#1 and #2 would be your best options. #3 is rusted way beyond repair and would be a money pit.

Personally, if the rust is about the same (and you seem competent with repairs) take #2 the 2001 if you really can talk them down to $2500. That's $1000 cheaper than the other one and that goes a very long way into making it what you want it to be with all sorts of goodies. The only real downside on the #2 2001 is that it has the bench-style front seats. The sport-style SR5 and Leather Limited seats are much more comfortable, as I've owned both.

Stay away from the 3rd one. It's clapped with rust and interior needs work. 1st seller painted the frame so he's probably hiding rust which is a red flag.

The 2nd one isn't too bad although we didn't see the frame.

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2000 Toyota 4Runner 4x4 Limited Sport Edition V6

I deal with the rust and rot. Unless you want to spend alot of cutting welding and fabricating. Stay away from the rotted ones.

I saved 5 from the junk yards. But I am DIY and repair the rot myself. However, its my hobby and is not cost effective unless you do it yourself.

My builds thread is full of those adventures.

Now with that said, those who dont live in the rust belt most of the time see surface as extreme rot as they just do have alot of experience with it.

How I assess the rusty steel:

If the scaling got above 50% of the original Thinkness is starting to get questionable. the is going 75% gone its loosing structural integrity. It's going to rot through quickly and probably already is in places.

Being your a Jeep guy you understand what rotted steel looks like then surface scaling.

One thing to mention. The 3rd gen boxed frame is a thicker c channel with a thinner inside to make the box. Mostly these rot from the inside out and the inside frame rail goes first. Arch areas and the LCA are hot spots especially behind the tank.

Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk

This is the most informative post I've read on 4 runners. Thanks man...very very good. I know that not living in arizona I'm gonna have to deal with rust....that's why i have a lift, sandblasting setup, and a 220 mig...I would just prefer to use them as little as possible. the only Toyotas I've worked on aremy old 80 and a friends 80...I'm guessing its the same steel

I agree...I can blast and measure and whatnot, but I'd prefer not to for another 1000 bucks. It's just not realistic for me to travel to the south right now to hunt for cars, so this what I've got. Thank you again

Where in Indiana are you?

(And that there ladies and gentlemen was post 50 lol)

Thanks everyone. I ended up making the plunge and bought the first one.

After I showed up he was more willing to deal, and I ended up with it for $3000

It ran great, and everything worked - Took it home (73 miles) and it was smoooth sailing.

The drivers seat is a little more beat up than I thought, but the frame was completely solid when I went at it with my screwdrivers and a ball peen

Sounds good. Congratulations!