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Old 11-21-2020, 11:35 PM #1
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Fiffa's "Get Lost" Build

Yo!

I've been lurking on here for the past year since getting my '00 Limited after moving to the PNW. I've been slacking pretty bad with getting this thread going and I suck at remembering to take pics of what I've been doing, but my documentation more than makes up for it, lol.

I got her a little built already, but it was primarily high mileage maintenance, which ended up costing around what I paid for it: $7,200. The goal is to make it into an overland, go-most-anywhere vehicle when all is said and done. There's not a ton left to do, but my mind is always wandering.

The day I brought her home:


How she's sitting as of 01/23/21:


The guy before me babied this rig and really didn't want to give it up, but his wife gave him an ultimatum of either continuing to wrench on this or sell it and wrench on their GX470; with three kids in tow, he chose the latter for it's 3rd row seating.

I haven't really met any people around here yet that are into wheeling/camping. Also haven't gone out much in lieu of work and all of the weekend projects so far. HMU and we can make some plans to get lost!

Engine & Drivetrain:
- 3.4 5VZ-FE all stock
- 4.30 gears (soon to be 4.88)
- Factory e-locker rear
- Airbox deckplate mod and ISR Mod with K&N filter
- 4 hole Denso fuel injectors (OEM upgrade)
- Odyssey Batteries 34R-PC1500T
- All else was OEM maintenance items done by the previous owner within the last 30k... like, almost the entire engine bay and drivetrain was serviced/replaced outside of a motor rebuild. It's at 262k right now, so I plan on rebuilding at 300k regardless
- Hayden 678 trans cooler w/ Magnefine magnetic filter

Suspension & Brakes:
- Bilstein 6112 3rd Gen 4Runner specific
- Sonoran Steel Works 1/4" strut spacers (gives ~1/2" lift - perfect for 33's without trimming... so far)
- Bilstein 5100 rears
- Bilstein 5160 4th Gen 4Runner
- OME 2890 rear springs
- Dobinsons C59-210v springs (LC front coils that work on the rear)
- Durobumps 2.5"+ option, F/R
- Eimkeith PCK
- Mstudt end links, F/R
- Sway bar delete, F/R
- Front diff drop kit
- JBA UCA's
- 13WL TBU with Powerstop drilled/slotted rotors & HD braided brake lines
- E-brake bracket made for lift
- Extended rear brake line with stainless braided line
- Whiteline LCA bushings
- Rokmen Trail Series lower trailing arms
- Strongflex lateral arm (panhard bar) bushings
- Strongflex upper trailing arm bushings

Wheels:
- 17x7 et+15 2017 4Runner wheels
- 1" hub centric spacers
- 255/75R17 Goodyear Duratrac
- 16x8 et-10 Level 8 MK6's
- No spacer
- 285/75R16 Falken Wildpeak AT/3

Exterior:
- Morimoto D2 projectors retrofit with 5k Morimoto HID’s
- Panamera 2.0 DRL LED projector shrouds with Switchback LEDs
- Satoshi grille mod
- Sherpa Matterhorn MKII roof rack w/ 38" X6S light bar, MaxTraxx mount, & Hi-Lift mount
- Running board delete (sliders to come soon)
- Slim window visors
- ARB 8x8 aluminum case awning w/ tent add-on

Interior:
- RX8 leather front seat conversion
- Leatherique black leather dye for rear seats
- Black carpet replacement throughout
- Gray seatbelt swap from another 3rd Gen
- WeatherTech mats
- Full color conversion to satin black interior with light gray upper half
- Led bulb conversion for HVAC and gauge cluster
- Diff lock button light-up mod
- Clock mod so green matches the green led in HVAC controls
- Rear storage box/camp kitchen built by McKinsey Craft, modded by me to include black carpet dye, locking 36" sliders, & Tembo Tusk XL fridge slider w/ cutting board attachment
- Sherpa rear cargo base (removed the carpet underneath and it works perfect with the box)
- Rago rear racks (botched the **** out of the install)
- Raingler full ceiling net (not installed and not really impressed with the non-existent customer service nor their install guide - probably going to install soon)

Electronics:
- Pioneer AVH1440-NEX
- Alpine rear flip-down TV
- Midland Micro GMRS w/ stubby antenna
- Uniden CB w/ 4' Firestik

Some progress pics I've had sitting around and from posts on here:










Last edited by Fiffa; 01-24-2021 at 01:07 PM.
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Old 11-22-2020, 11:29 AM #2
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I love the cargo nets on the rear windows, I'll definitely be doing that to mine! Also, I'm curious as to how you're liking the deck plate mod. I've heard some people being unhappy with the results... Either way if it makes it sound better I'm interested.
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Old 11-22-2020, 01:15 PM #3
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I'm curious as to how you're liking the deck plate mod. I've heard some people being unhappy with the results... Either way if it makes it sound better I'm interested.
I put the plate back in, if that's any indication, lol. It sounds cool on flats, but it was deafening on hills... and there's a lot of those around these parts. Additionally, I felt like my performance took a hit with the plate off. That's most likely placebo, but the motor just feels like it has better pick-up when the flow has more restriction.

It's been a year since the plate went back in, so I've been curious about how I'd feel with it back out again. I plan to start today, so who knows where my mind will be at now?!
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Old 11-23-2020, 03:35 PM #4
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Out with the old...


In with the new...


Put some 4th gen 5160's in to keep up with the 210v's. When sourcing these, I looked at the long travel 3rd gen 5100's and found out they were just stock length 4th gen shocks (33-187174). After that revelation it was easy to figure out that the 5160's were going to work just the same!

33-187174 ("long travel" 3rd gen/standard travel 4th gen 5100's):
Collapsed Length (IN): 14.91
Extended Length (IN): 23.5

25-227611 (4th gen standard travel 5160's)
Collapsed Length (IN) 14.83
Extended Length (IN) 23.5

The base mount is wider than the 5100's, but the bushing is a different design, so they ended up having roughly a similar gap between the mount post on the axle and bolt (~1/2"). The 5160's are perfect (so far) for these springs! Firm to the point where it got rid of most of the body roll that came with the 5100's after the sway bar deletes, but soaks up all of the road still. Can't wait to test them in the trails this weekend!
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Last edited by Fiffa; 11-23-2020 at 05:04 PM.
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Old 11-23-2020, 03:42 PM #5
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Those are some comfy looking seats! Really digging the black on black interior too! What did you use to make all the plastics black? Any plans to change the headliner to black as well?
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Old 11-23-2020, 04:13 PM #6
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Those are some comfy looking seats! Really digging the black on black interior too! What did you use to make all the plastics black? Any plans to change the headliner to black as well?
Danke! I believe the previous owner said he used Hi-Tech plastic paint for the panels. For the headliner, I was thinking about doing a fabric wrap. The gray looks nice, but it also looks gunky from the dye. TBH, once I put the Raingler full net in, you won't see much of it anyway because I'll have camp blankets
and towels stuffed up there.
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Old 11-26-2020, 09:52 AM #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fiffa View Post
Out with the old...
Put some 4th gen 5160's in to keep up with the 210v's...
Curious your thoughts on these springs. First time I have seen them. I actually dont see that part number for the 3rd gen on their site.
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Old 11-26-2020, 12:49 PM #8
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Curious your thoughts on these springs. First time I have seen them. I actually dont see that part number for the 3rd gen on their site.
These are actually Land Cruiser front coils, lol. After adding the roof rack, rear storage/kitchen, and accessories the OME 2890's were struggling to the point where I was hitting the bumpstops on the most minor stuff. I wanted to have a progressive spring to help with the new full-time weight and the occasional extra weight (camping, hauling, etc.), so I got to searching on here and came across this thread:

**Rear Coil Spring Discussion - The Perfect 3rd Gen Rear Spring**

This picture from ClimbsTrees (page 11) is what did it for me:


The actual part number you want to look for is "C59-210v". They slip right into the perches and as my dumbass found out only after the fact, release your e-brake when installing in conjunction with removing the bottom shock mount and you should be able to slip these in without compressors. I'll be taking them (and the 5160's, which are a match made in heaven so far!) out to the trails for some mild abuse this weekend, so I'll report back on here with my final thoughts.
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Old 11-27-2020, 11:44 AM #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fiffa View Post
These are actually Land Cruiser front coils, lol. After adding the roof rack, rear storage/kitchen, and accessories the OME 2890's were struggling to the point where I was hitting the bumpstops on the most minor stuff. I wanted to have a progressive spring to help with the new full-time weight and the occasional extra weight (camping, hauling, etc.), so I got to searching on here and came across this thread:

**Rear Coil Spring Discussion - The Perfect 3rd Gen Rear Spring**

This picture from ClimbsTrees (page 11) is what did it for me:


The actual part number you want to look for is "C59-210v". They slip right into the perches and as my dumbass found out only after the fact, release your e-brake when installing in conjunction with removing the bottom shock mount and you should be able to slip these in without compressors. I'll be taking them (and the 5160's, which are a match made in heaven so far!) out to the trails for some mild abuse this weekend, so I'll report back on here with my final thoughts.
What do you think of the valving in the 4th Gen 5160's combined with the new springs?
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Old 11-27-2020, 02:38 PM #10
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What do you think of the valving in the 4th Gen 5160's combined with the new springs?
Compared to the 3rd gen 5100's (standard length) they are exactly what the springs needed! I took the sway bars out at the same time I put in the 210v's and the truck would lean hard before putting in the 5160's. Since installing, the roll is minor and everything feels really planted without the ride being harsh at all.

I'm putting in JBA UCA's today, so I'm hoping to get a little more out of the road feel up front to go with how great the back is now.
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Old 11-29-2020, 01:30 PM #11
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The JBA's are in and boy were those press-in UBJ adapters a project!

I opted for the "beat them the **** out" option when it came to removing the old UBJ's despite them originally appearing to be good still. It was great therapy, but this is how they looked when I was finished:



Getting these guys in was a nightmare! And yes, that is my blood, lol!



Like the bonehead I am, I forgot to pick up emery cloth on the numerous trips to Home Depot that were made during this install. It probably would've made things easier to get the lingering corrosion out before trying to put the adapters in.



I was using a Dewalt 1/2" impact and it took everything that it had, along with a fair amount of mallet smashing, to get the ball joint press to work; I'm glad I opted to buy it instead of trying to return a loaner that got the shit beat out of the bottom!

The end result made it all worth it though!



The stock UCA's looked like their bushings were original and were no longer doing their job well. The JBA's have nearly eliminated the bump-steer that I had been feeling and it's like the front end definitely has more freedom on dips and bumps. All she needs is an alignment and this new ABS issue figured out! I need to diagnose the ABS engaging during corner and low speed braking. Pretty sure I yanked on the drivers side wire a little too much because I couldn't get the sensor removed from the spindle easily and didn't feel like messing with it any more than I already did. Worst case, I buy new sensors because they look easy enough to replace.
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Old 11-30-2020, 09:13 PM #12
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I need to diagnose the ABS engaging during corner and low speed braking. Pretty sure I yanked on the drivers side wire a little too much because I couldn't get the sensor removed from the spindle easily and didn't feel like messing with it any more than I already did. Worst case, I buy new sensors because they look easy enough to replace.
Make sure you're holding the sensor in place while you tighten the bolt down, kids! The moment I looked at the passenger side sensor (the only one I was able to remove the other day) today I could see how crooked it was, lol. Pulled it, cleaned it, lubed the o-ring, and put it back in (while holding the sensor side in place)... no more ABS slow speed braking activation!

Got the alignment today and kudos to JBA because the camber was barely off from their shop! This truck drives so good for over 260k miles now!

Next up, new shoes...
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Old 12-09-2020, 01:08 AM #13
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Got new socks and shoes...



Previous
17x7 +15 5th gen 4Runner wheel
1" spacer
255/75R17 Goodyear Duratrac, SL rating

to 16x8 -10 Level 8 MK6
No spacer
285/75R16 Falken Wildpeak AT/3, E rating

NGL, I'm loving the look of these and for the price ($132/ea @ Discount Tire Black Friday deal) I don't mind them getting kissed by the trails. I was going to go with the BGF KM3's, but I keep hearing great stuff about the AT/3's and was going to go that route when I was going to stay with the 4Runner 17's.
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Old 12-15-2020, 02:55 PM #14
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Good


Better


Best


I set out to do "the big 3" the other weekend and was reminded of why local corporate stores suck in the time of COVID. Everywhere around here was out of 4AWG wire and connectors and the 2AWG stuff was really limited. Add to that shit Kicker battery terminals that look nice, but wouldn't secure to the posts and we have the garbage outcome that you see in the second pic. Just a hodgepodge of ill-fitting connections and last-minute parts.

Fast forward to this week (and $250 later) and we have the final result in the last pic. Boy, I love how this turned out! I opted to crimp instead of solder because the pellets I bought for the 4AWG ring connectors didn't fill up the wire area enough for me to feel confident. I actually ended up using the 6AWG connectors with the 4AWG wire, which yielded excellently secure results. Also got a Blue Sea 12-terminal fuse block because I want to add to more lighting and also clean up the lighting wires that already exist (that will be a whole other project as I've learned). The 1/8" ABS sheet I used for the block and breakers will need to be reinforced because it's already bowing down around the breakers.

After seeing how much wire tension was on the first iteration, I knew the final product would need to have bends on the connections to help them navigate around the Group 34 battery. What I found worked was to put the flat of the connector into a vice and use a thicker screwdriver shaft to apply pressure at the crimp. That gave good leverage to bend without causing any issues with the wire. After that, add the mesh sleeve and shrink tubes.

Now I've got room for my incoming ditch lights, scene lights, and any other electronics I can find dash space for.
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Old 12-26-2020, 04:05 PM #15
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Following along as it looks like you're doing just about everything I either need or want to do as well! Just on the other side of the river to ya in east Vancouver/Camas area, picked up my 2000 a bit over a year ago with 127k on it but haven't had any extra time/money to tackle things and still trying to research what's what as I come from the land of lowered cars!

The new battery/fuse box setup looks good! I was just looking under my hood trying to see what's possible, I bought the same fuse box years ago for my Subaru I need to dig out and make a bracket for, didn't know if there was enough clearance on top of the factory fuse box but looks like you had no issues there!
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