Quote:
Originally Posted by brillo_76
Search your always on circuits. Stop circuit is one. Courtesy lights are another.
The rear hatch wiring boot look for shorting wires cracked insulation.
You can also keep the amp meter on and check each fuse till the amp load drops
To find it as well.
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When you say 'search the circuits' - meaning a visual search at areas where a cracked wire could be? A quick look seems like everything is fine. But I'll have to figure out how to remove the rear hatch boot.
Not sure if this is something or not... when i was using the multimeter, touching the prongs to the NEG batt. post and disconnected NEG clamp; the reading starts off at around .32; then after 5 seconds or so drops to around .12 or such and then zero. what is going on?
So i unplugged the cig litghter, but that didn't change anything. still not sure when that can work without the Key on. I've owned the vehicle since 26K miles, I doubt it was altered. maybe my model (2002 Sport) is designed to always be operating?
This is frustrating me without a clear answer or even direction to focus on. And I am not an electrical expert. But I'd hate to spend $$$ for someone to figure out...but starting to feel that way. URGH.
Just to confirm one of my testing procedures...
I disconnected the POS cable. then used my test light to jump between the POS cable and the post. it lights up. but if i remove the DOME fuse, the test light does not light up. so something is grounding, but not enough to blow the fuse. must be the rear hatch.