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Old 11-16-2020, 11:24 PM #1
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How to remove skid plate?

Hey guys, over the weekend I tried to remove the stock skid plate, my understanding is that there's 5 bolts and I removed them, only to find that it didn't even try to fall on my face. How do you remove it? I tried banging it, pulling it down, rocking it back and forth but nothing. I need to get at the AC belt to tighten it.
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Old 11-16-2020, 11:30 PM #2
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It has a 'hook' of sorts connecting the 2nd one to the first one, might have to remove the 2nd one or at least the 2nd one's front bolts to let it drop just enough to let the hook go. Pain putting it back too....
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Old 11-16-2020, 11:36 PM #3
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I had to remove the skid plate in order to do an oil change a few weeks ago. Removal was easy for me. It was 4 bolts - one of them was a different size, must be something the previous owner did. The skid plate has hook like things toward the front of the car so you have to wiggle it a little bit. I definitely saw it sagging as I kept unbolting one by one. Putting it back was a pain since you have to use one hand to hold it up and line it up and another hand to tighten the bolts. I ended up using the stock jack that comes with the vehicle to prop it up to where I needed it while I bolted it back on.
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Old 11-16-2020, 11:37 PM #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jgue467 View Post
Pain putting it back too....
Aww man don't tell me that
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Old 11-17-2020, 04:33 AM #5
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The undercover has 2 parts, front and rear. There are nine bolts involved, but only 7 attaching the undercover to the car, and the other 2 holding the two pieces of the undercover to each other. You only have to remove 7 if you are cool with removing the entire undercover assembly instead of just the front part. That's what I do. There are 3 up front, two in the rear, and two "hidden' in the middle. If you can get underneath and position yourself to actually see all the bolt holes, it'll all come clear. It's worth jacking up the front of the vehicle or putting the car on a lift or ramps once, in order to grok where all the fasteners are. On mine they're all 12mm hex bolts.
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Old 11-17-2020, 06:15 AM #6
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They all should be 12 mm bolts. If not, someone in the past changed a bolt or 2.

To change the oil on v6 3rd gen. You can reach through the driver side wheel well under the front flap to get to the filter. That's how I do it. I only pull my front engine skid when needed and its very easy to do.

Pulling up on ramps gives you more room to work if you wish.

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Old 11-17-2020, 11:35 AM #7
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Mine only came with the 4 rear bolts. Maybe someone got tired of doing up the front three at some point.
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Old 11-17-2020, 12:43 PM #8
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Unless you are the original owner, many skid plate sets have a couple missing or different length bolts from 20 years of removals (draining the radiator, diff oil, etc). I would really like to get a full set of Savage skids and am hoping for a Black Friday deal of some kind. I could pick them up in SoCal to save shipping, too. I am a little concerned that they could be easily stolen overnight unless I get some fancy fasteners to slow them down until I can get a bead on them (City life).
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Old 11-17-2020, 01:37 PM #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by artcell1620 View Post
Putting it back was a pain
Don't get aftermarket skids, then!

The front end should have hooks that clip on to the mini crossmember in front of the radiator. Hang the front end, then lift the rear and attach one bolt loosely. From there, get the other 6/8 started and then snug 'em all down. I also would take down both the skids together when I had the stock ones.

-Charlie
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Old 11-17-2020, 02:27 PM #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phattyduck View Post
Don't get aftermarket skids, then!

The front end should have hooks that clip on to the mini crossmember in front of the radiator. Hang the front end, then lift the rear and attach one bolt loosely. From there, get the other 6/8 started and then snug 'em all down. I also would take down both the skids together when I had the stock ones.

-Charlie
Impact wrench optional but very nice for this.
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Old 11-17-2020, 03:15 PM #11
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Originally Posted by phattyduck View Post
The front end should have hooks that clip on to the mini crossmember in front of the radiator. Hang the front end, then lift the rear and attach one bolt loosely. From there, get the other 6/8 started and then snug 'em all down. I also would take down both the skids together when I had the stock ones.

-Charlie
Exactly this. I drop my skid plate intact for each oil change as I am OCD about slop on the skid plate. Comes off as fast as undoing 6 bolts and goes on just as fast. This is really not a hard task once you get the technique.
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Old 11-17-2020, 05:43 PM #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kanoe View Post
Exactly this. I drop my skid plate intact for each oil change as I am OCD about slop on the skid plate. Comes off as fast as undoing 6 bolts and goes on just as fast. This is really not a hard task once you get the technique.
I use the slop as rust inhibiting solutions...
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Old 11-17-2020, 06:14 PM #13
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Quote:
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Exactly this. I drop my skid plate intact for each oil change as I am OCD about slop on the skid plate. Comes off as fast as undoing 6 bolts and goes on just as fast. This is really not a hard task once you get the technique.
Fumoto drain valve with a hose down just below the skid plate and a form-a-funnel under the filter when removing it = no mess, even with skid plates in place.

-Charlie
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Old 11-17-2020, 07:53 PM #14
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Fumoto drain valve with a hose down just below the skid plate and a form-a-funnel under the filter when removing it = no mess, even with skid plates in place.

-Charlie
Yes, these look interesting, I had looked into one. But I like my magnetic drain plug, and it gives me a chance to have a look around under there and check for any leaks or problems.
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Old 11-17-2020, 10:57 PM #15
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Originally Posted by phattyduck View Post
Fumoto drain valve with a hose down just below the skid plate and a form-a-funnel under the filter when removing it = no mess, even with skid plates in place.

-Charlie
Nice idea.. I too have been thinking easier ways to do Oil change... fumoto drain valve sounds like top option...

so that leaves the OIL FILTER???...
how do you get it out with the skid plates in there...

right now... I usually take skid plate off before going to quick oil change place...they only charge me $35 out the door and there are pretty good. But I can't risk them jacking up the skid plates.

Anybody ever take a Holesaw to the skid plate for easy access direct???
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