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Old 08-01-2021, 06:27 PM #16
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Originally Posted by diverscale View Post
Just prepare to get dirty a little and undo the lower radiator hose once it's not fast enough by the drain plug. You'll drain more and it'll go faster
I am in the process of the first "rinse" with distilled water. Luckily I'm already dirty.

This time the draining is going a lot faster than the first. No idea why, but I'm not complaining. ChrisFix said start it up and give it some gas to have the water pump help vacate the fluids. Not sure I want to do that, but hey, it might make a good story. (and a fine mess...)

Still better than spending $192 at the dealer!
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Old 08-01-2021, 09:27 PM #17
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Originally Posted by vonhughes View Post
I am in the process of the first "rinse" with distilled water. Luckily I'm already dirty.

This time the draining is going a lot faster than the first. No idea why, but I'm not complaining. ChrisFix said start it up and give it some gas to have the water pump help vacate the fluids. Not sure I want to do that, but hey, it might make a good story. (and a fine mess...)

Still better than spending $192 at the dealer!
careful with ''rinsing'', as you won't ever get all the water out after the fact. So, calculating your coolant concentration is impossible because you don't know how much water dilluted with coolant is left in there. Just keep that in mind.

You could use Antifreeze Refractometer for Glycol, Antifreeze, Coolant and Battery Acid. Antifreeze Tester for Measuring Freezing Point of Automobile Antifreeze and Battery Fluid Condition. : Amazon.ca: Industrial & Scientific

Never used any of these as I just flush with premix and never have to worry about mixing thereafter.
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Old 08-02-2021, 12:51 AM #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by diverscale View Post
careful with ''rinsing'', as you won't ever get all the water out after the fact. So, calculating your coolant concentration is impossible because you don't know how much water dilluted with coolant is left in there. Just keep that in mind.
Yeah, this made things exciting.

My owner's manual says the capacity for my 2002 (sans rear heater) is 8.5 quarts. I got 8 out during the drain (both the initial coolant drain and the "rinse") so I calculated .5 quart of some fluid left in there that was anywhere from .5 quart of 100% distilled water to some diluted version of distilled water @ .5 quart. I'm assuming it was more water than coolant at that point. I did some guesstimating in Excel and figured I was probably in a ratio range between 52:48 to 48:52, distilled water to Toyota Red.
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Old 08-02-2021, 11:37 PM #19
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Your numbers (8 qts out vs. 8.5 capacity) roughly jive with my experience. I got most of it out though only the drain petcock. The key is to let it drain for a full hour or more, until the little dribble really stops. I think having the jiggle valve at 6 o'clock may be the key to why so much comes out with just a passive drain job.
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Old 08-03-2021, 01:29 AM #20
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Sorry to bring this thread back from the dead, but my question seemed to jibe with many of the comments in this thread.

Draining the radiator right now on a stone cold engine. It has sat 12+ hours. I've watched all the videos, know the procedure by heart...

I have my container ready and opened the valve on the passenger side and barely anything came out. I'd call it a drizzle at best. I knew there were some risks in opening her all the way, but the suspense was killing me, so I decided to risk it, since I had cardboard underneath and a "tall boy" container to limit the mess.

When I opened her up all the way, to the point I actually removed it, there was an instant gush, which I captured without a mess, then a small stream. 40 minutes later, I am back to a drizzle with only five (5) quarts out, per the marks on the receiving container.

I see about that some people have left it up to an hour. Is this normal?

I do have the radiator cap totally off so air can move around as it needs to and the garage floor is pretty damn level. Not sure it's perfectly level, but it's close.

I know the videos everyone posts are edited for time/content, but man, seems like a quart every eight minutes with the valve totally out is pretty pokey. Am I just being an inpatient radiator drainor?

p.s. Looking inside the radiator cap area, the internals look brand spanking new. Shiny as heck. I know the radiator was replaced about 40K miles ago. Fluid looks orangey color and not so bad. Just draining to prepare for a cross country trip in a couple of weeks.
Once the radiator is drained, it can take a long time for the coolant to drain from the block. The only way out is a small jiggle valve on the thermostat that I normally would let drain overnight if I haven't torn down to the thermostat. If you are trying to flush the entire system, you'll need to remove the thermostat. Or find the mythical engine block drain bolts. Seriously, I've had engines on the stand and I still can't find those things after it's been caked in 25 years of road grime.

It is hard to get all the coolant out. It's not only in the engine block but also the heater core inside the vehicle and if you have the rear heater, another half quart or so in the lines and the rear heater that's under the passenger's side seat.
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Old 08-03-2021, 11:59 AM #21
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Originally Posted by vonhughes View Post
Yeah, this made things exciting.

My owner's manual says the capacity for my 2002 (sans rear heater) is 8.5 quarts. I got 8 out during the drain (both the initial coolant drain and the "rinse") so I calculated .5 quart of some fluid left in there that was anywhere from .5 quart of 100% distilled water to some diluted version of distilled water @ .5 quart. I'm assuming it was more water than coolant at that point. I did some guesstimating in Excel and figured I was probably in a ratio range between 52:48 to 48:52, distilled water to Toyota Red.
I'm not sure if anyone suggested it or if you are using it, but a spill free funnel and parking on an incline helps a lot with purging all the air from the engine cooling system.

Something like this is what you're looking for: Amazon.com: OEMTOOLS 87009 No-Spill Coolant Funnel Kit, Near Universal Fitment, Translucent, 15 Piece Set, Cooling System Funnel Allows Access To Hard-To-Reach Radiators: Automotive
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Old 08-03-2021, 05:05 PM #22
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Originally Posted by Bad Luck View Post
I'm not sure if anyone suggested it or if you are using it, but a spill free funnel and parking on an incline helps a lot with purging all the air from the engine cooling system.

Something like this is what you're looking for: Amazon.com: OEMTOOLS 87009 No-Spill Coolant Funnel Kit, Near Universal Fitment, Translucent, 15 Piece Set, Cooling System Funnel Allows Access To Hard-To-Reach Radiators: Automotive
Yes, I did end up getting that OEM funnel from Amazon. It kicks ass! Wifey ordered it up for me and it took < 48 hours to arrive thanks to Prime.

Happily I have a decent incline backing out of my garage, so I did take advantage of the air "going up" as Tim said in his video.

I was able to get 8 quarts out during the initial drain, and also the "rinse cycle" so I feel like I had the tools and patience to get damn near everything out, without trying to find those two drain bolts for the engine block. Met my objective of trying to make the situation better to excellent, rather than dying on the hill of perfection!

Happily I've seen the engine and tranny temp drop a couple of degrees since the swap out, so I'm happy.

One question for anyone who reads this...when the engine is at operating temperature (180+ Fahrenheit) how close to the "FULL" line in the overflow res should it be? After a 15 mile drive today, mine was about dead center between the low line and the full line. Is that enough or should I add a little more into the container to get it up to the top line?
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Old 08-03-2021, 05:16 PM #23
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One question for anyone who reads this...when the engine is at operating temperature (180+ Fahrenheit) how close to the "FULL" line in the overflow res should it be? After a 15 mile drive today, mine was about dead center between the low line and the full line. Is that enough or should I add a little more into the container to get it up to the top line?
I like to fill it to the hot line on the overflow tank after driving for a half hour or so. This way I know for sure where my coolant level is when I recheck it.
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Old 08-03-2021, 05:31 PM #24
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I like to fill it to the hot line on the overflow tank after driving for a half hour or so. This way I know for sure where my coolant level is when I recheck it.
Nice.

Does the overflow tank pressurize like the radiator itself? Just trying to determine when it's reasonable to have the reference point of filling it up when it's hot enough to refill to that line, but not hot enough to turn me into Nikki Lauda.
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Old 08-03-2021, 05:33 PM #25
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Nice.

Does the overflow tank pressurize like the radiator itself? Just trying to determine when it's reasonable to have the reference point of filling it up when it's hot enough to refill to that line, but not hot enough to turn me into Nikki Lauda.
LOL The overflow tank isn't pressurized so you can adjust at any time
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Old 08-03-2021, 06:55 PM #26
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Originally Posted by diverscale View Post
careful with ''rinsing'', as you won't ever get all the water out after the fact. So, calculating your coolant concentration is impossible because you don't know how much water dilluted with coolant is left in there. Just keep that in mind.
Eh, the exact coolant mixture isn't that important. More water = more ability to remove heat (good in hot weather), more coolant = more ability to avoid freezing (good is cold weather). Anywhere between 40-60% coolant will get you down the road just fine in most of the lower 48.

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Old 08-03-2021, 11:41 PM #27
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up here we run about 60% +...need to be good to minus 50 in winter
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Old 08-04-2021, 02:24 PM #28
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up here we run about 60% +...need to be good to minus 50 in winter
I did a couple nights of -15-20*F years ago with a car that had about 35% antifreeze in the engine. Crossed my fingers when I finally went to start it up. Luckily no issues. Temps below 0*F are rare, even in the high sierras...

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