[mendozer]

Doing the head gaskets and I'm now held up by the bottom driver nut of the crossover exhaust pipe flange. I reached through the bottom with extensions and a U joint but that just rounded off the nut. So I torched it, nothing. So I've been trying to cut the damned thing off with my dremel but the space is so small I'm not having luck with angles. Is there ANY other way?

[mendozer]

several hours of cursing and tool tryouts later, I finally was able to saw the bolt off. I plan on buying new ones anyways, they're cheap enough.

[19963.4lsr5]

One head gasket job I did I removed the exhaust manifold studs from the heads and left the exhaust intact.


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[mendozer]

I thought about that but upon removal, the passenger side had one stud remaining underneath and the driver side had 3, 2 down and 1 up. It would have been tight to get tools in there to remove. My buddy said to just release the block and lift away from the headers, but can't do that with 2 inches of studs sticking out!

[19963.4lsr5]

Originally Posted by mendozer

I thought about that but upon removal, the passenger side had one stud remaining underneath and the driver side had 3, 2 down and 1 up. It would have been tight to get tools in there to remove. My buddy said to just release the block and lift away from the headers, but can't do that with 2 inches of studs sticking out!

Factory studs have a torques tip on them. Put a torques socket on them and remove them.


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[mendozer]

Yes I saw those. they were gnarled and very well worn. Plus I didn't have those sockets. It's just simpler to put new ones in. They're fairly cheap for all 18 (12 for headers and 6 for crossover). The old ones lasted 18 years, not too shabby. I'm hoping to not have to take this apart again, but if I do, I'll have another 18 years of corrosion to work with

[6uam671_T4R]

Were you able to get the stud out? When I worked on my motor, 2 or the 3 studs were pretty much fused to the exhaust. Getting it out ruined the threads. Luckily I had a spare header but I’m almost positive I’d be able to tap and die it if needed. Just a real PIA . Make sure to out anti-seize on them when you go to reinstall.

[mendozer]

I was able cut it off finally after 8 dremel discs, one carbide oscillating saw blade, and many chisel whacks. I haven't tried getting the rest out of the header yet but yes I'm doing all new bolts and antiseize. Would you recommend the copper one for spark plugs or something else?

[6uam671_T4R]

Originally Posted by mendozer

I was able cut it off finally after 8 dremel discs, one carbide oscillating saw blade, and many chisel whacks. I haven't tried getting the rest out of the header yet but yes I'm doing all new bolts and antiseize. Would you recommend the copper one for spark plugs or something else?

I use the one from Autozone and it’s silver. Not sure if the copper one is much different.

[mendozer]

I still can't get the stud out of the flange. I torches it and used pipe wrenches to turn it and while it worked for a bit the rest snapped off. So now I've got 1/4" of stuff in the flange that I can't remove

[19963.4lsr5]

Originally Posted by mendozer

I still can't get the stud out of the flange. I torches it and used pipe wrenches to turn it and while it worked for a bit the rest snapped off. So now I've got 1/4" of stuff in the flange that I can't remove

I broke a bunch of studs on the 96. Drilling them out and re-taping them was the only option.

All though I’ll admit one didn’t work and I ended up drllling it out to use a bolt and nut in the end. The heat and rust put on them studs, good luck. I still regret not spending the money on the Doug Thorney headers when I put the rebuilt engine in my 97 SR5!!!!!!!!!!


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[mendozer]

Update on this: I never could get the last stud out. I even used a reverse bit and that broke off. So I ended up buying a tacoma header on ebay (I posted pics in another thread here). Same surfaces and stuff, but it's wider from the block. Reassembling the head was a PITA due to this. But then....it gets better. The same crossover pipe flange....I have NO IDEA how humans can get these studs back in. There's a tiny bit of space to work on one, the bottom is accessible, and the other just cant be done. I have tried for 3 hours and there is no way to get these studs in there properly at the torque needed. What I thought of after the fact was threading it into the header first and jiggling it in that way as you put the header on the block...but that wasn't in the FSM. And the header was such a PITA I really don't want to do it. You can ratchet like 2 teeth in what little room you have, while you're kneeling on the bumper one arm outstretched as the other holds you up on the body.

there's gotta be a secret. someone HELP!

And these are all brand new studs btw.

[mendozer]

I would love the anti-maintenance of an electric SUV. It seems the makers are going for cheap commuters (think Leaf style) or fancy car or truck (tesla, Rivian, etc).

Can't anyone just make an electric 4x4 SUV, like a 4runner? haha

There are a few australian companies outfitting Landcruiser 70s to electric for rural mining and farming operations. but they're like 200k

I see these ads for start ups claiming "0-60 in 4 seconds, this truck can tow 30000 lbs and charge in 15 minutes starting at $60k".

I'll pay you $20k if you make it 0-60 in 8 seconds, tow 8000 lbs and charge in 4 hours, with 4x4 capabilities

[19963.4lsr5]

Originally Posted by mendozer

I would love the anti-maintenance of an electric SUV. It seems the makers are going for cheap commuters (think Leaf style) or fancy car or truck (tesla, Rivian, etc).

Can't anyone just make an electric 4x4 SUV, like a 4runner? haha

There are a few australian companies outfitting Landcruiser 70s to electric for rural mining and farming operations. but they're like 200k

I see these ads for start ups claiming "0-60 in 4 seconds, this truck can tow 30000 lbs and charge in 15 minutes starting at $60k".

I'll pay you $20k if you make it 0-60 in 8 seconds, tow 8000 lbs and charge in 4 hours, with 4x4 capabilities

My brother just bought a 2017 Bolt. Loves it.

Goes 115 miles on half a charge and cost him around 40 dollars a month extra on his electric bill for his driving conditions.


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