Just had same thing happen when I went to do inner tie rods this morning. Both sides had fluid. If anyone out there thinking about doing them do yourself a favor and open up the outer clamps first to check for fluid before ordering parts.

Front end is all back together! Took her for a spin around the neighborhood and the front end is quite tight. No more wandering around down the road. I like.

Before tightening the control arm bolts I jacked that corner of the truck up until it just lifted from the stands. It's my experience that you want those bushings loaded when you tighten everything.

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One lesson learned here. You can't get a torque wrench on the rear LCA bolt with the steering rack in place. If I did it again, I'd either buy a 22mm crows foot or leave the rack loose until the LCA's were torqued. Instead I torqued the fronts, then tightened the rears to "about the same."

One more look at that nice rack.

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You can see a couple of things here... the paint pen I used to mark the new OTRE's to be about the same length as the old ones. Everyone knows that trick. Also a couple of JIC OH SHIT jack stands under the cross member for working on the truck when one corner is on a jack. The actual stands are further back.

Now for a quick rant about dealers. I got a deal on my steering rack through a friend. As a result, I chose the same dealer for those bolts I needed. It was a $15 lesson learned... heads up to my fellow Seattleites. I paid too much by going to Rodland in Everett.

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I also printed a torque spec checklist. This comes in handy when you're going "did I remember to..."

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I feel like I have to say my handwriting isn't that bad. The list was hanging on the wall at the back of my workbench when I did my write in, lol.

Looking happy as a clam. And I made a few dollars selling the brush guard.

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And parts for the next project came in...

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I feel like I got a shipment of drugs in, lol.

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And lastly I arranged for a buddy of mine to do my valve cover gaskets. He's done several already and I just don't feel like digging into it myself. For $250 or so labor I'll write the check this one time. Going to call my alignment guy on Monday to get that and mount/balance scheduled.

Now I'm pondering shocks. I don't want to lift it so maybe Bilstein 4600 or the old faithful 5100. At <$100/corner I figure it's a smart choice. If I have time tomorrow I may look at the fog lights. I think the PO butchered the harness for the brush guard lights. Might need to source a couple of plugs and then some amber bulbs.

Come to think of it, bushing requirements may be somewhat difference! 4R=flex, Miata=firmness... (I used ES bushings on my son's Eclipse when we did his rear suspension) Made a noticeable difference, car felt more planted. I imagine rubber would be more flexible...
Definitely let us know how it drives once you get it back on the pavement... hopefully, it feels like a new truck!! I think my reluctance to do this job, comes from the fact, that rack is so expensive! I have a supplier I've bought Toyota parts from up here in Canada, and I was surprised to find the factory rack (4425035042) was listed as "unavailable" !! I have ordered parts from Camelback, but haven't done this in a while since duties were slapped on them a couple of years ago, importing parts... Camelback has it listed for $609 USD... that's $761CDN crap... before duties/taxes... I guess I better start saving!!!!

Poly bushings are fine when it's a linear up and down motion like our LCA's. They become a problem when more twist and flex is needed. I think the fact that Whiteline only press fit a small portion of the sleeve allow for some twist.

Got the tires mounted on the new wheels.

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And that was done by my alignment guy.

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I've trusted this guy to do my track car alignments and tires so why not the beater. He did an awesome job as always.

Perspective matters.

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Last pic with old setup:

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That new new:

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The 5th gen wheels really look great on here. I'm so glad I went with this choice. I wish I had gone a bit larger on the tires but this was too good of a deal. ($150 wheels, $350 tires including a brand new 5th tire, $60 mount/balance for $560 all in). I lost a half inch in tire diameter but I can live with that.

Oh... and isn't this a dog hauler? He really loves that rear window...

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Starting Friday afternoon, I drove from the Seattle area to the Denver area. Not sure of the actual weight but I'm guessing 400+ pounds in the cargo area and 50-100 on the rear carrier. Up and over all the mountain passes running AC occasionally and probably averaging 80mph I netted about 18 mpg. Not bad for the old truck... just wish I had a better seat, lol.



May be time for a suspension refresh. The springs popped back to life once it was unloaded but I just feel bad for the old girl.

Cross posting everywhere, lol.

The variable rate springs from Dobinson’s are highly recommended. Nice when unloaded, but resist squat on road trips with weight. I carry 4 people, 4 mtn bikes and gear and it sits level. It will be a 2.5” lift though. I have ‘99 talls in the front the lowest 5100 position which is about 1” lift. So I have slightly more rake built into it. But I carry a constant 100- 200#. Less in winter without the bike rack. It looks good




This pic has a 100# rack, and a built out platform/drawers with gear in it 150# + and not sure what was in the roof box.




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