Like everyone else, I’m very grateful for all your efforts. I hopefully won’t need this video for a while, but I’m glad it’s here when I need it. You guys are the real MVPs.
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2001 Black SR5 Sport Ed. 4wd, 160xxx, Tundra TRD coils/906s, 265/75/16 Falken Wildpeak AT3s, Trail Edition wheels, never ending maintenance
I’ll be interested to see how you handled the torque converter bolts. To me that was one of the most pain in the arses.
Getting the top inspection cover bolt out with anything bigger than child’s hands......
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Seriously. That one bolt is a nightmare. A long ratcheting flex head wrench helped though.
Also getting the motor mount bolts/nut back on was a PITA. Why couldn't they use studs instead of a bolt and nut??
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1997 SR5 4x4 Auto, 99' tall coils up front, OME 906's, Truetrac LSD, Airaid MIT
1999 SR5 4x4 Auto for parts
2011 Camry SE V6
2011 Highlander Limited
Where does one buy a new replacement engine and what is the approx. cost?
Watch the video, Tim recommends Yota1 and gives a bunch of very good reasons why. Not sure how much they charge, and it's highly dependent on the importer/seller, but If I recall when I checked ages ago the average was in the $1500-2000 ballpark.
Having done this job before (twice), I can appreciate the fact that you guys are making a video for it as more and more of these trucks will need heart transplants in the near future.
What was wrong with Ray's engine that he needed to replace it?
Well done guys!
Rey's engine spit out a spark plug out of one of the heads a while back. He repaired it with a helicoil insert but lost faith in the engine's dependability. He likes to go hunting and wanted confidence in his rigs ability to get him in and out of the backwoods he hunts in. So, he decided to buy the rebuilt engine from Yota1 Performance.
__________________ "My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools. I can fix it!"
I’ll be interested to see how you handled the torque converter bolts. To me that was one of the most pain in the arses.
Getting the top inspection cover bolt out with anything bigger than child’s hands......
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We show how to separate the auto trans from the engine in our Auto Trans Replacement series. Start watching at 17:03 in the video below. I found a flex head ratcheting box end wrench works well to get the inspection plates bolts off. The one furthest on the driver side I attack by facing my body towards the front of the vehicle and getting the ratcheting box end wrench on the bolt. If you try to go from underneath, there's no where for you get get your hands or wrench in there.
The flex plate bolts are easy. You have someone work a ratchet and 19mm socket on the crank bolt turning the engine clockwise while you're watching the flex plate rotate around. You get a bolt at around the 7 o'clock position and then you can get a socket or wrench on it. The person helping you holds the crankshaft firm every time you're breaking free and removing one of the 6 bolts. Then you tell your buddy to start turning it again until you get the next bolt in position to break free and remove. If you watch the video, you'll see first hand how nicely this system works provided you have a friend to help you.
__________________ "My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools. I can fix it!"
Watched it last night. Very thorough as we have come to expect. I really appreciate the 360o view of the new engine, especially the rear.
Useful as another reference for when I get around to doing the fiddly valve cover gaskets.
I'm starting my engine swap today. I was thinking about removing the front end of the truck to pull the engine and transmission as one unit, but after watching your video, I'm going to remove the transmission from the engine instead. I replaced the clutch myself about 20 years ago and I remember a couple bolts being a pain in the ass, but it's still less work than removing my ARB bumper, radiator, grill, and all the other components up there. I'm just crossing my fingers that the JDM engine I bought isn't a piece of shit.