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Old 11-18-2020, 06:04 PM #1
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ADD Defeated...No more failures!

ADD System Defeat + Manual Hubs

Reference articles:
Have you "Defeated the ADD System"? - YotaTech Forums
Toyota Tech: Defeating the ADD System

After having my ADD system fail on me twice I am done with it. I probably should have defeated the system when I added my manual hubs but I liked the idea of the ADD system keeping my front diffs from constantly spinning. The first time it failed the vacuum lines melted as they were too the headers. This second time I am not entirely sure what happened but the actuator collar got stuck, preventing the fork from moving and the 4WD indicator light sensor wire harness got ripped in half. I am not sure how this happened but I was wheeling in some rocky terrain at Uwharrie, NC on Daniel and I distinctly remember taking a hard hit that knocked my alignment/toe off a bit (steering wheel turned slightly to left) and am wondering if the harness got loose and subsequently wrapped up in the axle or something else. Because I have front ARB air locker I was able to engage it and have 3-wheel drive (w/front driver axle) which did get me unstuck but I didn't want to ride like this all day for fear of breaking something. When I got everything torn apart the collar was easy to unstick by rotating the passenger axle back and forth a couple times while gently prying on the collar with my finger and it popped back into position. Maybe the vacuum lines were acting up again but I said screw it and followed the directions in the articles above to keep the diff actuator engaged at all times.

I drained the diff, and then it was easy enough to remove the actuator (4 bolts for actuator and 1 bolt for vacuum line harness, all 12mm). Only a little bit more fluid drained out. I had a hose clamp on hand and clamped it down to keep the fork in the locked position. Cleaned up the mating surfaces, reapplied some FIPG and put it back together, filled up new fluid and done. Drive shafts are constantly moving now but the system is more reliable now. Just have to keep up with manual hub maintenance.

For now I am planning to keep all of the stock vacuum lines/etc in place until I am sure things are good to go might remove them later but it seems like unnecessary work right now. The last piece of the puzzle is fixing the wiring (optional if I want to have the 4WD light work on the dash). Rather than fully repairing the plugs (not a lot of space to work on wiring and reconnecting, I am wondering if I can simply remove the upstream connector and twist the two wires together then snip the wires on the actuator plug to keep them from flopping around. Or do I need to repair the harness and reconnect?

Diff actuator sensor plug/wire

Upstream wire harness connector
The attached articles hint at wiring the upstream two wires together but these write-ups are for a year/different model I think and I am not familiar with how this is wired. Mine is a 99 with a J-shifter TCase (now triple sticks J)

Any ideas? @TheDurk , @infamousRNR , @mtbtim , @eimkeith , @JZiggy
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Old 11-18-2020, 06:50 PM #2
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Originally Posted by papabeach View Post
Drive shafts are constantly moving now but the system is more reliable now. Just have to keep up with manual hub maintenance.
I'm a little confused why your driveshafts would be constantly moving if you have manual hubs that you can disengage
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Old 11-18-2020, 06:58 PM #3
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I'm a little confused why your driveshafts would be constantly moving if you have manual hubs that you can disengage
Good point...that makes no sense...that’s what I get for trying to post when my kids are trying to get my attention. Doh... 😂
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Old 11-18-2020, 08:02 PM #4
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There exists a shorting plug for the ADD indicator switch that would be an OEM part for the Tacomas with manual hubs... But otherwise, you can just connect those two wires. I would suggest a crimp or solder connection.

-Charlie
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Old 11-18-2020, 10:11 PM #5
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ADD Defeated...No more failures!

I could’ve told ya this man; I did this YEARS ago when I did my manual hub swap.


What are you trying to accomplish with the ‘upstream’ connector?

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Old 11-18-2020, 10:50 PM #6
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Quote:
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I could’ve told ya this man; I did this YEARS ago when I did my manual hub swap.


What are you trying to accomplish with the ‘upstream’ connector?

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Pretty sure I saw your write-up at one point (well done btw). Goal is to have the 4wd dash light still come on when I shift the tcase in 4wd. Sounds like I can just short the circuit by connecting the two upstream wires and it should work fine...haven't tried yet.
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Old 11-19-2020, 10:45 AM #7
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Is there a benefit to go with the non-ADD diff tube? I think I have one of these in my parts stash...
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Old 11-22-2020, 08:09 AM #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JZiggy View Post
Is there a benefit to go with the non-ADD diff tube? I think I have one of these in my parts stash...
Hmm, at this point I’m not sure...think that would be easier to do with the diff out of the truck. Also, not sure if it takes the same CV. Things I probably should have considered when I regeared Ans added the front locker. 🤦🏻*♂️
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Old 11-22-2020, 05:24 PM #9
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Originally Posted by papabeach View Post
Hmm, at this point I’m not sure...think that would be easier to do with the diff out of the truck. Also, not sure if it takes the same CV. Things I probably should have considered when I regeared Ans added the front locker. 🤦🏻*♂️
It does take the same CV, the outer hubs however require a different type depending on if you are using locking hubs or non locking, the differential side of the cv is the same
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Old 11-23-2020, 02:52 PM #10
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It does take the same CV, the outer hubs however require a different type depending on if you are using locking hubs or non locking, the differential side of the cv is the same
The inner is very slightly different between manual hub and ADD axles.

-Charlie
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Old 11-23-2020, 05:00 PM #11
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The inner is very slightly different between manual hub and ADD axles.

-Charlie
Yes, and the difference is meaningful. Here's my writeup on it

Front TrueTrac Install - CV Axle Fitment Tech
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Old 11-26-2020, 03:26 AM #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phattyduck View Post
There exists a shorting plug for the ADD indicator switch that would be an OEM part for the Tacomas with manual hubs... But otherwise, you can just connect those two wires. I would suggest a crimp or solder connection.

-Charlie
Wires clipped and soldered, works perfect. Thank you!
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Old 11-26-2020, 10:17 AM #13
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Yes, and the difference is meaningful. Here's my writeup on it

Front TrueTrac Install - CV Axle Fitment Tech
I’m glad you posted that, I’d like to put a truetrac in my front diff and probably never would have realized that slight difference between the inner axles until I couldn’t get the snap ring to lock in place
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Old 11-26-2020, 11:15 AM #14
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I’m glad you posted that, I’d like to put a truetrac in my front diff and probably never would have realized that slight difference between the inner axles until I couldn’t get the snap ring to lock in place
Yeah that’s what happened to me and I didn’t realize what was up until I’d pulled the diff back out to inspect. God bless @mtbtim for helping me R&R the front diff more than once!!
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