11-27-2020, 09:23 PM
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#16
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Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Seattle, WA
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Got it done today. What a royal PITA!! This is when I wish I had a vehicle lift. Constantly getting on the ground to shimmy underneath to reach things was irritating. Took me 5 hours to do what should have been a 1 hour job.
This was on a 02. The Great Him's writeup is on a 97, it's slightly different, outlined below:
01-02 only have two lines going to the front of the tank, the third is actually on the top of the tank and hard to get to.
I had to lower it on my jack little by little to get my hand up along the driveshaft to loosen the 3 hose clamps for the evap line, vent line, and something else (return?)
There was no feasible way to get to the clamps on the tank side of the hose so I did it that way. The vent clamp is annoying and it took me a while to figure out how to remove it. the plastic flange simply slides over the plastic nipple on the evap canister, but it needs to be flared out a bit. I kept trying to pry on something else on the plug that was pointless, again you're on your back doing this craning your neck up at an angle trying to see things since it's on the top of the tank.
I honestly thought about just taking my jigsaw and making a big hole under the passenger seat haha. It would be so much easier to access all this, making it a 30 minute job.
I took pictures of the Denso (950-0001)pump I got. I found photos online on how they were similar...these are the EXACT same. See the side by side sizing, and the part numbers on the black plastic part.
In fact they're so similar, I reassembled the pump with the old one by accident. Fortunately I noticed the bright silver one sitting on my bench and the goldish one and recognized my error. Those metal clips that come with it for the filter are super fragile. I crushed mine on accident holding it with pliers so I had to reuse the old one.
Looking at the tank you see there are three small lines. One thing I learned the hard way...laying on the ground here you'd think that's the order they go back once you have the tank up, not so. I struggled to get the "middle" line back on the "top" hard line. When I say top, middle, bottom I'm laying on my back from the passenger side with my chest just below the muffler and driveshaft looking up at the bottom of the truck. The hard lines are in this order. "top" is closest to the passenger side, and so on. This was the only way to get my right hand up to the lines for reassembly. The "middle" one although it's bent that way, slides too easily onto that hard line, then the "top" hose struggled to get onto the middle hard line. That's when I noticed the diameter of the hard lines, it's subtle but they're different. I swapped them and voila. the "bottom" one which is closest to the driver side is unmistakable due to hose length and such.
if you ever have to do this job, go to a self service garage and lift the vehicle so you can stand under there, because it sucked. Thankfully I have quick reflexes or I would have taken a lot of gasoline directly to my face (wasn't wearing glasses, shame shame) When disconnecting the front hard lines by the fuel filter one is a hose clamp while one has a plastic red adapter. You pry that and rotate it out of the inset holes then pull the plastic connector back...then MOVE! Thank goodness I am quick or I might be in the ER right now taking care of my eyes. For the record I DO have glasses for all the safety people out there (and ended putting them on later once enough rusty particles fell into my eyes, but I can't see well out of them).
I did this repair with the gas light on for about 20 miles. Still had a it left in the tank too.
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11-28-2020, 02:23 PM
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#17
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: NC
Posts: 13
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Kudos for tackling the job in a driveway! So did it solve the starting issues you've been having?
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11-28-2020, 04:49 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Ohio
Posts: 1,596
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Location: Ohio
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This has been an interesting read, and hats off to you to for doing it on the ground! I've done plenty of crap jobs due to limitations such as this. So a question: would you have done this yourself if you knew it would be such a PITA, or would you have taken it to a dealership?
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11-30-2020, 03:38 AM
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#20
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Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Seattle, WA
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So I gave it a couple days to work itself out and it does not seem like the warm starts have changed really at all. So now I'm out of ideas since everything else along the fuel path is new or new ish within the last year or two
The reason I did on the ground was I could have pulled into the garage but it would have been very tight to slide under the car and back out again so I decided to pull alongside the garage door that way I had more working room on the side of the car. And no I would not have taken it to the dealership I would have taken it to a mechanic that I know who has a lift.
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12-06-2020, 11:52 PM
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#21
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Location: Seattle, WA
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It's been getting worse consistently. The last few days it's been taking four to five cranks to start. I smelled fuel I'm the parking lot today too after I parked somewhere near the passenger rear door. Could the fuel pressure regulator be bad? I can't think of any other part in line of fuel delivery. I briefly thought about whether I crossed up the three hoses at the top of the tank, but I would have noticed a big change I'd imagine for the worse. The vent and the other one.
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12-07-2020, 01:04 AM
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#22
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Trying to figure this out
Posts: 1,462
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Any CEL's throughout all of this? Try pulling the vacuum hose going to the fp regulator, see if raw fuel is being sucked up through it?
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12-07-2020, 01:12 AM
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#23
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Nope no codes.
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12-07-2020, 02:35 AM
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#24
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Mar 2014
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Do you have an 01-02? With the carbon canister in the back? You said you smelled fuel near the rear passenger door? If it was cracked you could smell fuel, it would also throw a code.
When you say sputtering, you mean engine is started and running extremely rough. And runs smooth out after about 5-10 seconds?
When you fill up with gas, do you stop at the first click of the pump? If not, you could be pushing raw fuel into the carbon canister.
I was thinking your IAC could be sticking when it's in a heat soak, like when you stop at a store for some time. You say it doent do this when it's cold, only when you shut it off and restart?
I would try swapping the IAC with a wrecking yard one. And check the canister for cracks/leaks.
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12-07-2020, 12:07 PM
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#26
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By sputtering I meant it struggles to turn fully over into ignition. And no there's no hissing from anywhere
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12-07-2020, 12:08 PM
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#27
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Right now I stopped to get gas and when I restarted it was perfectly fine So I have to stop somewhere for a while before it gets stuck starting again. Somebody told me something about the IAC before but what is that exactly?
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12-07-2020, 07:17 PM
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#28
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It's this valve that meters air going into the engine when idling. Ecu opens the IAC valve, idles goes up. Ecu closes the IAC valve idles goes down.
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12-07-2020, 10:15 PM
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#29
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01-02 have a built in air bypass, same as 1st gen tacomas apparently. I'm looking at tutorials for this IAC cleaning and came across that in Timmy's video
so there is no IAC. and I can verify the TBI looks different, nothing's underneath like the IAC in the video
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12-07-2020, 10:35 PM
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#30
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Elite Member
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Join Date: May 2017
Location: Western PA
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Real Name: Jon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mendozer
01-02 have a built in air bypass, same as 1st gen tacomas apparently. I'm looking at tutorials for this IAC cleaning and came across that in Timmy's video
so there is no IAC. and I can verify the TBI looks different, nothing's underneath like the IAC in the video
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Yes the throttle body majorly different in 01 and 02. Then in the 96 thru 2000.
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