[Pj Benn]

^ thanks for the info on the hazards.

Dev- rear window and rear window defrost are 2 different buttons. I’m gonna assume defrost uses same bulb though since hazard and defrost are same button type.

[Skulking]

Originally Posted by Pj Benn

^ thanks for the info on the hazards.

Dev- rear window and rear window defrost are 2 different buttons. I’m gonna assume defrost uses same bulb though since hazard and defrost are same button type.

Rear defrost, ECT, and rear window share 2 bulbs. Both are Neo Wedge T3's. I think the rear window switch has it's own and then rear defrost and ECT share the other one, but it might be the rear defrost by itself with the ECT and rear window sharing the other.

The only things in the center that wouldn't be a Neo Wedge T3 as far as I know are the ash tray light (I believe this is a 74, but it's been a long time since I did this), the light around the cigarette lighter (Bulb is built into the connector so needs an OEM replacement part), and if you have the auto climate control the back light for that is two Neo Wedge T4's (The climate controls knobs and buttons are two separate Neo Wedge T3's in addition to the T4's for the back light).

[Devbot]

Originally Posted by Skulking

Rear defrost, ECT, and rear window share 2 bulbs. Both are Neo Wedge T3's. I think the rear window switch has it's own and then rear defrost and ECT share the other one, but it might be the rear defrost by itself with the ECT and rear window sharing the other.

The only things in the center that wouldn't be a Neo Wedge T3 as far as I know are the ash tray light (I believe this is a 74, but it's been a long time since I did this), the light around the cigarette lighter (Bulb is built into the connector so needs an OEM replacement part), and if you have the auto climate control the back light for that is two Neo Wedge T4's (The climate controls knobs and buttons are two separate Neo Wedge T3's in addition to the T4's for the back light).

Only Limiteds came with neowedges in the climate controls since it's one integrated unit. Every other car has 74s there, one in the middle and top right corner

[Devbot]

Originally Posted by Skulking

The hazard does have a light. It's also a Neo Wedge T3 bulb, but I don't recommend swapping it to an LED. The bulb doesn't point out towards the front, it points 90 degrees off from the front of the switch (It points up if you are looking at the dash rather than towards you), so an incandescent works fine in there, but an LED will be much dimmer because most of the light is going in the wrong direction. When I did mine I tried swapping it to an LED, and it was almost impossible to tell that it was illuminated. Even with the incandescent it's not bright.

Got in my car this morning, gave my dash a good smack like the Fonz and it came on, thanks for the tip

[Bad Luck]

I'm looking to replace my bulbs that are out but want to stick with incandescent. Does anyone have any recommendations on where to get good quality and affordable incandescent bulbs?

[Devbot]

Trying to do these today, how do you know which way to put in the bulbs? To be more specific, how do I know both what side of the socket and which trace on the circuit is positive/negative? It doesn't really matter how well the socket tests on a pair of alligator clips if you put it in backwards, and not all traces all labeled.

[Doc3g]

Originally Posted by Devbot

Trying to do these today, how do you know which way to put in the bulbs? To be more specific, how do I know both what side of the socket and which trace on the circuit is positive/negative? It doesn't really matter how well the socket tests on a pair of alligator clips if you put it in backwards, and not all traces all labeled.

with the cluster on your workbench as I have it in the picture (where Toyota is upside down), all of the sockets should be seated so that you can read them, ie:

Toshiba
V-2

Imgur: The magic of the Internet

So, to clarify, the bulb sockets should be inserted so that when read, they are the opposite of the Toyota writing. With the Turn Signal bays at the top is another way to describe it. In this position, you should be able to read Toshiba on the socket.

[bmwahba46]

bookmarked this and saved, thank you!

[Doc3g]

Originally Posted by Bad Luck

I'm looking to replace my bulbs that are out but want to stick with incandescent. Does anyone have any recommendations on where to get good quality and affordable incandescent bulbs?

Honestly, if I was going to stick with incandescents, I would probably just spring for them at the stealership. My set lasted 23 years and about 90% of them were still going strong, so it's hard to argue with that sort of quality.

[Doc3g]

Originally Posted by stieg

very nice write up, i remember when i did my swap (just the 3 backround in cluster, climate, and keyring/cig) using like 3 different pages to keep cross referencing after reading so many pages they blend together. though i need to replace my bulb for my cig light, i think i used that buld somewhere else, and when putting in the old bulb i broke it on accident and now it doesn't work at all. think that one was the same as the backround in the gauge if we wanna make this a master led thread.

Replacing my domes next time i get in the car. Did you use the Vled on the cluster? i feel like i dont have hotspots until its completely night then it kinda shows (or a picture really brings it out).

If you mean the ring around the cigarette lighter, that is actually a built-in bulb and needs to be ordered from the dealership. The other option, which I'm taking, is simply buying a bulb holder for a 74 base and doing a little engineering to replace that factory bulb socket with an aftermarket one so I don't have to deal with the limitations of having an incandescent.

My Cluster backlights are VLED's. I tried the SuperBrights for fun and they definitely have hot spots. The output and angle of dispersion on the VLED's are simply better. If I could only afford VLEDs in one spot, it would be the cluster backlights.

[Skulking]

Originally Posted by Doc3g

If you mean the ring around the cigarette lighter, that is actually a built-in bulb and needs to be ordered from the dealership. The other option, which I'm taking, is simply buying a bulb holder for a 74 base and doing a little engineering to replace that factory bulb socket with an aftermarket one so I don't have to deal with the limitations of having an incandescent.

My Cluster backlights are VLED's. I tried the SuperBrights for fun and they definitely have hot spots. The output and angle of dispersion on the VLED's are simply better. If I could only afford VLEDs in one spot, it would be the cluster backlights.

The part number for the bulb that goes around the cigarette lighter is 84999-10250. When I bought it from the dealer I think it was around $7. I actually have the old one disassembled, and I'm looking at how it might be possible to convert it to an LED. I think the hardest part about adapting it is going to be getting the LED to sit at an appropriate depth to illuminate the ring properly.

[Doc3g]

Originally Posted by Skulking

Rear defrost, ECT, and rear window share 2 bulbs. Both are Neo Wedge T3's. I think the rear window switch has it's own and then rear defrost and ECT share the other one, but it might be the rear defrost by itself with the ECT and rear window sharing the other.

The only things in the center that wouldn't be a Neo Wedge T3 as far as I know are the ash tray light (I believe this is a 74, but it's been a long time since I did this), the light around the cigarette lighter (Bulb is built into the connector so needs an OEM replacement part), and if you have the auto climate control the back light for that is two Neo Wedge T4's (The climate controls knobs and buttons are two separate Neo Wedge T3's in addition to the T4's for the back light).

For clarification, here is the entire panel disassembled so that it should be clear which bulbs light up various sections:

[Doc3g]

Originally Posted by Skulking

The part number for the bulb that goes around the cigarette lighter is 84999-10250. When I bought it from the dealer I think it was around $7. I actually have the old one disassembled, and I'm looking at how it might be possible to convert it to an LED. I think the hardest part about adapting it is going to be getting the LED to sit at an appropriate depth to illuminate the ring properly.

It's actually super easy. Just grab a T1.75 wedge base socket with pigtails.

T1-3/4 Wedge Base Socket - Wired | Super Bright LEDs

It literally just slips right into the old spot where the prewired bulb went. I cut the adapter off the stock wiring, spliced the new base socket in, and dropped in an amber led (74).

[Skulking]

Originally Posted by Doc3g

It's actually super easy. Just grab a T1.75 wedge base socket with pigtails.

T1-3/4 Wedge Base Socket - Wired | Super Bright LEDs

It literally just slips right into the old spot where the prewired bulb went. I cut the adapter off the stock wiring, spliced the new base socket in, and dropped in an amber led (74).

Thanks. That should be much easier than trying to make something work in the old housing. I had gotten far enough to determine that the old bulb was a T-1 or T-1.75 Wire terminal LED, but options for replacement LED's in that size are limited, and I was only finding stuff that was 1 or 2 lumen output. Being able to put a 74 there should work much better.

[Devbot]

Originally Posted by Doc3g

It's actually super easy. Just grab a T1.75 wedge base socket with pigtails.

T1-3/4 Wedge Base Socket - Wired | Super Bright LEDs

It literally just slips right into the old spot where the prewired bulb went. I cut the adapter off the stock wiring, spliced the new base socket in, and dropped in an amber led (74).

Tbh I just ripped it out with some small needlenose pliers and jammed the LED in. Works totally fine, no need to be more complex than that Though I probably would've done this if I saw it at the time
Looks so much better without color