Would it be ok and skip out on changing the ATF filter? I heard its just a mesh filter. I plan to flush out the transmission fluid using Timmy the Toolman's method where I drain the fluid, and put the correct amount - then flush a quart, and add a quart back.
Now, thing is I don't want to change the ATF filter just because of the pain to scrape off the old gasket. My transmission shifts a bit hard in the morning, but i'm pretty sure its expected in a cold transmission (and engine). It shifts fine when warm. Should I drop the pan, and change the filter then perform the flush - or just go straight ahead and flush the tranny without touching the pan. Tranny has an unknown history of the last ATF change, but it's overdue since i've had the truck since 2012. Bought it with 150k, and now has 220k (its overdue by 2 drain and fill fluid services). The color of the fluid is still red (which is still fresh, so it's been changed before). Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.
It's a metal screen, unless there is debris clogging the screen you just leave it alone. I would suggest to get an oil sample and send it to Blackstone for analysis.
I replied in your other thread but basically, change the filter. It's not that much work and the filter can become plugged up over time and starve the pump which will ruin the tranny.
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1997 SR5 4x4 Auto, 99' tall coils up front, OME 906's, Truetrac LSD, Airaid MIT
1999 SR5 4x4 Auto for parts
2011 Camry SE V6
2011 Highlander Limited
Would it be ok and skip out on changing the ATF filter? I heard its just a mesh filter. I plan to flush out the transmission fluid using Timmy the Toolman's method where I drain the fluid, and put the correct amount - then flush a quart, and add a quart back.
Now, thing is I don't want to change the ATF filter just because of the pain to scrape off the old gasket. My transmission shifts a bit hard in the morning, but i'm pretty sure its expected in a cold transmission (and engine). It shifts fine when warm. Should I drop the pan, and change the filter then perform the flush - or just go straight ahead and flush the tranny without touching the pan. Tranny has an unknown history of the last ATF change, but it's overdue since i've had the truck since 2012. Bought it with 150k, and now has 220k (its overdue by 2 drain and fill fluid services). The color of the fluid is still red (which is still fresh, so it's been changed before). Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.
This was a dumb question I'll definitely change the filter as well. As said, do it once - do it right. On the 4x4, does the pan drop straight down, or do i have to remove the subframe?
This was a dumb question I'll definitely change the filter as well. As said, do it once - do it right. On the 4x4, does the pan drop straight down, or do i have to remove the subframe?
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2000 Toyota 4Runner 4x4 Limited Sport Package V6
The pan drops straight down, but the transmission dip stick must be removed and the transmission dipstick tube must be separated
The pan drops straight down, but the transmission dip stick must be removed and the transmission dipstick tube must be separated
Well, sort of. I highly recommend getting the sway bar out of the way and THEN it can drop straight down.
Because of the unknown service history, I'd go ahead and drop the pan and replace the filter. Make sure to get the right filter for your year and trim model. There are some differences with the filters.
__________________ "My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools. I can fix it!"
It should be noted that you can simply undue the anti-sway bar links at either end and pivot the anti-sway bar out of the way. Also I just did this job on my truck and bought a new Filter as per Tims (mtbtim) suggestion, my tube halves where seized together so vice grips twisted them loose and they got a new o-ring. You don't need a pan gasket, I just used permatex ULTRA grey, used it on many Mitsubishi turbocharged cars many times, 4R 3rd members, oil pans, trans pans, manual transmission halves, transfer case haves, snowmobile 2 stroke case halves, oil filter housings, never a leak 5-10 years later, the stuff works well, not sure why some suggested permatex "right stuff" it's to runny, and don't use the aviation stuff as that is meant to come apart often for servicing/inspection. Pull the pan Tims video is excellent for a walk through of the process.