It could be different since mine is a '99. If you look at the EWD for your year, under "starting and ignition" it should tell you everything you need to know.

You can also unbolt the switch from the transmission, plug it into the wiring harness, and turn it all the way to one side like it would be if it was in park, that should allow you to start and drive it to test. That’s what I did on my 97 so it may be different on yours but I’d give it a shot if possible

What I would suggest is finding the simplest point that requires the AT or ground signal to allow the start cycle to happen. For me this was incorporating the clutch switch and clutch start cancel into the harness at the kick panel on the drivers side. Your year will be different... I'll see if I posted the spreadsheet I created for my 97.

I used a manual ECU so, for me, that wasnt an issue. It was to allow the COR and starting to be incorporated into the clutch/cancel switches.

Appreciate everyone's input, however, I am going to say that making the jumper wire between terminals 9 and 6 on the main A/T plug is definitely the easiest option for my year/2002. Use 5/32" or 1/8" spade terminal connectors - not sure which, but definitely not 1/4".

I grabbed this photo from the FSM. At the bottom of each page it is noted "2002 4Runner (RM887U)"... not sure what that is noting exactly, but I felt confident using this FSM because 2001 and 2002 obviously share more similarities than earlier sub-gens.



Once I jumped the two terminals, she fired right up!!

My 4wd light was flashing and my VSC lights were on, in addition to the expected CEL. I'll have to identify why those lights were on, since I hooked all my VSC/ABS/TRAC computer stuff back up. I went to try and bleed the clutch system, but we couldn't build any pressure, so I'm going to buy a new Master cylinder.

Hey yall, it's been a while. I finished the swap over the winter in our garage with our wood burning stove to keep me warm, but let it sit until now. I gotta say... this thing is spiraling towards being an absolute beast - I'm so excited.

First things first, as far the transmission goes this unit drives PERFECT. The feeling when I first turned it over, it actually started, and then pushed it through all 5 gears down the road was euphoric. If you're looking for motivation, KEEP PUSHING. It's worth it.

Anyway, the suspension is getting the VIP treatment.

Front

• Camburg UCA
• King 2.5 Coilover
• OEM LBJ's
• Sanded, etched, and painted LCA's (will assess if replacement is needed)
• Whiteline LCA bushings
• Diff Drop Spacer

Rear

• Freel Good Performance Outboard Shock Relocation Mount ($340)
• 12" King 2.0 Smooth Body + Resi ($550-600)
• Eibach 1" Coil ($170), per Camburg recommendation
• Marlin Crawler Axle Rebuild Kit ($130)
• Driveshaft Universal Spider Kit ($60), hopefully this resolves the vibration and isn't the double cardan joint
• Rear Bumper ($550), haven't decided on a brand
• EimKeith Lower Link Reinforcement Skids ($140) + Custom reinforcements to cover the rest of the Lower Link mount past the frame welds
• Opt Off Road Lower & Upper Links ($750), there is a TON of play in the rear suspension
• Eimkeith PCK

Additional Misc. Tasks

• Air Needle, Wire Wheel, Degrease, Acid Etch, and KBS Paint entire frame
• Cut away and repair certain rust spots
• Sand and Repaint Gas Tank Skid Plate
• Tidy up Transmission Wiring
• Order, mount, balance, and align A/T Tires
• MAAAYBE LCE Engineering Short Throw Shifter ($100), only $100? seems like a crime not to lol

As you can see, tons of work to do to prepare for this summer. After repainting the frame, its the fun kind of work though... installing badass new parts!

Awesome man, just read the whole thread. Super cool to see an 01 with a manual. Keep us updated.

So glad to read you got it going! You wired yours the same way I did my 2002. Easiest to just jumped the AT plug. Mines been going strong for 5 years now. The only pitfall I encountered is I put the wrong clutch in. At the time I did my swap the Marlin HD clutch wasn’t available, out of stock. So I went with a recommended LCE dual comp clutch. Big mistake! It only lasted about 20k miles. Now I have to put a new clutch in. Other than that the 5 speed is great!
Hope you enjoy yours!

Upload some pics!

100% it was so easy... I'll just have to do a little extra work when I want Cruise Control.

Wow, I'm glad I didn't go with the LCE Clutch! I was actually eyeing it, but it sounded a little to aggressive for daily driving.

As you wish lol. I'll be taking plenty more this weekend/next week.

So... you know how I said it was "very clean", well as you can see it has its blemishes. Now, I can already hear you non-salt state people question why I would even invest time/money into this truck. Honestly, I've learned that waiting for years to finally find the "perfect build platform", is just a waste of time you could have been learning/enjoying/thrashing a less than perfect vehicle.

In this case, I'll just cut close to the upper body line and everything will be covered by an after market bumper. Our little secret. Kinda glad it has the flares now. I know the rockers are gunna be ugly. For now, who cares, I want to get to the dunes!





Anyone have recommendations for how to set this thing on jack stands? 3 Tons seem too short for the job, especially up front. Since I'm going to be working on all suspension stuff, I dont want to jack it up on the axle, but need more height to reach the frame with 3 tons... really dont feel like investing in 6 tons right now...

This is my only option for places to work on it from now on, so here it is with 3 ton jack stands maxed out up front. Gunna readjust with pops help tomorrow.



This is the Eimkeith Lower Control Arm Mount Reinforcement. The red is the outline of an additional piece I'm going to make to help reinforce the rest of the mount both inboard and outboard. That frame weld is always a weak point, especially inboard.

Random Pictures of underneath with the gas tank removed. So much more room to clean and repair rusted areas. I will be moving the jackstands in front of the link mounts after I repair them.

I will be using KBS 3-Step + top coated with Fluid Film to protect everything.












Ugly ole fat lip

Get some extra cribbing to go under the 3-tons. Be extra careful though, you want as much stability as possible. I keep some square cut 2x12's in the garage for this purpose. Often I just need 1 or two to get that slight extra bit of clearance for a project. Other times I use a stack, for putting a stand under a trans or engine...

-Charlie

While under here, I am tempted to delete the e-brake which doesn't work anyways, and the Charcoal Canister since there are no vehicle inspections in Michigan. Something about eliminating unnecessary clutter is very appealing. Would be interested to hear opinions on this.

While you are under there, you should fix the parking brake.

LOL. Thanks, I needed that. Adding fix parking break to my to-do list.