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Old 10-25-2020, 01:49 AM #16
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Originally Posted by Niteghost View Post
Haha yeah I thought the same thing, I was like well damn thats shiny.
as far as rust goes it's extremely minimal, if you wanna nip it in the bud just hit it with a wire brush and throw a little rust converter on - shit is magical. It's impossible not to get an even coat and the shade of black is perfect.
The leak is most likely a valve cover leak (often neglected by many owner), but if not I wouldn't worry too much if your oil level isn't affected. I did my valve covers a while back and while that greatly stopped the leak I had, I still notice a constant shine on my steering rack with some drops hanging here and there. But it's so minimal it doesn't lower my oil level any, so I couldn't really care.
Another big area to leak with age is the oil pan gasket itself. Some hold up well, some don't
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Old 10-25-2020, 09:07 AM #17
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Originally Posted by mikeferg View Post
Seems in really good shape by the photos but I cant commit on the rest, is the interior grey? supercharged?
Interior is grey, sadly not SC. Prior owner added an odd JVC 6 disc changer I traced all the lines and it looks like it should come out pretty easily.
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Old 10-25-2020, 09:09 AM #18
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Originally Posted by Devbot View Post
as far as rust goes it's extremely minimal, if you wanna nip it in the bud just hit it with a wire brush and throw a little rust converter on - shit is magical. It's impossible not to get an even coat and the shade of black is perfect.
The leak is most likely a valve cover leak (often neglected by many owner), but if not I wouldn't worry too much if your oil level isn't affected. I did my valve covers a while back and while that greatly stopped the leak I had, I still notice a constant shine on my steering rack with some drops hanging here and there. But it's so minimal it doesn't lower my oil level any, so I couldn't really care.
Another big area to leak with age is the oil pan gasket itself. Some hold up well, some don't
Thanks Devbot, I agree I thought it was probably the valve cover since that is the typical leak. Im glad everyone here agrees on that so far.

The rust was my wifes biggest worry since in some of those areas it seemed bad but like I said the frame was pretty much spotless just those mounts and that bit on the driver side rear axle.
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Old 10-25-2020, 09:55 AM #19
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Here is another photo I found on my phone I was trying to located, ended up being on my wife's phone. This I believe is the gas tank cover, probably the worst of the rust other than that driver side mount. Could not get a screw driver through it but will definitely need to be replaced with probably an aftermarket gas skid.

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Old 10-25-2020, 12:20 PM #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Niteghost View Post
Here is another photo I found on my phone I was trying to located, ended up being on my wife's phone. This I believe is the gas tank cover, probably the worst of the rust other than that driver side mount. Could not get a screw driver through it but will definitely need to be replaced with probably an aftermarket gas skid.

You can see on the left of the tank skid that there is some flaking. My screwdriver did not poke through but some of the flakes fell off.
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Old 10-25-2020, 01:04 PM #21
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That skid could definitely use some work but it's certainly miles worse than any part of the frame we've seen. Could always snag a new one, but might be worth trying to sand it down and clean it up some. Rust can be deceiving in both directions; sometimes it looks way worse than it actually is once all the loose stuff is knocked off.
The only rust I had was on my rear axle and the weld seams at the rear half of the frame, which I spruced up a few weeks ago. Takes no time at all and looks miles better (exhaust to be done soon too). Didn't really care about overspray where it isn't visible, and didn't even have to prep the body since it's so far away with plenty of room.
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Old 10-25-2020, 04:02 PM #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Devbot View Post
That skid could definitely use some work but it's certainly miles worse than any part of the frame we've seen. Could always snag a new one, but might be worth trying to sand it down and clean it up some. Rust can be deceiving in both directions; sometimes it looks way worse than it actually is once all the loose stuff is knocked off.
The only rust I had was on my rear axle and the weld seams at the rear half of the frame, which I spruced up a few weeks ago. Takes no time at all and looks miles better (exhaust to be done soon too). Didn't really care about overspray where it isn't visible, and didn't even have to prep the body since it's so far away with plenty of room.
That cleaned up really nicely! What product and process did you use?
Typically I see people recommend the wire brush or something like a sanding attachment to a grinder and knock it all back then hit it with something like Eastwood's rust encapsulator or POR15.
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Old 10-25-2020, 06:12 PM #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Niteghost View Post
That cleaned up really nicely! What product and process did you use?

Typically I see people recommend the wire brush or something like a sanding attachment to a grinder and knock it all back then hit it with something like Eastwood's rust encapsulator or POR15.
They can clean up very well. I am experimenting with rust inhibitors. The rust belt is hard on the 3rd gens. I have more information next spring. The environment you in makes a huge difference.

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Old 10-25-2020, 09:34 PM #24
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Originally Posted by Niteghost View Post
That cleaned up really nicely! What product and process did you use?
Typically I see people recommend the wire brush or something like a sanding attachment to a grinder and knock it all back then hit it with something like Eastwood's rust encapsulator or POR15.
Just some wire brushes, rust converter and some farm paint. Used a twist knot cup on an angle grinder on my frame, but just used hand brushed on the diff (I wish I would've gone the extra step and used the grinder or some sandpaper to make it look a little smoother but oh well). Cleaned it all up on sunday then that mon-fri I just kept applying a new coat when I got back from work.
The rust I had along my welds was at a very similar level to what you pictured, not sure what the rear axle looks like though. Like others said, it's very minimal, I just personally advise taking the time to do something about it given you're in the salt belt. A little TLC goes a long, long way
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Old 10-25-2020, 11:16 PM #25
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Just some wire brushes, rust converter and some farm paint. Used a twist knot cup on an angle grinder on my frame, but just used hand brushed on the diff (I wish I would've gone the extra step and used the grinder or some sandpaper to make it look a little smoother but oh well). Cleaned it all up on sunday then that mon-fri I just kept applying a new coat when I got back from work.
The rust I had along my welds was at a very similar level to what you pictured, not sure what the rear axle looks like though. Like others said, it's very minimal, I just personally advise taking the time to do something about it given you're in the salt belt. A little TLC goes a long, long way
I appreciate that, I will definitely be doing some rust removal and preventative maintenance. I had a buddy that works in the oil industry recommend Ospho 605 after I remove what rust I can then he said to just paint it with some rattle can.
Thanks for adding to my confidence in moving forward with this.
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Old 10-25-2020, 11:31 PM #26
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I appreciate that, I will definitely be doing some rust removal and preventative maintenance. I had a buddy that works in the oil industry recommend Ospho 605 after I remove what rust I can then he said to just paint it with some rattle can.
Thanks for adding to my confidence in moving forward with this.
No problem. I actually just heard of Ospho the other day from a coworker restoring an FJ80. Sounds like great stuff, now that you mention it your gas tank skid might be a good test for it
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Old 10-26-2020, 12:08 AM #27
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No problem. I actually just heard of Ospho the other day from a coworker restoring an FJ80. Sounds like great stuff, now that you mention it your gas tank skid might be a good test for it
Great idea, Ill make a thread when I do it and hit you up with the results if you're interested.
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Old 10-28-2020, 09:58 AM #28
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Originally Posted by Niteghost View Post
That cleaned up really nicely! What product and process did you use?
Typically I see people recommend the wire brush or something like a sanding attachment to a grinder and knock it all back then hit it with something like Eastwood's rust encapsulator or POR15.
If you have flakes of rust, I highly recommend using an air scaler (like $30 at Harbor Freight)! Seems to do a good job of knocking off rust + identifying weak points in areas cause it will penetrate them. I decided to go with KBS 3-step over POR 15 and farm paint because of its rust neutralizing abilities and it wont disintegrate in UV light like POR 15. Just my 2 cents from a fellow rust belter.
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Old 10-29-2020, 06:38 PM #29
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If you have flakes of rust, I highly recommend using an air scaler (like $30 at Harbor Freight)! Seems to do a good job of knocking off rust + identifying weak points in areas cause it will penetrate them. I decided to go with KBS 3-step over POR 15 and farm paint because of its rust neutralizing abilities and it wont disintegrate in UV light like POR 15. Just my 2 cents from a fellow rust belter.
Just picked up the 4runner today so I will look into this! How do you like that system thus far? Looks like I have to keep spraying with step 2 for about an hour or so given the amount of rust on that cover.
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