I'm having an issue with my rear driveline rubbing up against my gas tank skid plate. There is a little plate on driveline (I assume for balancing?) that will catch on edge of the skid plate. Had the problem again yesterday when I had left rear tire stuffed and right rear drooped out. Its happened before, even removed skid before and bent back.

I'm thinking something is out of adjustment to let my axle move that much? I have lifted coils (don't remember what ones) with CaliFab upper/lower links and pan hard bar with a PCK installed. Any suggestions on what I need to check or maybe adjust?

Ryan

I wish someone made a thinner (but still strong) driveshaft

My gas tank skid has removed several grease zerks.


I guess it'll self clearance eventually...

Happens to me as well, Sonoran Steel lift. I've adjusted the Panhard rod some to scoot the axle over to the passenger side, but I don'
t want to get too uncentered. But it still can touch if I get into a full flex. And once it catches a little - the driveshaft weight bends the skid outward so it touches easier next time.

I was out wheeling this weekend and had it happening. Makes a HORRIBLE noise, but I'm sort of used to it now, not terrified like the first time I ever heard it. WTF!!?!?!?!

I bent it back *again*. Pried it back enough to dent the side of the tank in a tiny bit as well. And folded the little sideways lip that had developed on the top edge. Fingers crossed for next time...

??? The hell is wrong with your guys' cars? Had to go outside and take a look cause of this thread, and I have at least 2-2.5" between the prop rod and gas skid. Though mine is aftermarket, I definitely don't remember the OEM being tight for space or THAT much bigger. New one is definitely skinnier, but not 2in skinnier.
Or are we talking Limiteds here? I know they have a different driveshaft than SR5s
They do... contact any local driveshaft shop, or someone like Tom Woods. Mine is slimmer, extended for my lift, made of hardened steel, with flat cardan yokes (as it should be) AND cost me $350 which is about what you find OEM shafts for at their cheapest
The OEM shaft is ass. Get something you can actually service the u-joints on

Mine has a similar amount of room at rest. It's only at *full* flex that it reaches over and snags it. Never did it while on stock suspension.

Mine's a manual trans. The driveshaft length (manual/auto trans, 4WD/AWD xfer case) probably makes a difference, as well as how far your rear axle can flex.

Oh shoot, that sounds sexy. Did you call Tom or pick one from the site?

I got one from a local shop. A few members here have gone with Tom Woods and have nothing but great things to say about him. If I wasn't in dire need at the time I probably would've gone with him

Happened to me too. I'm running a Sonoran Steel 1.2 (I think) lift. Happened while flexing over rocks doing a run with a Jeep group. It was too intermittent to track down while on the trail, but when I got home, so the "damage."

I "hammered" the balance plate back over the driveshaft and pushed the gas skid plate backwards toward the gas tank, but haven't been out to try it since.

Reminds me that I have aftermarket skidplates to install, I'd better take some measurements, etc and wonder if those would be affected too.

Maybe the panhard adjustment might do the trick, I just don't want to crabwalk down the freeway.

Ok so it's not just me, sounds like a common problem. I guess there isn't much to do but bend the skid plate back again.

Thanks for the replies guys.

same issue here, I used one of those stubby sledge hammers bend the skid plate a bit then replaced the zerk with a plug. Whenever I need to re-grease I take out the plug and put the zerk back.