11-26-2020, 10:22 PM
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#1
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Engine oil flush major problem ???
Yesterday I did an engine flush, using motor medic engine flush, on my '96 T4R V-6. , 196,000 K miles. As required, I started to run the engine for 5 minutes. However, at 2 minutes into flush, the "check engine" light came on. I continued to run the engine. At 3 plus minutes the engine stopped dead an would not restart. Now, I have also had some confusing electrical problems so that may be why it would not restart. I ran out of daylight and today (Thanksgiving) I didn't look at my 4 runner.
Question : with a stone cold engine, and doing an engine flush, how likely is it that the engine locked up after running it for only 3 minutes ???? Yes, the dipstick indicated the engine had enough oil.
PS: I recently bought this used 4 runner and I have no info on any previous problems.
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11-26-2020, 11:02 PM
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#2
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That sucks. I believe you were warned against doing this in your thread a few weeks back. Most would agree it is not needed on the 4 runner.
Seriously, hope it turns out ok. Did you ever get that low oil pressure issue sorted? You were going to measure your idle oil pressure, what did you find?
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Last edited by Kanoe; 11-26-2020 at 11:11 PM.
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11-26-2020, 11:54 PM
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#3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kanoe
That sucks. I believe you were warned against doing this in your thread a few weeks back. Most would agree it is not needed on the 4 runner.
Seriously, hope it turns out ok. Did you ever get that low oil pressure issue sorted? You were going to measure your idle oil pressure, what did you find?
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I had a mechanic check the oil pressure. he said it was ok.
I have a lot of sludge in the engine, which is why I did an engine flush.
Do you think I might have caused the engine to seize up after running it for only 3 minutes ?
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11-27-2020, 12:29 AM
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#4
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What CEL code exists? This is the center of the truth universe....
I used the same stuff many times, on many different vehicles, it never caused any issues.
So you say it won't start, does that mean it is turning over smoothly/easily?
Could just be a Coincidence the flush and engine died at the same time...
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11-27-2020, 12:32 AM
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#5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jgue467
What CEL code exists? This is the center of the truth universe....
I used the same stuff many times, on many different vehicles, it never caused any issues.
So you say it won't start, does that mean it is turning over smoothly/easily?
Could just be a Coincidence the flush and engine died at the same time...
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It's highly unlikely any off the shelf motor flush did any actual harm. Nothing really in that stuff but atf/heavy detergents. He said he had electrical issues, I would bet at least a dollar that his engine is fine and he's got electrical problems keeping the truck from running.
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11-27-2020, 12:49 AM
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#6
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@ Traveler74
, Hang in there Bud.
Did engine stop all of a sudden like with electrical problem no spark etc.
Did engine start to labor slow down gradually, try turning engine over at crank bolt. Just thinking. Codes would help tell the tale.
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11-27-2020, 02:36 AM
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#7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96RedRunner
@ Traveler74
, Hang in there Bud.
Did engine stop all of a sudden like with electrical problem no spark etc.
Did engine start to labor slow down gradually, try turning engine over at crank bolt. Just thinking. Codes would help tell the tale.
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Hmm. Ok. I'll try to explain. I'm no mechanic but i'll do my best.
I think that in addition to other issues, I probably have a dirty throttle body. Prior to doing the motor flush, I could start the truck and let it idle BUT after a few minutes it would shudder and die.
So, when I was in the middle of doing the engine flush (with motor medic), I had to keep the rev's up a tad, (around 2,000 RPM's). At about 3 min into the flush, the rev's began to drop and even though I pressed harder on the gas pedal, the rev's continued to quickly drop. Then it just stopped. I was a bit surprised that when I tried to immediately restart the truck, nothing happened. no audible click. Nothing. Hmm
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11-27-2020, 02:37 AM
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#8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spartacus
If it is not electrical and you really have hydrolocked your motor.Take the spark plugs out spin the motor by hand. Dry the cylinder by sucking the water out as much as you can. Crank the motor aND more liquid will shoot out. once you get the liquid out of the cylinders try firing it up after cleaning and drying the spark plugs. If the motor doesn't have major damage it should fire up. Folks have restarted their trucks after water crossings using this method. Good luck.
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I have never heard of a "hydrolock". That is new to me.
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11-27-2020, 02:41 AM
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#9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Traveler74
... Then it just stopped. I was a bit surprised that when I tried to immediately restart the truck, nothing happened. no audible click. Nothing...
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I would check battery connections and then test the battery's voltage. Should be at least 12.6 but better over 13.
I don't think the engine flush and engine stopping running are related....
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2001 Limited 4WD - 346+K - SunfireRed\Thunder Cloud; - 265/75/16 Michelin A/T2s - Fat Pat's 1.5" BL - StopTech ANGLED rotors - In series 699 trans cooler, New Yota1 transmission, All new OEM suspension front to rear.
Last edited by jgue467; 11-27-2020 at 02:42 AM.
Reason: details
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11-27-2020, 03:01 AM
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#10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Traveler74
I have never heard of a "hydrolock". That is new to me.
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My bad posted the response to a hydrolocked motor question by mistake in your thread. deleted my post.
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11-27-2020, 10:37 AM
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#11
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What codes are being thrown? That's a major key to the puzzle and it sounds like you have a gremlin, not a busted motor
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11-27-2020, 11:02 AM
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#12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jgue467
I don't think the engine flush and engine stopping running are related....
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...but they can be. Sometimes using an engine flush on an older vehicle can release large chunks of material. These can clog oil galleries and returns, and in worse-case scenarios, the oil pickup. Any of which can starve the engine of oil.
It is concerning that OP said at 3 minutes he had to add more and more gas to maintain the RPM. This says to me that there was more resistance inside the engine - and points to oil starvation.
A better strategy for "lots of sludge" would have been several frequent changes of both the oil and the filter, as was mentiioned in the other thread. But at this point it's crossed fingers that it can be turned.
So right now we are waiting for OP to report back on
Codes
Does it turn over
Can you turn it over via crankshaft
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11-27-2020, 11:24 AM
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#13
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No klick at start sounds to me like the engine behaved the exact same way it did before the flush
You need to check for power at the small wire on the starter with the key in start. A test light is good fo this check.
If you have power at the small wire in start next it to test the big wire of the starter.
If both have power in start it’s your starter.
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11-27-2020, 11:35 AM
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#14
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I highly doubt a starter would throw a CEL or up and die while the engine is running after behaving 100% normally, let alone stop the engine, but worth a shot. Maybe give it a few whacks. Once the gremlin is released they travel far and wide.
My gremlin started with a dirty MAF and quickly went to my knock sensors and O2 sensors.
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Last edited by Devbot; 11-27-2020 at 11:38 AM.
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11-27-2020, 11:45 AM
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#15
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I would see if I could try to turn the engine to see if the crankshaft still moves a little bit via harmonic balancer. You may need a socket and a breaker bar as you'll be working against the compression of the motor.
Once I can rule out the crank still spins freely, I'll then move to electrical troubleshooting.
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