Ok, I secured the door light switch and latched the door so i could lock and arm the alarm with the door open (to gain access to the fuses). I connected the DMV leads (had to clamp them) and placed them as you have with the white wire to the fuse box disconnected. and got .035-.037 reading. I then measured (with another meter) the Voltage drop across all fuses. I got Zero. hmm.
Now what made me think I had an issue on the DOME fuse was when i remove the negative cable and jump a test light between the batt. neg. post and the neg. cable = the test light lights up. if I remove the DOME fuse, it goes out.
Ok, I am measuring the battery (12.54) and see if it slowly drains, which I know it will. Any more trouble shooting ideas to proceed with? Thanks!
Fuses should not have a voltage drop. If you’re trying to see how much voltage that circuit is using you will need to be part of the circuit to measure that. Remove the suspect fuse for the circuit and put a test lead at each fuse terminal.
My battery is around 12.43 - I originally wrote 12.54, but I looked at what I wrote down and just measured it. My issue was a slow drain over a couple weeks and unable to start the car at all. I did have faulty wires at the hatch (3 exposed from the covering and 1 completely broke) I repaired those but still had a battery drain. But I'll see if it drops day by day like it used to.
One thing to note, I did disconnect the 4wd electrical connector from the switch to gain access to some relays behind the center console (in case I wanted to test them) otherwise everything is hooked up as normal.
Still not sure why my DOME fuse would cause a test light to light up (when I place in series with post and disconnected cable.) that tells me something is wrong. right? Meaning: if I remove the DOME fuse, the test light goes out. Maybe that is an incorrect method to test?
Ok, I am beginning to wonder if between when I had the battery go dead and now...if something got 'fixed'. I did not measure the mA in the method you sent me; so I don't have a good record of what was happening.
Over Christmas, sitting a couple weeks it went REALLY dead. I forgot to disconnect the battery. And it dropped down to 7 volts give/take. Something seriously drained it.
When I measured the volts daily (before Christmas) it would drop a little each day. So I will continue to monitor it now.
And at this point, with all the frustrations... if the battery keeps dropping like it did last fall when I noticed the problem - I am going to throw up my hands in defeat and take it to a shop.
Well, it drops in the Tenths of a volt over day or so - and keeps dropping - is more accurate to what was happening. Not full volts. I am monitoring now to see if it is still happening. I didn't have an accurate read on the mA pull when I was experiencing major drain, so now that I do have mA, I'll see if I still have a major drain.
What troubles me (as I mentioned) is that I don't think I am supposed to be getting any test light illumination when removing the negative battery cable and placing a test light (in series) between the post and the cable. And if I remove the DOME fuse, the test light goes out. Tells me there is some sort of wiring issue. right?
I’d have to look at your 2002 circuitry. Sometimes the dome circuit also powers aux stuff.
Is anything plugged permanently into your OBD connector?
I leave my scangauge plugged in all the time plus I have a desulfation module plugged into the battery.
I drove a little over 25 miles and parked it around 2pm and it’s already at 12.5. My dome light is LED. I don’t know if the pcm wakes up with the keyless entry or if it wakes up at key on.
Was it a bright test light or a dim test light illumination?
I have nothing in the OBD computer.
I did have LEDs bulbs all the way around. Nothing is lighting up (unless turned on of course).
And everything works like it is supposed to.
this is what is on the circuit:
Auto Antenna
Cigarette Lighter and Clock
Combination Meter
Garage Door Opener
Headlight (w/ Daytime Running Light)
Interior Light
Radio and Player
No idea what the combo meter is and i do not have a garage opener. (maybe those are for limited versions, i have a Sport SR5)
The test light lit pretty bright. slight less bright than compared to when i hold across the (12volt) battery posts. Can't be a horrible grounding out, otherwise the fuse would blow. I was wondering if a relay was stuck, but then logic tells me something would always operate or at least when i turn the key on.
I thought your battery sounded way too low.
I wonder if someone with a 3rd gen 4runner could do me a favor...
disconnect the neg cable from the battery and connect a 12v test light between the negative post of the battery and the other end to the negative cable just removed. And see if the test light lights up. and if you pull the DOME fuse - if the light goes out.
Maybe the DOME fuse is intended to work that way as opposed to telling me I have a short?
If this helps: I have a 2002 4runner Sport with a factory alarm.
It would save me from chasing something that may be as designed. If anyone sees this request....I may need to make a new posting directly related to this request. Thanks!
I thought your battery sounded way too low.
I wonder if someone with a 3rd gen 4runner could do me a favor...
disconnect the neg cable from the battery and connect a 12v test light between the negative post of the battery and the other end to the negative cable just removed. And see if the test light lights up. and if you pull the DOME fuse - if the light goes out.
Maybe the DOME fuse is intended to work that way as opposed to telling me I have a short?
If this helps: I have a 2002 4runner Sport with a factory alarm.
It would save me from chasing something that may be as designed. If anyone sees this request....I may need to make a new posting directly related to this request. Thanks!
I would do it if I wasn’t so close to vehicle inspection. I don’t want to have all my readiness monitors unset. Someone with a 01 or 02 should do the test to have similar control systems.