eliminate the need for using a bottle jack or having an arbor press. Is there something special about the geometry of the control arm that prevents this from being an option?
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Old 10-10-2020, 04:00 PM #28
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check back shocks

I had a rear passenger shock rust through and the truck would jump around going over bumps, being near the exhaust speeds up the rust process. Grab both rears and shake them around to see if they are loose.
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Old 10-11-2020, 01:04 PM #29
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Sounds to me as someone else stated before. Check your control arm bushing both front and rear.


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Old 10-11-2020, 02:18 PM #30
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Shocks and shock mounts look good.
Rear trailing arm bushings look good.
Panhard seems solid.
Can't detect any play in rear u-joint.

My money is on tires for now. Might try swapping fronts and rears and seeing if the vibration feels any different. Also need to get a grease gun and hit the driveshaft since I have no idea how good the last owner was about greasing them.

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