11-26-2020, 12:21 AM
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#91
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Join Date: Sep 2020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pluton
If they're NOS and faded, yellowed, corroded, filled with dust...refund time.
If they're OE approved new/aftermarket, then fine...I'll get better lights than I had. If they're TYC with a different badge on them, then, yes...I will have overpaid, and proven the 'stupid' part of my 'rich and stupid' formulation from the earlier post.
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Mine don't look like old stock. Definitely a step up in quality from the TYCs. I don't think the TYCs had the rubber vent hose on the back and the rubber bulb housing on the back was kind of chintzy.
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11-26-2020, 04:07 AM
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#92
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Join Date: Sep 2020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96RedRunner
Since harness on the way been scoping the job I lied saying 3' wire would do it, ha.
Print shows body ground at R/S bucket, goes to Batt plus L/S bucket.
Plan is to run a 10ga wire from R/S bucket to L/S bucket to Batt, isolated ground clean power.
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My plan was to remove the terminals on the ground wires and splice those to one long 14 gauge wire running back to the negative battery terminal. Nothing in that harness is bigger than 14 gauge so I figured that would be sufficient.
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1997 SR5, 3.4L, Manual
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11-26-2020, 10:40 AM
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#93
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Odessa/Midland TX
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I bought a TYC to the passenger side (after reading your thread and other's views). I am already running 100/80W bulbs with stock wiring. I am very happy to report the passenger side light throws a LOT of light on the road now, a massive improvement!
The TYC light has 2 rubber vents in the back, those are not as long as OEM toyota but those are there. I saw it.
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11-26-2020, 01:20 PM
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#94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nissanh
The TYC light has 2 rubber vents in the back, those are not as long as OEM toyota but those are there. I saw it.
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Cool. I didn't specifically look. I just didn't remember seeing them. Glad it worked out for you!
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11-27-2020, 12:07 AM
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#95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by texadelphia
My plan was to remove the terminals on the ground wires and splice those to one long 14 gauge wire running back to the negative battery terminal. Nothing in that harness is bigger than 14 gauge so I figured that would be sufficient....
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Think about what your doing by doing this, your doubling the load on the single 14 ga wire. Ground sized for both loads in this case, you benefit by running this to R/S, circuit efficency Ohms Law what we after.
With your soldering iron and solder. Pic is blurry what size solder did you choose ? .035"-.045" dia. works best with that tip, chisel tip better for larger solder. Was tip tight in heat element where it screws in. New out of box could be a dud, check temp, who doesn't have an I/R thermometer now days with the WOO Flu, lol.
Last edited by 96RedRunner; 11-27-2020 at 12:10 AM.
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11-27-2020, 12:35 AM
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#96
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Quote:
Originally Posted by texadelphia
Mine don't look like old stock. Definitely a step up in quality from the TYCs. I don't think the TYCs had the rubber vent hose on the back and the rubber bulb housing on the back was kind of chintzy.
Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk
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I purchased a set of used lights from a member here. He shipped them to me in one of the OEM boxes he got. Order date was last year, so definitely not NOS. When I called my wholesale buddy @ Toyota of Richardson a year or 2 ago, he said they were still being produced and stocked regularly at the warehouse.
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11-27-2020, 12:47 AM
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#97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96RedRunner
Think about what your doing by doing this, your doubling the load on the single 14 ga wire. Ground sized for both loads in this case, you benefit by running this to R/S, circuit efficency Ohms Law what we after.
With your soldering iron and solder. Pic is blurry what size solder did you choose ? .035"-.045" dia. works best with that tip, chisel tip better for larger solder. Was tip tight in heat element where it screws in. New out of box could be a dud, check temp, who doesn't have an I/R thermometer now days with the WOO Flu, lol.
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Yeah, I was wondering about that. Guess I'll run each ground back to the battery individually.
Solder is 0.062 diameter. Tip is screwdriver tip. I think it's a dud with a loose connection. Iron went completely cold a few time despite being turned on. Ordered a nicer Weller model as a replacement.
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11-27-2020, 01:59 AM
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#98
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Quote:
Originally Posted by texadelphia
Yeah, I was wondering about that. Guess I'll run each ground back to the battery individually...
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Your choice I'd still go bigger 12-10 ga still a benefit.
This like wiring a Amp best power I can get, think it'll payoff powering the bulbs.
Going OCD or close on this Mod, No winter time blues.
Ground side all I can layout at the moment. A $25.00 plug n play harness could be coming, $25.00 of parts snip here snip there we'll see.
$25.00 down the drain.
Last edited by 96RedRunner; 11-27-2020 at 02:05 AM.
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11-27-2020, 11:33 AM
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#99
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I got my Amazon harness and the only thing I’m going to do to it is extend the grounds back to the battery. I’m going to mount the relays where the fog relay it mounted at the battery tray.
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11-27-2020, 01:06 PM
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#100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96RedRunner
Your choice I'd still go bigger 12-10 ga still a benefit.
This like wiring a Amp best power I can get, think it'll payoff powering the bulbs.
Going OCD or close on this Mod, No winter time blues.
Ground side all I can layout at the moment. A $25.00 plug n play harness could be coming, $25.00 of parts snip here snip there we'll see.
$25.00 down the drain.
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I guess I figured the power going to ground was essentially limited by the power going in through the single 14 gauge wire going to the positive terminal. Can't get out more than goes in right?
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11-27-2020, 01:16 PM
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#101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nissanh
I bought a TYC to the passenger side (after reading your thread and other's views). I am already running 100/80W bulbs with stock wiring. I am very happy to report the passenger side light throws a LOT of light on the road now, a massive improvement!
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My passenger side TYC headlight's beam pattern is fine too, it's the driver side ones that have beam pattern issues.
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11-27-2020, 03:54 PM
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#102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by texadelphia
I guess I figured the power going to ground was essentially limited by the power going in through the single 14 gauge wire going to the positive terminal. Can't get out more than goes in right?..
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A given voltge over a given distance with a given wire size has a percent of voltage drop which effects amp draw.
There is a varible percentage range of acceptable voltage drop for a given load type and voltage DC AC
I'm aiming for .5%+- voltage drop since it is the headlights, ground is half the circuit harness is other.
Any electrical advantage is a good thing, https://cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-hw84...208230.jpg?c=2 Comes in handy
Will harness achieve that out of box we'll see.
Last edited by 96RedRunner; 11-27-2020 at 04:04 PM.
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11-27-2020, 04:55 PM
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#103
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Ahh, all these 4Runners with brighter headlights make me happy. Drive safely and confidently!
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11-27-2020, 05:11 PM
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#104
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Aim these brighter lights correctly in there somewhere.
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11-27-2020, 05:47 PM
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#105
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Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Connecticut
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Anybody have or planning to use this harness upgrade with factory fog lights? Will that matter or impact anything? I noticed one of the harnesses mention that it is not for DRL or factory fog equipped 3rd gens.
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