Do you have any issues in the winter getting the transmission up to temperature? I bypassed mine but the coldest temperature I've ever put it in was 25 degrees, not exactly freezing.

Prior to installing a new oem radiator I ran cooling system cleaner and distilled water and flushed every other day until I was satisfied(my cooling system was filthy at 225k when I bought it). That gave me more piece of mind installing the new radiator and not worrying about the milkshake. I ran my cooler in series with the radiator to avoid any warm up temp issues. And I also replaced the lbj's because the previous owner had just done it to sell the rig, but he had used aftermarket ones and I wasn't comfortable with that.

For the radiator, it's not just the pink milkshake that's a concern. The plastic tanks get very brittle with age and can literally disintegrate at a moment's notice.

I was once removing the upper radiator hose on my dad's '01 Camry, and the upper fitting simply came off with the hose as I was trying to twist it off, took almost no effort.

Bypassing the trans cooler would not address this concern. I always replace these radiators at 10 years or 100K.

Just noticed this now (sorry to hijhack a thread). My 4Runner makes a small squeak when making a decent turn (and going through a speed bump). Is this a symptom of a bad ball joint. My rig has 220K on the original ball joints (i think).

I know I gave out advice, but now I hear a squeak when turning. It's small though.

How do i check for lower ball joint play?

Got my 4Runner back today. New OEM LBJ's are in.

Not sure if this would be pure placebo-effect, but to me it feels like it "drives tighter" or such. That realistic? My mechanic said they showed no signs of wear. He also said he owned a 3rd gen that went 300k on the originals.

The procedure involves jacks, blocks and a dial indicator. It's a pain and very hard to get good readings. Most of us will only be able to see gross slop. A LBJ at the limit will be very difficult to spot as the limit is no play.

This is the reason that it is generally recommended to replace them on a schedule. How much of a gambler are you?

FWIW, my original OEM LBJs had detectable play (and were replaced) at under 100,000 miles. I seem to be unusual in this as most go much higher, but again, how much you want to risk?

Using the FSM procedure tells the whole story, I tweaked procedure for quick inspection a go-no go thing. Jack a tire off the ground don't need to remove tire, or lift both off ground by jacking from under front diff. Use pry bar in the right spot,
if you can see movement with the naked eye you are beyond needing LBJ's, max play is .020".

What MY was this with ?
96Red went many miles, 01 @198k naked eye test failed.
I wonder at times if Toyota around 99 or so changed the cast iron formula to get 3rd gens off the road or just saving dollars.
With you on risk factor, I Like the Runner getting hard to come by, don't want to deal with this on side of the road.

Very early 96 so not a lot of mileage but years.

The replacements are at 100,000 km and about 8 years and still look good. I'll change them out again in a few years, I have a spare set on hand.

Late to this thread, but will add:

I have a similar situation with my 2002 SR5 4wd. At 165k miles, I haven't been able to find out (via VIN search) if they LBJ's have been replaced when the recall was still active back then. They don't have much play. But yikes, those images of LBJ failures got me freaked out.

So I pulled the trigger and ordered all the parts to bring to my local shop. I went to Toyota Parts Factory - #1 Source for Genuine OEM Toyota Scion Parts & Accessories | Camelback Toyota Parts in Phoenix to get OEM parts.
Total for L and R ball joint which includes new nut and cotter pin, plus 8 new bolts came to: $295.85 which included state tax and shipping to Los Angeles.

Toyota PN Desc:
90119-10933 Bolt W Washer
43330-39585 Suspension Ball Joint (Right, Front, Lower)
43340-39465 Suspension Ball Joint (Left, Front, Lower)

These are for an '02 not sure if the part numbers are correct for similar years.

@mooremedia since shop doing the work, find a .2 fl oz tube of Loctite 271 or equivalent to go with the box of parts, mention it.
Been cases of bolts getting loose, some don't know some don't have it on hand some don't think of it.
Give em a hint.