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Old 11-05-2020, 09:40 AM #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HeisenBob View Post
Sorry to hijack thread but I’m new and cont post new thread yet...my truck is a 2001 v6 2wd

I replaced my drive shaft and I also have a bzzzz/hum but mine starts at 40-50pmh and gets louder more pronounced the faster I go. I replaced upper ball joints and wheel bearings about 20k miles ago. One side was tighter than the other and was hard to turn by hand until I reinstalled on the car. It was still a little tight and had some drag but freed up some. I had them pressed in at the dealership in Midland, TX. I’ve also done the TBU and cut a liberal amount of the dust covers off to make room for the calipers. I’m wondering if the dust covers are my problem. But I don’t remember the buzz being an issue after installing the bigger brakes.

Side note: the other other day when leaving work, after reversing out of my parking spot and shifting into drive, the car acted like it didn’t want to go forward. It rolled forward slowly and the RPMs revved up but the car had no acceleration. I stoped and shifted through the gears and tried again. There as a slight lag and then off I went without issues. Hasn’t done that again since.
First thought brake sticking or dragging. Emergency brake not adjusted properly. Lift the truck and spin the wheels at a good clip and listen. Apply the brakes then spin again. Check for smooth rotation and noises.
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Old 11-05-2020, 09:48 AM #17
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Originally Posted by spartacus View Post
First thought brake sticking or dragging. Emergency brake not adjusted properly. Lift the truck and spin the wheels at a good clip and listen. Apply the brakes then spin again. Check for smooth rotation and noises.
I spun the wheels when changing the oil last weekend and they spun freely but there did sound like there was a slight drag. Not a grinding noise or anything but just a slight drag. I inspected the pads and they looked like there was 99% of the pad left. I mean those suckers were thick. Almost touching the rotor thick.

The ebrake should be good, I had this problem prior to replacing the rear brakes about three months ago.
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Old 11-05-2020, 09:53 AM #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HeisenBob View Post
I spun the wheels when changing the oil last weekend and they spun freely but there did sound like there was a slight drag. Not a grinding noise or anything but just a slight drag. I inspected the pads and they looked like there was 99% of the pad left. I mean those suckers were thick. Almost touching the rotor thick.

The ebrake should be good, I had this problem prior to replacing the rear brakes about three months ago.
Make sure your bell cranks are moving freely. Does the noise change when turning while at speeds?
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Old 11-05-2020, 12:48 PM #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HeisenBob View Post
Sorry to hijack thread but I’m new and cont post new thread yet...my truck is a 2001 v6 2wd

I replaced my drive shaft and I also have a bzzzz/hum but mine starts at 40-50pmh and gets louder more pronounced the faster I go. I replaced upper ball joints and wheel bearings about 20k miles ago. One side was tighter than the other and was hard to turn by hand until I reinstalled on the car. It was still a little tight and had some drag but freed up some. I had them pressed in at the dealership in Midland, TX. I’ve also done the TBU and cut a liberal amount of the dust covers off to make room for the calipers. I’m wondering if the dust covers are my problem. But I don’t remember the buzz being an issue after installing the bigger brakes.

Side note: the other other day when leaving work, after reversing out of my parking spot and shifting into drive, the car acted like it didn’t want to go forward. It rolled forward slowly and the RPMs revved up but the car had no acceleration. I stoped and shifted through the gears and tried again. There as a slight lag and then off I went without issues. Hasn’t done that again since.
Wheel bearings generally get worse/better when turning (depending on direction you turn). The driveshaft is a fairly strong vibration and might change with going on/off the gas. Cutting the dust shield up front is a non-issue (it doesn't rotate). Brake pads will always be right next to the rotors - it is a self-adjusting system that always leaves the pads 'ready' to engage. Ball joints would be a shake, not a buzzz/humm noise.

Check your trans fluid level and condition (when warm/hot). Truck still idling in park, on a flat surface, shift through all gears (P-R-N-D-2-1-2-D-N-R-P) slowly, then check the fluid level (engine still on, trans in park). Make sure the fluid has at least some red color left (not dark brown or black) and is in the 'hot' range on the dipstick.

-Charlie
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Old 11-05-2020, 03:08 PM #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phattyduck View Post
Wheel bearings generally get worse/better when turning (depending on direction you turn). The driveshaft is a fairly strong vibration and might change with going on/off the gas. Cutting the dust shield up front is a non-issue (it doesn't rotate). Brake pads will always be right next to the rotors - it is a self-adjusting system that always leaves the pads 'ready' to engage. Ball joints would be a shake, not a buzzz/humm noise.

Check your trans fluid level and condition (when warm/hot). Truck still idling in park, on a flat surface, shift through all gears (P-R-N-D-2-1-2-D-N-R-P) slowly, then check the fluid level (engine still on, trans in park). Make sure the fluid has at least some red color left (not dark brown or black) and is in the 'hot' range on the dipstick.

-Charlie
Trans is good. I replaced the filter and replaced all the fluid via the Tim method about 3 months ago. I failed to mention that there is a slight vibration in the steering when at highway speeds. The wheel doesn’t shake, just vibrates. Taking the car out of drive and shifting into neutral makes no difference in the noise and vibration.

Additional work includes: aligning the front end, balancing the tires, timing belt change with the kit, new plugs and wires, and resealed the valve covers.

Oh, I’m at 103k mileage.
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Old 11-05-2020, 03:10 PM #21
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Originally Posted by Bad Luck View Post
Make sure your bell cranks are moving freely. Does the noise change when turning while at speeds?
What’s a bell crank? Noise is constant at speed. Hard to notice on city roads but on a stretch of road or highway it’s noticeable at 50+
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Old 11-05-2020, 03:32 PM #22
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Originally Posted by HeisenBob View Post
What’s a bell crank? Noise is constant at speed. Hard to notice on city roads but on a stretch of road or highway it’s noticeable at 50+
Part of the parking brake mechanism
https://www.google.com/search?q=site..._AUoAHoECAEQAA
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Old 11-05-2020, 06:45 PM #23
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Originally Posted by Bad Luck View Post
Part of the parking brake mechanism
https://www.google.com/search?q=site..._AUoAHoECAEQAA
I replaced the rear brake pads about 2-3 months ago but I don’t remember seeing those. Doesn’t mean they aren’t there, just don’t remember them. If they were seized, how would that cause my issue?
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Old 11-06-2020, 10:13 AM #24
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I replaced the rear brake pads about 2-3 months ago but I don’t remember seeing those. Doesn’t mean they aren’t there, just don’t remember them. If they were seized, how would that cause my issue?
They are located on the back of the rear backing plate assemblies on the side closest to the rear bumper. Every stock 3rd gen has them. If they don't move freely and get seized after you apply the parking brake, then when you release the parking brake handle the rear parking brake is still engaged. This can cause rear brakes to drag and could cause a vibration or pull depending on if one or both seized.

Does the noise sound like it's coming from the front or back?
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Old 11-06-2020, 10:38 AM #25
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Originally Posted by Bad Luck View Post
They are located on the back of the rear backing plate assemblies on the side closest to the rear bumper. Every stock 3rd gen has them. If they don't move freely and get seized after you apply the parking brake, then when you release the parking brake handle the rear parking brake is still engaged. This can cause rear brakes to drag and could cause a vibration or pull depending on if one or both seized.

Does the noise sound like it's coming from the front or back?
Gotcha. Noise is coming from the front. I feel the vibes in the steering wheel and even in my seat. That’s why I replaced the drive shaft. It came with new non-greasable ujoints.
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Old 11-06-2020, 11:08 AM #26
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Gotcha. Noise is coming from the front. I feel the vibes in the steering wheel and even in my seat. That’s why I replaced the drive shaft. It came with new non-greasable ujoints.
Since you're 2wd the only rotating assemblies you have up there are wheel bearings, tires, and wheels. I would be willing to bet that they pressed one of the wheel bearings in wrong and that's your problem. You can try rotating tires and seeing if it changes any.
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Old 11-06-2020, 03:07 PM #27
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Since you're 2wd the only rotating assemblies you have up there are wheel bearings, tires, and wheels. I would be willing to bet that they pressed one of the wheel bearings in wrong and that's your problem. You can try rotating tires and seeing if it changes any.
That’s what I’m thinking as well. Really pisses me off because I pointed it out to the tech but he said it was normal. I should have stuck to my guns and made them redo the work.

I’ve rotated rebalanced the tires with no improvement.
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Old 11-06-2020, 04:02 PM #28
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Side note: the other other day when leaving work, after reversing out of my parking spot and shifting into drive, the car acted like it didn’t want to go forward. It rolled forward slowly and the RPMs revved up but the car had no acceleration. I stoped and shifted through the gears and tried again. There as a slight lag and then off I went without issues. Hasn’t done that again since.
Rear brakes sticking due to gear oil contamination??
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Old 11-07-2020, 12:28 PM #29
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Rear brakes sticking due to gear oil contamination??
Rear brakes are new. I didn’t see any oil bake there when I changes them out.
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Old 11-10-2020, 06:01 PM #30
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So.... I had the same issue. Took it to Discount Tire to check the balance. The guy told me that Toyotas have this complaint all the time with the 10 ply tires. They rebalanced (for free even) and it has helped noticeably. There is still a slight vibration but more more tolerable. They use the roadforce balancer at that shop.
Here's a link to help you find a shop that has the proper balancer. https://www.hunter.com/find-equipment/?
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