10-16-2020, 12:26 AM
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#1
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Oct 2020
Posts: 18
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2020
Posts: 18
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Dimmer Switch Broke
So after successfully getting upgrading some bulbs to led's in the dash/instrument gauge
I've somehow ripped the green wire in half that was connecting the dimmer switch, and now all my newly placed LEDs don't work. Im now at a standstill on how I can get this fixed?
2002 4Runner *Badlands Edition
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10-16-2020, 12:43 AM
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#2
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Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 522
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: San Jose, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jones25261
So after successfully getting upgrading some bulbs to led's in the dash/instrument gauge
I've somehow ripped the green wire in half that was connecting the dimmer switch, and now all my newly placed LEDs don't work. Im now at a standstill on how I can get this fixed?
2002 4Runner *Badlands Edition
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The right way would be strip back both ends of the wire and solder it back together then put heat shrink around the exposed wire. Given the difficulty of getting a soldering iron in there, a butt connector would probably be the simplest solution.
Edit: Taking a closer look at that picture, it looks like there is a t-tap running off of the wire. That's not stock. Did you install the t-tap, or do you know what it is connected too? You're going to need to get that figured out and make sure you either remove it if it is unneeded, or include wiring that in if it is needed. It looks like the t-tap probably weakened the wire which is why it broke.
Last edited by Skulking; 10-16-2020 at 12:48 AM.
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10-16-2020, 12:58 AM
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#3
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Oct 2020
Posts: 18
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skulking
The right way would be strip back both ends of the wire and solder it back together then put heat shrink around the exposed wire. Given the difficulty of getting a soldering iron in there, a butt connector would probably be the simplest solution.
Edit: Taking a closer look at that picture, it looks like there is a t-tap running off of the wire. That's not stock. Did you install the t-tap, or do you know what it is connected too? You're going to need to get that figured out and make sure you either remove it if it is unneeded, or include wiring that in if it is needed. It looks like the t-tap probably weakened the wire which is why it broke.
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I know the truck had a previous owner before but from what I remember there wasn’t any modifications to the truck I have no clue what it would be hooked up to exactly?
The only thing I got installed was a 3rd party security system which I assume shouldn’t be connected to it?
I’m not too savvy when it comes to wiring but I have two questions
1. Is there any idea why a t tap would be placed on the dim switch
2. In order to figure out what it does is there a specific process I should follow
Last edited by Jones25261; 10-16-2020 at 01:01 AM.
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10-16-2020, 12:27 PM
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#4
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Elite Member
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Pocono Mountains
Posts: 7,494
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Elite Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Pocono Mountains
Posts: 7,494
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jones25261
I know the truck had a previous owner before but from what I remember there wasn’t any modifications to the truck I have no clue what it would be hooked up to exactly?
The only thing I got installed was a 3rd party security system which I assume shouldn’t be connected to it?
I’m not too savvy when it comes to wiring but I have two questions
1. Is there any idea why a t tap would be placed on the dim switch
2. In order to figure out what it does is there a specific process I should follow
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1. The green wire is a source wire for 12V+ from the TAIL fuse, that powers up when the stalk switch is set to TAIL or HEAD. Typically you would tap it to power low wattage interior lights or as a relay trigger for higher power exterior lights. It can also be a trigger for aftermarket displays, such as head units, to dim at night. I'm not knowledgeable on alarms, but I can't think why that would use such a tap.
2. There is no real procedure for tracing aftermarket butchery other than the obvious.
--see what it goes to. It won't disappear into a harness (usually) so this often can be done. It often will be taped or zip-tied to the outside of a factory harness.
--take an inventory of anything aftermarket that comes on with the lights.
--figure out what's not working at night with the headlights on.
What you can do is check the resistance to ground of the tap wire (when disconnected from the green wire) with everything powered on If it's infinite (open), whatever it was connected to was probably removed. Then just leave it disconnected.
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'99 4Runner SR5 5spd 3.4L V6 4WD(U.S), original '99 Talls in front, OME 906s in back, Hella fogs, Trekmaster shocks in front, Billy in back, no running boards, FIAMM horns, Alpine sound, Michelin LTX M/S2's, owned since new.
'97 HiLux SW4 5spd 4WD(Japan model bought in Brazil assembled in Argentina, very close to a 3.0 4Runner/Surf)
'71 FordWillys Jeep CJ5 (with straight six Ford Maverick 3.0 liter engine--lives in the mountains north of Sao Paulo Brazil)
My Backyard Frame Swap
Last edited by TheDurk; 10-16-2020 at 12:34 PM.
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10-16-2020, 12:42 PM
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#5
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That connection would be used to flash the parking lights when the alarm is activated/deactivated. (if that does go to an aftermarket alarm)
Fix the wire, move on...
-Charlie
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'99 4Runner SR5 Auto - 4WD swapped
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10-16-2020, 02:26 PM
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#6
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Join Date: May 2020
Location: Ontario
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Those "vampire taps" or t tap are the worst, to tight and they sever the wire as pictured, to lose and the don't work, cut and strip all three ends run 2 beside each other and twist them together so electricals flow straight, test operation, insure shrink tubing is in place, solder and heat shrink it.
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10-16-2020, 03:10 PM
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#7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phattyduck
That connection would be used to flash the parking lights when the alarm is activated/deactivated. (if that does go to an aftermarket alarm)
Fix the wire, move on...
-Charlie
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Yup, I didn't think about backfeeding to the parking lights. Like I said, I don't do alarms. That has to be it. Of all the 103 places to tap that circuit, that has to be one of the worst.
__________________
'99 4Runner SR5 5spd 3.4L V6 4WD(U.S), original '99 Talls in front, OME 906s in back, Hella fogs, Trekmaster shocks in front, Billy in back, no running boards, FIAMM horns, Alpine sound, Michelin LTX M/S2's, owned since new.
'97 HiLux SW4 5spd 4WD(Japan model bought in Brazil assembled in Argentina, very close to a 3.0 4Runner/Surf)
'71 FordWillys Jeep CJ5 (with straight six Ford Maverick 3.0 liter engine--lives in the mountains north of Sao Paulo Brazil)
My Backyard Frame Swap
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