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Old 01-25-2021, 09:36 PM #46
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This is why I'm not allowed to have nice things...



One trip out to the trails and these aging axles took a shit... BOTH of them, lol. I think with having a ~3" lift up front it's time I get some of those sweet CVJ axles I keep hearing so much about. Gave the tires a jiggle and the bearings both seem good. The drivers side inner CV though... well, that rumbling I was hearing the other day is oddly similar to what I could hear when spinning the tire today. Fingers crossed new axles do the trick!
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Old 01-25-2021, 10:36 PM #47
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How do you like the rokmens links ?
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Old 01-25-2021, 11:15 PM #48
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How do you like the rokmens links ?
They feel pretty good! I was getting plenty of articulation and they never gave me any problems on the trail.
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Old 01-26-2021, 01:52 AM #49
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sick I have rokmans pro links there killer .
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Old 01-26-2021, 11:39 AM #50
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sick I have rokmans pro links there killer .
I thought about doing the pro series for both sets of trailing arms, but decided not to have the added annoyance of getting the lengths dialed in. I'm already creating enough work for myself with this build.
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Old 01-26-2021, 02:07 PM #51
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Curious as to what clip you have the 6112s on. Also any chance youíve got the part number for those? Been seeing some people running the first gen tundra 6112s also.

Cheers
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Old 01-26-2021, 04:57 PM #52
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Curious as to what clip you have the 6112s on. Also any chance youíve got the part number for those? Been seeing some people running the first gen tundra 6112s also.

Cheers
I have the 3rd gen specific C/O's: 47-258624

The previous owner maxed them out at 9D/8P and I added a 1/4" SSW spacer onto them to get to ~38" floor-to-fender. This is also with Dobinsons C59-210v springs in the rear, so your results may vary depending on extra weight and rear suspension choice. From what I've read, the Tundra 6112's give you more lift out of the box, but the valving with the stock spring may give you a harsher ride if you don't have a bumper w/ winch.
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Old 01-26-2021, 05:43 PM #53
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Curious as to what clip you have the 6112s on. Also any chance youíve got the part number for those? Been seeing some people running the first gen tundra 6112s also.

Cheers
FYI 4Runner 6112's have a 600 lb/in spring and 1st Gen Tundra 6112's have a 650 lb/in spring. 1st Gen Tundra 6112's have a shorter collapsed and longer extended length as well.
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Old 01-26-2021, 06:15 PM #54
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FYI 4Runner 6112's have a 600 lb/in spring and 1st Gen Tundra 6112's have a 650 lb/in spring. 1st Gen Tundra 6112's have a shorter collapsed and longer extended length as well.
Would you happen to have the collapsed and extended lengths for the two handy? For some reason I am having trouble finding them on google right now, but swear I saw them earlier...

I am aware of the different valving and spring rates, but how would the shorter and longer compressed/extended lengths negatively impact the set up on the 3rd gen?

Sorry for derailing the thread for a sec!
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Old 01-26-2021, 06:15 PM #55
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Quote:
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I have the 3rd gen specific C/O's: 47-258624

The previous owner maxed them out at 9D/8P and I added a 1/4" SSW spacer onto them to get to ~38" floor-to-fender. This is also with Dobinsons C59-210v springs in the rear, so your results may vary depending on extra weight and rear suspension choice. From what I've read, the Tundra 6112's give you more lift out of the box, but the valving with the stock spring may give you a harsher ride if you don't have a bumper w/ winch.
Thank you for the info!
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Old 01-26-2021, 06:25 PM #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rooselan View Post
Would you happen to have the collapsed and extended lengths for the two handy? For some reason I am having trouble finding them on google right now, but swear I saw them earlier...

I am aware of the different valving and spring rates, but how would the shorter and longer compressed/extended lengths negatively impact the set up on the 3rd gen?

Sorry for derailing the thread for a sec!
Jross's Shock List post #1 has an excel spreadsheet with different lengths for different front and rear shocks. Collapsed/extended lengths mean more or less suspension travel. Most extended travel front shocks will require aftermarket upper control arms that articulate more than stock upper control arms so you can use the increased suspension travel.
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Old 01-26-2021, 06:30 PM #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bad Luck View Post
Jross's Shock List post #1 has an excel spreadsheet with different lengths for different front and rear shocks. Collapsed/extended lengths mean more or less suspension travel. Most extended travel front shocks will require aftermarket upper control arms that articulate more than stock upper control arms so you can use the increased suspension travel.
Thanks for linking that thread! Very helpful. I am looking to get as much travel as possible, and was going to purchase aftermarket UCAs. Sounds like it should work out!

Thanks again
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Old 02-01-2021, 02:50 PM #58
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I'm beginning to think that I have an addiction...



I ended up going with reman OEM axles from Toyota because they were about $180, which would be cheaper than CVJ if I were to eventually put their extended inner boots on... which is what I plan to do with the one OEM axle that came off; the other is a NAPA brand and will serve me better in a dumpster.

Since I had to disconnect the LBJ to get the axles out, I figured that I may as well give myself peace of mind by replacing those, too. From all of the reading I've done, the worn out bushings that these last ones were working with around the front end most likely affected their lifespan, so 35k is long enough for them. They had more play than I felt comfortable with when I had the LCA's off a few weeks back and from all of the horror stories on here I didn't want to chance anything. I'll keep them because after handling the new ones they apparently aren't as tight as tie rods brand new, so the old joints are good enough to serve as trail spares.

The diff drop that came with this truck had to go. The plastic spacers were giving out, so I went with the Sonoran Steel tapered options and they seem pretty nice already! I still couldn't get the torque (101 ft. lb.) dialed in mainly because of the nut moving the counter-hold wrench to a position that was crushing my hand, but I cranked the shit out of it enough to where I feel comfortable with where it's at. That is a weird angle to be at to get that kind of leverage anyway.

The only thing I'm a little concerned with is the gaps that the new axles have going into the differential. As it is with everything on the internet, I was finding mixed responses. They don't appear to be leaking and I was beating on them considerably with a 4 lb. mallet and stout chisel, so is that good enough? The ones I took out were in further and the dust seal even popped off of one while I was removing them because of how tight it was against the diff. Not sure if that comes with usage or if I need to try to re-seat these new ones to match. What do you guys think?

Passenger side


Drivers side


I'm really looking forward to doing all of the interior projects now because my aging body is not responding well to crawling around the shop floor these days, lol.
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Old 02-01-2021, 04:26 PM #59
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... still getting a weird low rumble/vibration while accelerating starting at about 40 mph. I just read through the following thread and despite having a lot of good info about the rear driveline, the OP never actually fixed his similar issue:

1999 SR5 Driveline Vibrations

Since I'm still new to the 4x4 world and the fact that I had some pretty decent drops and hits the last trail day, I'm wondering if the tires may be unbalanced? I do have a spare driveshaft, so I may just try that guy out for shits'n'giggles this weekend. There's still a pretty decent angle to the front axles even with the new diff drop, so I'm also thinking that I may need to remove the strut spacers and deal with the wheel well mod for the 33's. The front axle angles are looking pretty dang good now that the suspension has settled after coming off of the stands last night, so I'm wondering if it may be something else around the front diff that I should be looking at? We shall see...
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Old 02-02-2021, 01:57 PM #60
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I thought the spacers that came with the old diff drop gave enough clearance for the stock skid, but I guess I was wrong! Checked the spacers after bolting the front cover down and both freely spun around the bolts; the skid was pressed against the bottom of the diff mounts! Barely had enough of a cutting wheel left on my grinder, but we got it figured out...



The passengers side axle going into the diff looks like it has a minor leak and, like nearly everything I do in life, I found out after the fact that I should've replaced the seals with the axles! Back to Toyota I go!
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