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Old 12-26-2020, 08:20 PM #16
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Following along as it looks like you're doing just about everything I either need or want to do as well! Just on the other side of the river to ya in east Vancouver/Camas area, picked up my 2000 a bit over a year ago with 127k on it but haven't had any extra time/money to tackle things and still trying to research what's what as I come from the land of lowered cars!

The new battery/fuse box setup looks good! I was just looking under my hood trying to see what's possible, I bought the same fuse box years ago for my Subaru I need to dig out and make a bracket for, didn't know if there was enough clearance on top of the factory fuse box but looks like you had no issues there!
Thanks, neighbor! I grew up in the classic car scene with my dad and brother, switched to imports like all teenagers, but never had the cash to do much until the last decade. Instead of sticking with cars the whole time, I fell in love with the Honda Ruckus and decided to dump all of my available cash into squeezing every bit of performance out of its 49cc motor. I was keeping up with 150cc GY6 swaps (60+ mph on flats), so I accomplished everything I needed to there, which leads us to today, lol.

The fuse box fits perfect in that space with plenty of clearance up top! I wish I went for 1/4" ABS instead of 1/8" because it's already drooping a bit. I'm thinking that I'll just do some thicker acrylic in the near future for style points. My biggest issue so far with this thing is not having a garage at my place! I have to go to my work to do almost anything, especially this time of year. I'm hoping to remedy that problem by the summer, so we may end up being even closer neighbors soon! Gotta get rid of the income tax bullshit to help fund the last remaining items that are almost all big ticket items (bumpers, SC/V8 swap, etc.).
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Old 12-29-2020, 10:24 PM #17
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The actual part number you want to look for is "C59-210v". They slip right into the perches and as my dumbass found out only after the fact, release your e-brake when installing in conjunction with removing the bottom shock mount and you should be able to slip these in without compressors. I'll be taking them (and the 5160's, which are a match made in heaven so far!) out to the trails for some mild abuse this weekend, so I'll report back on here with my final thoughts.[/QUOTE]

Hi @Fiffa nice build, I just got myself a 2000 limited T4R and are thinking of doing similar suspension upgrade to yours, so was wondering what are your thoughts on the 6112/5160 combo suspensions?

I'm dedicating my truck to be overlanding/camping trips rig, so looking for comfort for both on and off roads.
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Old 12-29-2020, 10:53 PM #18
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Beautiful rig!
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Old 12-30-2020, 05:36 PM #19
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Originally Posted by LS-4Runner View Post
The actual part number you want to look for is "C59-210v". They slip right into the perches and as my dumbass found out only after the fact, release your e-brake when installing in conjunction with removing the bottom shock mount and you should be able to slip these in without compressors. I'll be taking them (and the 5160's, which are a match made in heaven so far!) out to the trails for some mild abuse this weekend, so I'll report back on here with my final thoughts.

Hi @Fiffa nice build, I just got myself a 2000 limited T4R and are thinking of doing similar suspension upgrade to yours, so was wondering what are your thoughts on the 6112/5160 combo suspensions?

I'm dedicating my truck to be overlanding/camping trips rig, so looking for comfort for both on and off roads.
So far, this setup has been awesome! The 5160's and 210v's are just starting to fully set in and the ride has gotten even more smooth in conjunction with the 6112's. I will, however, be adding a 1/4" (I keep hearing they give a nearly 1/2" lift - not sure how that works, lol) strut spacer up front to help level things off in hopes that it'll get rid of the last little bits of tire rub with the new 33's. I also need to replace the LCA bushings, so fingers crossed that it'll give a more stout alignment that will help keep the tires away from the frame!

Do keep in mind that the 210v's need some extra full-time weight to get them in the "comfort" sweet spot - at least in my experience. With just the stock weight you'll have a gigantic lift and a stiffer ride despite the progressive design. Even with ~350 lbs. of extra weight in back and up top, I still could add a bumper w/ swingout and armor before I expect to notice any real change in ride height/comfort. I was going to go with the OME 861's, but the static rate would've left things super stiff no matter what.

Enjoy your new obsession! ;)
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Old 12-30-2020, 05:42 PM #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fiffa View Post
I will, however, be adding a 1/4" (I keep hearing they give a nearly 1/2" lift - not sure how that works, lol) strut spacer up front to help level things off in hopes that it'll get rid of the last little bits of tire rub with the new 33's.
Because the front strut attaches roughly halfway between the lower control arm bushings and the lower ball joint it acts as distance multiplier of X2. 1/4" increase at the strut will equal 1/2" increase at the lower ball joint.
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Old 12-30-2020, 09:11 PM #21
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Because the front strut attaches roughly halfway between the lower control arm bushings and the lower ball joint it acts as distance multiplier of X2. 1/4" increase at the strut will equal 1/2" increase at the lower ball joint.
Makes sense! This should be perfect then. Thanks for the insight!
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Old 12-30-2020, 10:30 PM #22
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Nice build camping rig. Looks like your having fun and that's what it is all about. I enjoy the build threads myself. It's great to see how folks make the rigs their own in their own way.

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Old 12-31-2020, 03:38 AM #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fiffa View Post
Do keep in mind that the 210v's need some extra full-time weight to get them in the "comfort" sweet spot - at least in my experience. With just the stock weight you'll have a gigantic lift and a stiffer ride despite the progressive design. Even with ~350 lbs. of extra weight in back and up top, I still could add a bumper w/ swingout and armor before I expect to notice any real change in ride height/comfort. I was going to go with the OME 861's, but the static rate would've left things super stiff no matter what.

Enjoy your new obsession! ;)
I will probably at some point would like to put a rear bumper with swingout but not right away, so perhaps the 210v's will not work at first, can always change to them later as neede.

Thank you.
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Old 12-31-2020, 01:14 PM #24
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Nice build camping rig. Looks like your having fun and that's what it is all about. I enjoy the build threads myself. It's great to see how folks make the rigs their own in their own way.

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Danke!

I've always been a tinkerer and this 4Runner is ticking all of the boxes for me. I've never truly been smitten for a vehicle until this one.
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Old 12-31-2020, 01:15 PM #25
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I will probably at some point would like to put a rear bumper with swingout but not right away, so perhaps the 210v's will not work at first, can always change to them later as neede.

Thank you.
... I've got a set of mildly used OME 890's that could be for sale...
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Old 12-31-2020, 01:39 PM #26
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External trans cooler done!



I opted for the Hayden 678 cooler and it has worked great on the 30-minute drive I've taken so far! Hills that use to put the temps into the low 200's are now barely getting to 165F. I'm going to test it on the trails this weekend, but if the first drive was any indication I think the O/D button will be going back to obscurity. The nominal temp for the test trip was around 140F.

Amazon.com: Hayden Automotive 678 Rapid-Cool Plate and Fin Transmission Cooler: Automotive

I also wanted to have some abrasion resistance built-in to the hoses, so I opted for nylon sleeved hose.

Amazon.com: theBlueStone -4AN -6AN -8AN -10AN Braided Fuel Line Hose 20FT -6AN Nylon Braided for 3/8" Tube Size: Automotive

Lastly, I was worried about heat soak (most likely for no reason) between the lines and because I'm apparently a stickler for cleanliness, I saw these hose separators that ended up helping with routing more than I thought they would.

Amazon.com: -6AN Hose Separator Clamp - Fuel line Mounting Clamps,Aluminum Hose Fitting Adapter, Great for 3/8 Fuel Hose, Oil Line, Brake Line, Water Pipe and Gas Line,4Pcs/Pack,Black: Automotive

As I was researching on here, I noticed that most everyone was going through the passenger side of the "bulkhead", but my test fits made the lines way too cramped with all of the A/C stuff around, so I figured I'd just go through the drivers side.



The cool thing was that the Magnefine filter that was added had plenty of space to be mounted up front, too. There was a connection tab with two holes for something on the drivers side and I opted to zip-tie it there and added a hefty guy around the tab for security.



Naturally, I had to do some finagling to the radiator connection to keep the hose from kinking with the 90 barb, but I think it turned out nice and the separators allowed me to run the send and return around the lower radiator hose without much fuss.



I've got to hand it to the previous owner. By him changing the radiator already it made removing lines a breeze. The fluid that I drained (did the ~30k drain and fill at the same time) looked almost new despite the 240F+ temps that it had been subjected to numerous times through the hills this summer. This was also the first time that I removed the factory skid plates even though I've done a few oil changes and I'm hoping that the oil wetness that I saw around the pan was from my sloppy filter removals and not something else. The engine hasn't really lost anything on the dipstick, so I have faith that it's most likely just residual mess.

All in all, this was an easier install than I thought it'd be and definitely something everyone should do!
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Old 01-01-2021, 03:10 AM #27
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Quick cooler update: did an official "hill test" today and it was crazy to see the trans temp stay below 171! The SR26 West highway from downtown Portland would consistently keep the temp over 210 within a half mile of the climb, and this is at least a mile and a half incline, so it has been an improvement to say the least. Looking forward to the trail runs this weekend!
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Old 01-01-2021, 10:36 PM #28
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Where about are you taking your rig over the weekend around Portland? Are you doing trails in Brown's camp area?
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Old 01-03-2021, 01:49 PM #29
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Where about are you taking your rig over the weekend around Portland? Are you doing trails in Brown's camp area?
I have been going to Larch Mountain across the river in Camas/Washougal. I want to check out Browns camp once I get the LCA bushings installed (last piece of the suspension puzzle) because I hear the trails there are a little more technical. Larch is primarily hilly logging roads that have stayed relatively groomed. I like it as a "test track" because of that and the fact that there isn't a ton of traffic on the main parts.
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Old 01-03-2021, 05:10 PM #30
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I have been going to Larch Mountain across the river in Camas/Washougal. I want to check out Browns camp once I get the LCA bushings installed (last piece of the suspension puzzle) because I hear the trails there are a little more technical. Larch is primarily hilly logging roads that have stayed relatively groomed. I like it as a "test track" because of that and the fact that there isn't a ton of traffic on the main parts.
That's coo, I haven't been there much as I come from dirt bikes world, but most trails around Brown's camp are rated easy to moderate so don't think you're going to have any problem there.
Maybe we can get together to wheel there once I'll get my truck ready.
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